Tips on removing egr valve assembly? !real time!

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cool breeze

cool breeze

Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
2,461
Location
Colorado m'fing Springs!
Im tracking down my egr code. I took of the modulator and it looked fine so i started pulling hoses and saw the one coming of the small metal long nipple to the egr valve assembly is caked with carbon.

I looked up the faq and am using that but cant get it off. Looking for tips on removing two things:
the heat sensor connector(wtf kind is that?)
the large nut on the egr pipe from manifold

Id like to get this down by tonight, thanks!:beer:
 
HA, im awesome! But i did get it off after fighting it. A nice big channel locks worked and some pressure to the connector, after years its together pretty good.

There is carbon everywhere, id love to clean it all but that would be impossible, what did yall use. Just compressed air and carb cleaner?
 
Howdy! Congrats on getting it apart. I've heard its a Royal Pain. Chase all that carbon with whatever fits the space; wire brush, bottle brush, coat hanger, ice pick, Put a little oral vacuum onto the diaphram to see if it moves OK, but it should NOT leak. Good Luck. John
 
Well got it all cleaned up and tried getting it on, OMFG! I messed up the exhaust pipe hole a little by trying to pry it onto the valve housing and finally gave up after trying all i had.

Does it have to come off the manifold to be put back on? Im at my wits end with this thing...
 
I have no idea what parts are being worked on here??? What's a valve housing? What's an exhaust pipe hole? What's the "it" you want off the manifold so you can put it back on? Slow down.

DougM
 
Sorry for the confusion, let me clarify. By valve housing i mean the the solid steel piece the egr valve is attached to. I called it this because didnt see it called anything in the fsm..
It is attached to the intake manifold on one end, the egr modulator and then the exhaust inlet which has the large 32mm or so nut.
 
I know this part does sometimes need a bit of prying, but it helps if you loosely turn the 32mm nut on just a bit, then get the other bolts started as well before starting to tighten things down. This way you have some slack to move things around if you need to pry to line things up. If you tightened something up before moving on, then that makes it very difficult.

HTH,

DougM
 
You need to remove the studs from the intake manifold before R&R of the EGR valve.

-B-
 
I wish the fsm said that, maybe i didnt look hard enough. So unscrew the studs from the manifold, thats it?
 
For me, taking the studs out allowed me to hold the egr in place and get a couple of turns on the egr nut. Then the egr and gasket was easy to get on.

Buck
 
cool breeze said:
I wish the fsm said that, maybe i didnt look hard enough. So unscrew the studs from the manifold, thats it?
Click to expand...

Well, it is hard to tell from your verbal description. Post up some pics if you need informed assistance. We are working in the dark from your description of what is going on.

The removal of the 2 intake studs that hold the EGR valve is described quite well in the Toyota FSM.

-B-
 
cool breeze said:
Im tracking down my egr code. I took of the modulator and it looked fine so i started pulling hoses and saw the one coming of the small metal long nipple to the egr valve assembly is caked with carbon.

I looked up the faq and am using that but cant get it off. Looking for tips on removing two things:
the heat sensor connector(wtf kind is that?)
the large nut on the egr pipe from manifold

Id like to get this down by tonight, thanks!:beer:
Click to expand...

Although you have long finished your EGR job, alot of folks on mud have looked for the right tool for the large EGR nut. When I did mine, I used my 1 1/4" hydraulic fitting wrench (see pics), the 60 degree offset side. It fits perfectly, and you can get a good purchase on it, to tap loose that stubborn fella.;)
IMG_0014.jpg
IMG_0018.jpg
 
Nice tool. Err...ah...

DougM
 
The FSM does note the removal of the studs. One place (from my 1994) is EG-269 under Injector Removal, step 6-e.

Anyhow, you will need a female torx socket, IIRC. I ended up buying a whole set from the Snap-on man on a Saturday. I have heard others have used the "two nut method" to be able to remove them. Use a bit of penetrating oil (PB Blaster is my favorite) on those studs.

There used to be a nice writeup with pics some fellas did a while back to R&R the injectors, which required pulling the EGR. Good pics and discussion. Can't find the link now.
 
I actually managed to get my EGR valve off without taking off the studs. It was a little tough but manageable. As far as the big EGR union nut I just used a crescent wrench, it worked fine. My nut was super rusted as well, I just sprayed some penetrating oil on and it turned off just fine. Also, I got it all back on without taking off the torx head studs.
 
Ahh, back to this. Even though it was worth while pulling it off because it was caked with carbon, my cel came back. Getting it back on requiredputting it on the pipe and getting a thread or two of the nut on, then lining up the studs to the manifold. A hell of a pita with lots of cuts and aches.

So what next? The valve is clean and not stuck, the modulator seems proper, the vsv?
 
What code is the CEL throwing? Is it the 71 again, IIRC for OBDI cars ? Double check that it isn't throwing something else.

Are you sure the port that runs from the EGR valve into the top of the intake is totally clear? Mine was plugged up with carbon and no one else could find it. Carbon was right there in the opening to the top of the intake.

VSV could be the problem, or the vacuum actuator or the temp sensor. There are not any other components that I know of in the system. I replaced all but the temp sensor and also put in all new vacuum lnes. My vac lines where not holding a good seal. All hard. No problems since.
 
Yesterday, I tried to remove the large nut 1 "1 / 4 and could not.
It was very difficult to loosen and I was afraid of breaking something.
Does the screw rotates clockwise or is reversed ?
Is recommended that this hot or cold?

Any kind of advice is welcome !!!

Thank you very much
 
Gusta said:
Yesterday, I tried to remove the large nut 1 "1 / 4 and could not.
It was very difficult to loosen and I was afraid of breaking something.
Does the screw rotates clockwise or is reversed ?
Is recommended that this hot or cold?

Any kind of advice is welcome !!!

Thank you very much
Click to expand...

Magic, only one hit was enough !!!

Thanks to all
 
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