Timing Pinging revisited** (1 Viewer)

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Dec 24, 2014
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41
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179
Location
Seattle, Washington
So first off it still pings from dead stop if I feather or lightly accelerate. Then goes away. Or if I'm moving and normal driving speed with a slight incline and I feather the gas pedal and keep it feathered the pinging continues until I move beyond the sweet spot. Would crossing vacuum tubes ca use this? It's the valve/switch thing that has the green decal or sticker on it.
To be clear, I'm unsure if I plugged the 2 tubes into the wrong ports. I know pinging is bad and can punch holes into piston heads, so you can imagine why I want the pinging to stop.

I did manage to get the old PCV valve out as well as the grommet. The hose cracked a little but I put electric tape around it to seal it the best I could for a temp fix. Should I use small radiator hose or rubber fuel line with clamps on either end?

20160620_155716.jpg
 
The inside hose goes to the inside port outside to the outside port, I believe there are letters r goes to r, I'd replace the cracked hose on pcv also with something, I don't believe that would cause pinging, did you put in bad gas? Where is your timing set if at sea level put it to 3 degrees and you must put the truck into timing mode stick jumper in your diagnostic port te1 to e1 I believe but you should check which ones you jump
 
On side note all your heater hoses are original and heater valve I'd change those all out sooner then later
 
I did not adjust timing, newer cap and rotor wires could probably use replacement, about 40k -50k or 3 to 5 year on those.
I decided to add Lucas fuel system/ injector cleager about 2 oz per 10 gallons, using about 3oz per 10 gallons so 6oz per fill up.
Running 89 octane hoping that would help With pinging sometimes 87 octane. I use chevron or 76 gas. It's rare that I'll use grocery store gas, occasionally I'll use Costco gas and put in 92 octane. So the fuel quality is decent to good.
 
P. S. There is a small air or vacuum leak from the pcv hose where is split. I have black electrical tape plugging the leak....mostly. it works for now and a bandaid, but I need to replace the hose.
 
Only light that comes on is the oil light. Seattle has not a level place to check oil levels so I'm either a qrt low or the sensor is acting up. But where's that sensor located?
 
So first off it still pings from dead stop if I feather or lightly accelerate. Then goes away. Or if I'm moving and normal driving speed with a slight incline and I feather the gas pedal and keep it feathered the pinging continues until I move beyond the sweet spot. Would crossing vacuum tubes ca use this? It's the valve/switch thing that has the green decal or sticker on it.
To be clear, I'm unsure if I plugged the 2 tubes into the wrong ports. I know pinging is bad and can punch holes into piston heads, so you can imagine why I want the pinging to stop.

I did manage to get the old PCV valve out as well as the grommet. The hose cracked a little but I put electric tape around it to seal it the best I could for a temp fix. Should I use small radiator hose or rubber fuel line with clamps on either end?

View attachment 1279061
But what's the switch/vacuum device with the green label called?
 
I didn't see any vacuum tubes going to the distributor, I take it the timing advance is done electronically, not via vacuum.
 
Yes, no vacuum advance, all electronic.
 
Correct. No vacuum advance. All electronic
 
What year truck? 93-94 are known to run leaner than 95-97

The factory PCV hose isn't too expensive, is molded to fit exactly, and is rated for engine oil and crank case vapors. These conditions can be hard on hoses that aren't the correct type.

Only light that comes on is the oil light. Seattle has not a level place to check oil levels so I'm either a qrt low or the sensor is acting up. But where's that sensor located?

Oil level sensor is located next to where the dipstick tube goes into the upper oil pan. There is a smallish rectangular part with 4 bolts and an electrical harness.. this goes down to a float that normally sits below the top surface of the oil in the sump.

For a properly working light it doesn't come on til 2-3qts low. Not the end of the world, considering the sump holds almost two gallons of oil.. but if your dipstick is anywhere within the normal crosshatch range the oil light shouldn't be on. Esp because the oil level sensor is relatively close to the dipstick. they should agree somewhat.

Should be "cancelling"

I suspect the ECU only has so far it can retard timing, and that isn't enough range to deal with a couple hundred thousand miles of carbon buildup.. that or the knock sensors are only part of the loop under heavy throttle, and he is below the threshold of them doing anything.
 

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