Timing plate slotted bolt removal (1 Viewer)

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Dude the perpendicular scratch IS leftover from where it was staked.
You’re telling me this has been apart before? And the buggered up bit on the one is from me. I don’t have a before of that one.

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That oiler is sheared off. Zoomed in shot clearly shows ripped metal. It even appears it sheared off by someone trying to loosen it... tears twist toward the right (noted at about 6pm). That’s what I see.

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You’re telling me this has been apart before? And the buggered up bit on the one is from me. I don’t have a before of that one.

View attachment 2670482

View attachment 2670483
No I’m saying that leftover staked cut IS probably from the factory. I can look back at my own photos and could show you how mine looked. I did not remove my oiler when I had my plate off a few times. I left it as it was so I wouldn’t mess w/ it’s depth in the plate.
 
No I’m saying that leftover staked cut IS probably from the factory. I can look back at my own photos and could show you how mine looked. I did not remove my oiler when I had my plate off a few times. I left it as it was so I wouldn’t mess w/ it’s depth in the plate.
That was one of my questions- is the oiler 2 pieces? Like the base part would screw into the cover and the actual oiler is pressed into the base piece? Or it’s all one piece? Also, the old plate gasket was black, like all the ones I’ve seen, also leading me to believe it’s original. The new one is brownish tan.
 
Sorry, I missed the OP's question.
To remove slotted screws, it may be necessary to grind away the stake, using a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. Don't worry about dinging the screw heads, as they should be discarded & replaced with the updated Torx drive screws.

Edit: the oiler is one brass piece, easily broken or damaged. Same for all 1/2/3F.
 
Sorry, I missed the OP's question.
To remove slotted screws, it may be necessary to grind away the stake, using a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. Don't worry about dinging the screw heads, as they should be discarded & replaced with the updated Torx drive screws.

Edit: the oiler is one brass piece, easily broken or damaged. Same for all 1/2/3F.
Where would one find the new torx drive screws?
I am getting ready to do this myself. Just gathering parts.
 
Sorry, I missed the OP's question.
To remove slotted screws, it may be necessary to grind away the stake, using a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. Don't worry about dinging the screw heads, as they should be discarded & replaced with the updated Torx drive screws.

Edit: the oiler is one brass piece, easily broken or damaged. Same for all 1/2/3F.
That was one of my questions- is the oiler 2 pieces? Like the base part would screw into the cover and the actual oiler is pressed into the base piece? Or it’s all one piece?

Oh it’s already back together for the most part. I don’t have the radiator back in it yet so I’m going to see if can get an oiler.
 
Here's another picture of the correct oiler on a '86 2F. Original and unmolested.
View attachment 2670555
So it’s discontinued. I have a few calls in to source a used one. Interesting fun fact though, Amayama.com lists the part number 90915-01014 being for production years 11-84 to 01-90 though. I have a 6/83
 
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The PN changes a few times through the years, starting at 01005 up through the mid 60s....

Cruiserparts shows it available. I would call & talk to a human to verify.
The PN changes a few times through the years, starting at 01005 up through the mid 60s....

Cruiserparts shows it available. I would call & talk to a human to verify.


Done and ordered, thanks. They had a brand new OEM one in stock.
 

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