Tips for removing rear shock from lower mount? (1 Viewer)

[DIFF LOCK]

I’m stuck at the moment.

I’m trying to install Old Man Emu 10mm trim packers on stock springs with stock shocks.

The rear end is supported by 3-ton jacks which aren’t very tall. With the rear wheels removed and the rear axle unsupported, things are sitting pretty close to the ground and I don’t have a ton of clearance.

I’ve disconnected the sway bar at the frame and removed the lower shock bolt. However I cannot pry the shock off the mounting shaft. It simply flexes in place because of the inner rubber bushing, but otherwise won’t make any forward progress. I’ve tried various makeshift pry bars and even whacked the shock body with a rubber mallet. It’s not budging at the moment.

Should I raise the axle on the side I’m working on (I.e., put load on it) or should I raise the axle on the opposite site to induce droop? Which of these is the optimal way to alleviate the tension so I can get the shock to come off the lower mount?

 

[RedesKat]

I'd put a jack under the axle and raise it a little as the shock is probably at full extension not allowing movement to pull it off, give it a go with a prybar and it should come off super easy

 

[ramangain]

Raise the side you're working on.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Raise the axle on the side you are working on to get the pressure off the shock. I usually change shocks with the wheels on and the truck on the ground. Also the bushing could be kind of galled on there. I have had to beat old shock off with a BFH before but your stuff lools pretty clean.

 

[ramangain]

And be careful with the bolt in the fender well for the swaybar mount when reattaching. Those are not robust threads.

 

[3_puppies]

the rubber is "froze" to the metal tube.
as stated above jack the axle up a little
use a long pry bar coming in from the tire side behind shock as close to the bushing area as possible, put the tip of the bar against the axle housing and pry off
you may end up needing new bushings if it is froze to the tube.
I've had the rubber stay on the tube and the shock come off separetely in the past

a 4' bar should be sufficient

 

[TILLOTSON]

Mine was clean no rust truck, but that metal sleeve was stuck so bad I had to use one of these:

to put some pressure on it with the puller, deforming the rubber a bit, then I hit it with a torch and it came right off. I did file down the tip of the screw on the puller and I think I put something between the screw and the shock stud threads so that I didn’t damage them.

The top of my shocks were loose, there was no pressure on the shock. I tried a small pry bar and broke it. I tried a large pet bar and got the rubber to stretch but the metal sleeve in the shocks bushing would not move. I used a lot of penetrating oil. The puller and torch combo worked easy. You might be able to skip the puller and use a pry bar and heat.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

As others noted, you have to Jack up the axle so that the shock is in neutral position.

 

[DIFF LOCK]

Thanks for all the input, guys!

Jacking up the side I was working on was the right move, although finding that sweet spot where the shock eyelet and the mounting shaft lined up nicely was difficult (as confirmed during reassembly). Driver’s side rear shock was stuck bad and required a bearing puller; I borrowed an old school one from my dad. Even then, it was really challenging to coerce off. It finally “popped” and dislodged a bit and then I just pried it off the rest of the way. That side is done and buttoned up. Passenger side was much easier and I’m about 70% done and will finish it up today.

This was way more challenging than I was anticipating—especially seeing Chow Cares just pop out springs on YouTube without any hassles at all; not even having to disconnect sway bar links, the ABS brake line, the rear differential breather line, etc. I had grossly underestimated the time and effort this would take!