Timing Chain Question (1 Viewer)

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Jan 19, 2021
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Emigrant, MT 59027
Have owned my 40 for just over a year now, she is a 72 that happens to have a 350 sbc in it. Didn't drive a ton last year as the engine tended to run a bit hot......likely the original radiator was overwhelmed. I have a replacement radiator ready to put in that is shrouded. At the same time, figure I should replace the water pump. While it is torn apart, should we go ahead and replace the timing chain?
 
Do you have numbers off the block; casting number and the stamped numbers on the pad on the passenger side right above the water pump. Reason I ask is are you sure it’s a 350? If it’s not leaking, I’d leave it. But if it’s a 307, those had nylon timing gears so I’d change that.
In reality, if it were me, why stop at a timing chain? Radiator out and water pump removed, not much more work to just slide a new cam in too…
 
Are you having symptoms of a stretched timing chain (backfires when letting off the gas, rough idle, clackity-clack noises, etc.)? Do you know the history of the 350?

I've rebuild more 350s than I can count, so my advice is, like the others said, your 90% there and the parts are cheap. Might as well for peace of mind.
 
Going with ^^^ all the above.

I think at one time, probably still, you could walk into a “parts store” anywhere in the world and buy a part for a SBC. We used these dual idler timing gears on more than a few 283/327/350 builds. No chain stretch. Regardless if you choose a single row, double row or one of these crazy sounding dual idlers you might as well change it out.

You’re already there.😉

57461B21-77EE-477C-9BD0-AD217727B9AB.jpeg
 
A friend had a free 1 ton chev truck w/a 350 that ran good. He offered the engine to use in a in a boat. I drove the truck across his property to his shop to pull the engine. It ran fine, we figured cam lifters timing chain, plug and play. It was a aftermarket replacement engine. Later I degreased the sbc and pulled the intake. I notice a little sludge in the nooks and crannies in the valley. I had to investigate a little deeper. The engine builder used a cheap timing chain. It wiped out the bottom end. Looking at the chain I couldn't believe it ran at all. The timing cover was distorted.

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Are you having symptoms of a stretched timing chain (backfires when letting off the gas, rough idle, clackity-clack noises, etc.)? Do you know the history of the 350?

I've rebuild more 350s than I can count, so my advice is, like the others said, your 90% there and the parts are cheap. Might as well for peace of mind.
No issues,just thinking it made sense for the reasons u listed
 
Are you having symptoms of a stretched timing chain (backfires when letting off the gas, rough idle, clackity-clack noises, etc.)? Do you know the history of the 350?

I've rebuild more 350s than I can count, so my advice is, like the others said, your 90% there and the parts are cheap. Might as well for peace of mind.
No issues just thinking like u
 
What I believe to be the original timing gear out of my old 1970 C10. Couldn’t figure out why it would die at intersections and start up after the tow home until I noticed the oil leaking out of the cover where it had worn a hole. 🤦‍♂️
229B5783-30AC-4972-83ED-A8121CDCE68D.jpeg
 
52yr run is a respectable run...👍👈😎

What I believe to be the original timing gear out of my old 1970 C10. Couldn’t figure out why it would die at intersections and start up after the tow home until I noticed the oil leaking out of the cover where it had worn a hole. 🤦‍♂️
 

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