To turn or not to turn

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MDarius

I break stuff.
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Joined
Apr 10, 2006
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2,055
Location
Bountiful, UT
Should you have your rotors turned every time you change your brake pads? If not, when?
 
"my spin' . . .

Run CLEAN finger nail over rotor....if not too scratched up (like not as bas as a viyl recod) it's OK
Look at rotor, any gouges ? 'ruts' more deep than a paper match stick is thick ? No...OK to go

Before you tear-down; with tire off, rotate hub while looking at pads, , ,do you see any rotor wobble ( e.g., warped) No ? good to go

Bigger issue : rotor thickness...even a 'beautifully smooth' rotor that's paper thin is no good.

FWIW, on my 60, front rotors turned once,,,,at 300K miles, if ever needs again, will have to replace.

If in doubt: turn e'm or replace 'em....
 
Yeah....I think my wife just paid $350 for a 20 minute $80 job...and shortened the life span of the rotors by having them turned unnecessarily. Chock it up to education. Expensive lesson though.
 
So I just called the repair shop to see if I could stop them...$150 for a set of pads! ''Had to order them in because I didn't have any in stock.'' I was too late. He says they turn the rotors on every brake job to ensure the pads start with a smooth surface, otherwise the rotors cut grooves in to the pads.

Well, unless the rotors meet the criteria outlined above that define them as being bad (I agree with you by the way, and think that's a pretty good standard.) whatever they do to the pads is negligible. He says they typically turn 0.003'' from the surface. I suppose that's not so bad.
 
Yeah....I think my wife just paid $350 for a 20 minute $80 job...and shortened the life span of the rotors by having them turned unnecessarily. Chock it up to education. Expensive lesson though.


That is why I do the job myself.

To answer your 1st post question, and I'm sure I'll get flamed for this but, if I'm not getting the shudder when I step on the brakes - the rotors don't get turned. I don't care what they look like. I just replace the pads, pm the rest of the system - wheel cyl., calipers and bolts, slides and generally check it out. Rotors are tough, but you need to take care of them - proper and balanced lug not torque and watch your braking on long grades so they don't over heat and warp. Depending on how close they are now to minimum will determine if they warp. By this I mean, you may have rotors, now, that will warp the first time they get heated up.
That happened to me right after I got my 80. The local stealership where I bought it from did a "brake job" on it as part of the detailing to sell it. New pads & turned rotors and the first time over the mountain pass, where the brakes had a chance to really get used, they warped. I pulled the front end apart myself and took the rotors to a good shop to be turned. They called me and said they were at the minimum and needed replacing. So, like you, yourself said - an expensive lesson. I'd keep my receipt and if you have problems in the near future, go talk to the owner of that shop.
 
I only mess with the rotors when they feel "wobbly" or warped, and then I don't turn them, I replace them.
 
I don't turn rotors on any vehicle. If the rotors need to be replaced I replace them. The thinner the rotors are, the easier they warp.

FWIW, front brakes on an 80 Series takes about 30 minutes if you take your time and clean everything, including jacking up and R/R the tires. It's very easy. Use OEM brake pads.
 
I never turn them either. When it shakes I replace them.
 
I don't turn rotors on any vehicle. If the rotors need to be replaced I replace them. The thinner the rotors are, the easier they warp.

FWIW, front brakes on an 80 Series takes about 30 minutes if you take your time and clean everything, including jacking up and R/R the tires. It's very easy. Use OEM brake pads.

X2. IMO, turning rotors is a waste of time. If they need to be addressed, they get replaced. Simple as that.
 
Just replaced the rear pads (pep boys) on the 80 for $28 buck. Napa sells the rotors for about 45 bucks each new. I don't turn them because I could always put new pads for 25 bucks if they wear faster than normal because of uneven surface. So I vote not to turn. Turning it would cost money for labor which could be put into new rotors. If a turned rotor warps because of being thin then it basically is replacing the pads and the rotors again which is basically doubling the work of just replacing the pad.
I think that automotive repairmen/serviceman want flat surfaces on rotors (turned or new) because they don't want you to come back and have to the job twice especially if the customer is going to pay for turning or new rotors anyway. Of course if you personally did it, it wouldn't hurt you to "redo the job" if something wears down prematurely.
 
Just in...

Just got these in the mail today, and they are going in the truck tomorrow! The mounted set is already running in my other Cruiser. :bounce:
New rotor1.jpg
Drilled rotor after.jpg
 
I'll bite; what, where and how much are those rotors, my braking rumble is starting to spill my drink and I have a couple bucks for PM items (100 pads, rotors, oil and filter are due...)
 
cool, thanks for the link, I may have to got that route for that 'Hi Performance';) edge!
 

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