To Lock or Not to Lock? ... or, rather, are you Regeared and not Locked? (1 Viewer)

[tpizza01]

Ok folks here's my bit.

I have a 95 with 175k miles on it. Stock gears and 315s. I feel it on long ascents and it downshifts often. It's slow on acceleration unless I mash the pedal.

I've been wanting to regear for the last few years and this WILL happen but $$$ is obviously the main concern.

The big question is, do I lock the front and rear while I regear or wait and do it and do it another time if at all?

Here is why this is a question and my views on it all:

1) By only regearing I am essentially cutting my job cost in half from about 6k to 3k.

2) I do not crawl with this and have not done any crazy offroading that would put me in a position that would require me to be locked. I had an FJ Cruiser that had the rear locker in it, and I only used it a couple of times - and it probably wasn't even necessary then.

3) My plan for this truck has really always to make it a trip vehicle - camping, light offroading - but again no crawling or heavy wheeling.

4) I feel like it is pretty capable the way it is even with stock gears, larger tires, and weighted.

5) I understand that locking helps with resale, but as of now, I have no plans on selling it.

6) I also understand that going into the front to lock is harder to do than the rear (if I wait).


So those are just a couple of things that come to mind when I mull this over. The money is a big issue, and I could wait until I have it, but in the meantime, I feel like I am killing this truck by driving it this way.

SO:

IS there anyone who is regeared and not locked? IF so, how has that been for you?

or

What are all your thoughts on any of the above - lock it now or lock it later if at all?

Thanks in Advance!!!

 

[COYS]

I'd mount 33" tires, enjoy all the benefits of that while saving up to do gears, locker, etc all in one shot (or stash the cash).

 

[White Stripe]

Try manually shifting the automatic on hills rather than leaving it in drive. The 1fz can hold higher rpms no problem. So on big hills downshift the transmission and let it hold speed at the higher rpms and see how it does. It should hold speed fairly well. If your still not content with that then I would do gears only.

 

[LC4LIFE]

My previous 80 was unlocked when I bought it. I ran 33's and installed an ARB in the rear. It went just about anywhere I pointed it, but having always wanted (yearned) for 35's I would do the following if I was in your shoes. Install the 10% UD and 3:1 in the transfer case and an automatic locker in the rear. You would end up with an extremely capable rig at a portion of the price.

 

[ZackR]

Perhaps a good compromise would be a 10% high range underdrive kit for the transfer case and a lunchbox locker for the rear. Plenty capable for the use you describe and significantly less expensive.

 

[LINUS]

CDL switch, pin 7 mod & get a winch.

Then see if you’re exceeding the limits of that.

Unless you’re Mr Wheelspin & lifting tires routinely, the winch is going to be more useful/effective in a “aw $hit” -scenario.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

CDL switch, pin 7 mod & get a winch.

Then see if you’re exceeding the limits of that.

Unless you’re Mr Wheelspin & lifting tires routinely, the winch is going to be more useful/effective in a “aw $hit” -scenario.

Yup, I second this. I really don't see any reason for you to regear OR do lockers. If you aren't getting stuck on the trails you run, you don't need lockers. To clarify, the 7 pin mod will allow you to engage the low gearing in your center diff without locking it. I highly recommend doing this regardless. Anything steep, low range is your friend.

If highway drivability is the issue, I've heard that regearing the center diff is a much cheaper way to go, but I don't know all the pros/cons for that. @Ken in AZ might have some better info for you. I know he did the tcase.

 

[Heckraiser]

Given your description, I would say don't bother with the lockers.

I would also echo some of the other points already made:
1) Use the shifter, leave it in 2nd for long grades. Works well for us high-altitude folks and there are some pretty big hills around here
2) Re-gearing the transfer case may be a cheaper option than the R&P if you decide to regear.

 

[tpizza01]

Try manually shifting the automatic on hills rather than leaving it in drive. The 1fz can hold higher rpms no problem. So on big hills downshift the transmission and let it hold speed at the higher rpms and see how it does. It should hold speed fairly well. If your still not content with that then I would do gears only.

I've gone the 'run it in 2nd' route and I didn't like it. I didn't like holding it that high for that long and have to worry about temps and all of that. I also didn't feel that I gained that much in speed, which sucks going through a pass when there are trucks and others up my a$$ lol

Perhaps a good compromise would be a 10% high range underdrive kit for the transfer case and a lunchbox locker for the rear. Plenty capable for the use you describe and significantly less expensive.

I have not considered the UD kit but will look into that some more. I had also considered doing a posi-kit for the rear - at least to help in winter, which was the last time I had any concern about getting stuck (I'm not getting into that story.)

CDL switch, pin 7 mod & get a winch.

Then see if you’re exceeding the limits of that.

Unless you’re Mr Wheelspin & lifting tires routinely, the winch is going to be more useful/effective in a “aw $hit” -scenario.

I'm familiar with the 7-pin mod and I've heard mixed feelings about it, especially from IPOR who do all of the big work - I trust them also and have been working with them for ten years now on my stuff.

I have a winch so I'm not too concerned with getting out of a situation, I think for me it's more about getting closer to stock rpm all day. I'm probably less concerned with locking but I wanted to hear what others have to say about these two options.

 

[tpizza01]

My previous 80 was unlocked when I bought it. I ran 33's and installed an ARB in the rear. It went just about anywhere I pointed it, but having always wanted (yearned) for 35's I would do the following if I was in your shoes. Install the 10% UD and 3:1 in the transfer case and an automatic locker in the rear. You would end up with an extremely capable rig at a portion of the price.

I'm definitely not gonna go down a tire size with as much life as I have left in these. Plus, I think 35s just look like they belong on this truck.

As I said in my last post, I'm going to look into the UD kit. But any specifics on where, who, or what on any of these things? (the kit, the 3:1, the auto-locker)

 

[tpizza01]

I found the Underdrive kit and looks like it's around $500. Doing this would give me the gear ratio I wanted in the first place it seems.

The 3:1 kit is about $800

and I haven't found an auto locker, but if it is comparable to other lockers, then that is in the 1K+ range.

But even at that - If I just go with the 3:1 and the UD kit, then I am looking at over $1k plus labor, which would be roughly the same amount of time - which would put me at roughly the same cost as the regear.

SO what would be the advantage of doing the UD kit and the 3:1 t-case over regearing the f&r??


Just to clarify also - To regear the diffs I'm looking at about 3k. Add lockers then I'm at 6k.
3k I can do no problem. 4500 which would give me a locker (which I would put up front) and is doable but would be a stretch. BUt 6k is pushing it and would hurt big time.

 

[ZackR]

For the uses you describe the high range underdrive kit is probably all you need. An auto locker is around $300 and can be added later if needed.

The advantage is that the labor is significantly less to install the transfer case underdrive kit rather than a ring and pinion on both axles, plus selectable lockers.

 

[tpizza01]

For the uses you describe the high range underdrive kit is probably all you need. An auto locker is around $300 and can be added later if needed.

The advantage is that the labor is significantly less to install the transfer case underdrive kit rather than a ring and pinion on both axles, plus selectable lockers.

Thanks, Zack. I'm going to look into these options a little more and see what they can do for me. If IPOR can make it work for me then I may just go that route. I appreciate the help!

 

[Tools R Us]

...
and I haven't found an auto locker, but if it is comparable to other lockers, then that is in the 1K+ range.
...

Spartan Locker for Toyota Landcruiser

If you are not really wheeling, likely don't need the crawler gears?

 

[mudgudgeon]

I found the Underdrive kit and looks like it's around $500. Doing this would give me the gear ratio I wanted in the first place it seems.

The 3:1 kit is about $800

and I haven't found an auto locker, but if it is comparable to other lockers, then that is in the 1K+ range.

But even at that - If I just go with the 3:1 and the UD kit, then I am looking at over $1k plus labor, which would be roughly the same amount of time - which would put me at roughly the same cost as the regear.

SO what would be the advantage of doing the UD kit and the 3:1 t-case over regearing the f&r??


Just to clarify also - To regear the diffs I'm looking at about 3k. Add lockers then I'm at 6k.
3k I can do no problem. 4500 which would give me a locker (which I would put up front) and is doable but would be a stretch. BUt 6k is pushing it and would hurt big time.

Your math doesn't add up for me.

3k to regear vs 1k plus labour for tease gears. Worst case you talking 2k.

If you're set on 35s for your use, t-case gears is a good option IMO.

A lunch box locker is a lot cheaper than a full selectable locker.
Cheaper purchase, cheaper install. No compressor, no wiring, no air lines etc

 

[Heckraiser]

3:1 low range not needed for your usage.

 

[tpizza01]

Your math doesn't add up for me.

3k to regear vs 1k plus labour for tease gears. Worst case you talking 2k.

If you're set on 35s for your use, t-case gears is a good option IMO.

A lunch box locker is a lot cheaper than a full selectable locker.
Cheaper purchase, cheaper install. No compressor, no wiring, no air lines etc

Somehow I came up with a few hundred less than the 3k for the UD kit, 3:1 kit and labor included based on my shop's labor costs. I would spring for the few hundred and make that work.

As far as lockers- I like the 'idea' of an auto locker, but I also would rather have control over when I am locked and when I am not. But I may consult the shop on this anyway.

 

[decoco]

For the uses you describe the high range underdrive kit is probably all you need. An auto locker is around $300 and can be added later if needed.

The advantage is that the labor is significantly less to install the transfer case underdrive kit rather than a ring and pinion on both axles, plus selectable lockers.

What is this high range underdrive kit? Is there a write up somewhere?

 

[Tools R Us]

What is this high range underdrive kit? Is there a write up somewhere?

T-Case Gear Sets

 

[Tools R Us]

...
As far as lockers- I like the 'idea' of an auto locker, but I also would rather have control over when I am locked and when I am not. But I may consult the shop on this anyway.

On the AWD '80, having the CDL switch/pin 7 mod and auto locker is almost the same, kinda select-able, works well.