tire weight

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Feb 9, 2002
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i'm running 33x10.5 tsl radials which weigh 53lbs apiece.
i would like to go up to:
36x12.5 tsl's @ 65lbs apiece
or
38x12.5 tsl's @ 71lbs apiece

does the extra weight put the strain on parts?
are heavier tires harder on stuff?

the price to have the 38's shipped to me is only $90
more than the 36's, which is why i think i might as well
go to them.
 
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i think if your worried about breaking stuff because of the tires, the smaller will be better, just from what ive read on here. run puny 31's myself. think its not so much weight as it is more mass to knock around in the rocks and such. dont know about 40's but theres been numerous posts on 80's if your going to go with 35's or bigger that many mods are neccesary.
all second hand information, most likely misinterpreted :D
 
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To be honest you will not have much luck with the 36 or 38s. The stock driveline will limit you. I am not sure of your goals for your truck. Sounds like you want a real serious trail truck. Is so then driveline work is way more importaint than big tires. 33s are fine for 85% of all trails. For me they are fine for 100% of all trails I want to be on but I am not saying you should not go bigger if that is your deal. Once you get into the 35" or larger realm you need to plan the driveline around your tires and goals. You are looking at D60/D90 portals etc.. All are great but you need to turn them. The 1K or so for tires can do a hell of a lot to a drive line. I would not go 38/36 with stock axels. Especially drum break axels! it will never stop! 36 is Ok for a mall cruiser but if you trail it hard you will break. 35s are about as big as I would go. That is not to say you cant get away with it but have driveshafts and bierfields with you. Got lockers? A truck with 31s and locked ft/RR will go places a truck with 38s will never go.
 
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Like dd113 said about 33's. If you haven't locked up, PS'd, lower-geared or increased power(SBC), you don't need big tires. With mods mentioned I have managed 100% of the obstacles I have been brave enough to try. Hammerhead runs 35's with the same mods except PS. I don't believe he'd recommend anything bigger without serious axel/birf upgrades. IMO, without the above mentioned upgrades 33's or bigger makes a nice mall cruiser, and an inevitable breakdown or serious stuck situation up the trail. 33's or bigger are needed for big rocks etc., but, upgrades are needed to safely utilize the over the long run. Get a locker in the back ( we use Lockrights, aprox. $250 ) and a whole new world opens up for you, even with low power and itty bitty tires. Even in two wheel drive. You can still bust parts though especially if you have a heavy foot though, with or without other mods. ;)
 
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The increase in weight is negligable compared to the increased rolling circumferance and leverage against the working parts. Larger tires make your brakes effectively smaller. The same happens to your drive train. A 35" tire is 20% taller than stock. It takes 20% more torque at the axle to turn that tire with the same amount of force measured at the tread. The same adverse effects can be expected in your brakes.
The heavier tires will increase your unsprung weight. That is the portion of the vehicle that is not suspended. Good shocks should offset any ill efects brought on by this.
 

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