Tire/wheel + TRE issue (2 Viewers)

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WSOPgold2012

WSOPgold2012

MoxieMan
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My tires have rubbed holes into my new TRE boots. Can i simply replace the boots or shld I replace both TREs? Can wait or do it ASAP?

Also... I need 10-15mm wheel spacers. Are spacers ok?

Thanks!
 
I expect you're going to get 40 different answers, so take all of it with a grain of salt.

So, 'thin' sandwich style spacers which use your existing studs run into the issue that the studs aren't really long enough for that. Generally speaking, a half inch (give or take) spacer like you're talking about will *definitely* require new wheel studs to get a safe amount of thread engagement from the lug nuts, and it's not totally clear where you can get some which will definitely fit and not be garbage made from bad steel. Good ones do exist, but I was totally unsatisfied by what I could find in half an hour of research last time I was thinking about spacers.

The main issue is that the hubs on solid axle Toyotas before the 80 series are set up to run ~3.5" backspacing (or +12.5mm offset on the stock 15x6 wheel, or +20-25mm on an 8" or 9" wide wheel), and there are only a handful of bigger wheels on the market that have that little backspacing in a 6x5.5 bolt pattern and a big enough center bore for the front hubs.

Basically, any big box tire store that says they can sell you a wheel that fits is lying.

The 'best' solution to your issue, in my opinion, would be to ditch whatever wheels you have and get some that fit, but that's probably not helpful, so:
- Thin spacers (get some kind of pricey ones, so they're not made of garbage grade aluminum which will fatigue crack from normal use) + longer studs + REALLY CAREFULLY cleaning your TREs, regreasing, and replacing the boots (assuming you haven't put very many miles on them).
- Thick spacers (like 1" to 1.5") with their own studs, but you HAVE to regularly check and retorque everything, otherwise I can't recommend these in good conscience, considering how bad it is to throw a truck tire at someone in traffic; same thing goes for the TREs.
- Cuss out whoever sold you those wheels if they told you they'd fit, and hopefully get your money back. Might work, might not, but they deserve some verbal abuse if they were too lazy to confirm the fit.

If you *did* drive with the effed up boots much, they might already have gotten enough grit to dramatically shorten their life regardless of how clean you get them before reassembly, but if they're tight now, they're safe to clean/reassemble and drive until they actually show signs of wear. Just don't be surprised if it's years earlier than you would have expected.
 
GeologistFelix said:
I expect you're going to get 40 different answers, so take all of it with a grain of salt.

So, 'thin' sandwich style spacers which use your existing studs run into the issue that the studs aren't really long enough for that. Generally speaking, a half inch (give or take) spacer like you're talking about will *definitely* require new wheel studs to get a safe amount of thread engagement from the lug nuts, and it's not totally clear where you can get some which will definitely fit and not be garbage made from bad steel. Good ones do exist, but I was totally unsatisfied by what I could find in half an hour of research last time I was thinking about spacers.

The main issue is that the hubs on solid axle Toyotas before the 80 series are set up to run ~3.5" backspacing (or +12.5mm offset on the stock 15x6 wheel, or +20-25mm on an 8" or 9" wide wheel), and there are only a handful of bigger wheels on the market that have that little backspacing in a 6x5.5 bolt pattern and a big enough center bore for the front hubs.

Basically, any big box tire store that says they can sell you a wheel that fits is lying.

The 'best' solution to your issue, in my opinion, would be to ditch whatever wheels you have and get some that fit, but that's probably not helpful, so:
- Thin spacers (get some kind of pricey ones, so they're not made of garbage grade aluminum which will fatigue crack from normal use) + longer studs + REALLY CAREFULLY cleaning your TREs, regreasing, and replacing the boots (assuming you haven't put very many miles on them).
- Thick spacers (like 1" to 1.5") with their own studs, but you HAVE to regularly check and retorque everything, otherwise I can't recommend these in good conscience, considering how bad it is to throw a truck tire at someone in traffic; same thing goes for the TREs.
- Cuss out whoever sold you those wheels if they told you they'd fit, and hopefully get your money back. Might work, might not, but they deserve some verbal abuse if they were too lazy to confirm the fit.

If you *did* drive with the effed up boots much, they might already have gotten enough grit to dramatically shorten their life regardless of how clean you get them before reassembly, but if they're tight now, they're safe to clean/reassemble and drive until they actually show signs of wear. Just don't be surprised if it's years earlier than you would have expected.
Click to expand...
I very much appreciate your time + reply. Thanks!!

-wheels came with the truck, however the shop i use on the reg suggested the tires. thoughts on that?
-ive hardly driven my rig since the new TREs or at all actually (prlly less than 1000 miles. Can i buy just the boots?

Thanks again!

Chris
 
I've seen TRE boots for sale - I don't know a source at the moment. Maybe try your usual vendors.

1/4" spacers are fine. I have them on mine. Find steel spacers if you can, the Aluminum have been known to crack and break apart when over-torqued.
 
Will these fit my rig??


GeologistFelix said:
I expect you're going to get 40 different answers, so take all of it with a grain of salt.

So, 'thin' sandwich style spacers which use your existing studs run into the issue that the studs aren't really long enough for that. Generally speaking, a half inch (give or take) spacer like you're talking about will *definitely* require new wheel studs to get a safe amount of thread engagement from the lug nuts, and it's not totally clear where you can get some which will definitely fit and not be garbage made from bad steel. Good ones do exist, but I was totally unsatisfied by what I could find in half an hour of research last time I was thinking about spacers.

The main issue is that the hubs on solid axle Toyotas before the 80 series are set up to run ~3.5" backspacing (or +12.5mm offset on the stock 15x6 wheel, or +20-25mm on an 8" or 9" wide wheel), and there are only a handful of bigger wheels on the market that have that little backspacing in a 6x5.5 bolt pattern and a big enough center bore for the front hubs.

Basically, any big box tire store that says they can sell you a wheel that fits is lying.

The 'best' solution to your issue, in my opinion, would be to ditch whatever wheels you have and get some that fit, but that's probably not helpful, so:
- Thin spacers (get some kind of pricey ones, so they're not made of garbage grade aluminum which will fatigue crack from normal use) + longer studs + REALLY CAREFULLY cleaning your TREs, regreasing, and replacing the boots (assuming you haven't put very many miles on them).
- Thick spacers (like 1" to 1.5") with their own studs, but you HAVE to regularly check and retorque everything, otherwise I can't recommend these in good conscience, considering how bad it is to throw a truck tire at someone in traffic; same thing goes for the TREs.
- Cuss out whoever sold you those wheels if they told you they'd fit, and hopefully get your money back. Might work, might not, but they deserve some verbal abuse if they were too lazy to confirm the fit.

If you *did* drive with the effed up boots much, they might already have gotten enough grit to dramatically shorten their life regardless of how clean you get them before reassembly, but if they're tight now, they're safe to clean/reassemble and drive until they actually show signs of wear. Just don't be surprised if it's years earlier than you would have expected.
Click to expand...
as my tires are new im leaning towards replacing the wheels...I dont really understand how it worksan d wondering if my current tires: 33X12.5 R15

would fit these Rims:
www.summitracing.com

U.S. Wheel 046-8860GM U.S. Wheel 046 Series Stealth Crawler Lockring-Style Gunmetal Wheels | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - U.S. Wheel 046 Series Stealth Crawler Lockring-Style Gunmetal Wheels with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Wheels at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
 
I also run 1/4” spacers to clear 4R calipers and wheels.
It’s not tires but the rims, and generally the wheel weights that rip up the boots. You can have a tire shop rebalance the tires without putting weights on the inside of the rim.
 
WSOPgold2012 said:
Will these fit my rig??



as my tires are new im leaning towards replacing the wheels...I dont really understand how it worksan d wondering if my current tires: 33X12.5 R15

would fit these Rims:
www.summitracing.com

U.S. Wheel 046-8860GM U.S. Wheel 046 Series Stealth Crawler Lockring-Style Gunmetal Wheels | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - U.S. Wheel 046 Series Stealth Crawler Lockring-Style Gunmetal Wheels with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Wheels at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
Click to expand...
Those would fit but they are 17” so your current tires wouldn’t fit.
 
WSOPgold2012 said:
these?

www.summitracing.com

U.S. Wheel 046-5760 U.S. Wheel 046 Series Stealth Crawler Lockring-Style Black Wheels | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - U.S. Wheel 046 Series Stealth Crawler Lockring-Style Black Wheels with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Wheels at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
Click to expand...
4" is too much backspacing for a 15" wheel. Those will *probably* hit your TREs. Some wheels with 3.75" BS might fit, almost all with 3.5" or less should fit.

Also, you'll need to have a local/small shop tire guy to get 12.5" wide tires on a 7" wide wheel. It'll work (IMO, better than wider wheels, for offroading), but any national chain store (Les Schwab, Discount Tire, Costco, etc.) is going to look at the suggested wheel widths for your tire, see that it probably says 8.5"-11" in the manufacturer catalog, and refuse to mount them on those wheels for 'liability reasons.'
 
so confusing.... :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
 
forum.ih8mud.com

Wheels that work, part numbers

Lets see if we can get a list of wheels that work and get this added to the FJ60/62 facts section. Please only post if you have PART NUMBER, MANUFACTURER, MODEL, and SIZE of the wheel you have used and it fit without problems. If you had to grind the caliper please note. Example taken...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
WSOPgold2012 said:
so confusing.... :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
Click to expand...
It's pretty simple. You need wheels that stick in towards your axle 3.5" or less (AKA backspacing), and that are wide enough for your tires (unless you can go somewhere that won't complain about wide tires on narrow wheels, obviously).

So, look for 15x8, 15x9 (rare), and 15x10 (tons of them), and 3.5" or less backspacing.

Or, deal with spacers, or go to a ridiculous amount of trouble to put longer hubs from an 80/Tundra/etc. on your axles so you can run more commonly available wheels (also, bigger brakes, so it's not totally insane).
 
GeologistFelix said:
It's pretty simple. You need wheels that stick in towards your axle 3.5" or less (AKA backspacing), and that are wide enough for your tires (unless you can go somewhere that won't complain about wide tires on narrow wheels, obviously).

So, look for 15x8, 15x9 (rare), and 15x10 (tons of them), and 3.5" or less backspacing.

Or, deal with spacers, or go to a ridiculous amount of trouble to put longer hubs from an 80/Tundra/etc. on your axles so you can run more commonly available wheels (also, bigger brakes, so it's not totally insane).
Click to expand...
starting to get a better picture of what I need... I have 15X10s now (which dont work) So, i guess ill search 15x8s as the 8s are rare.

again...ty.
 
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