Timing belt change (3 Viewers)

[DesertLCruiser]

My 2007 LC has 185k miles on it. Last timing belt was changed at 93k by the previous owner asp per records. I’m on a tight budget. So cannot spend much now. Timing belt change costs from 800 to 1200 thatve been posted by others. I’m trying to save as much as I can. Where do you think I can reduce the price? Like the quality of the belt or elsewhere? Keeping in mind I won’t be keeping this truck for more than 30k miles with me. I’ll be selling it.
Appreciate all help.

 

[ramangain]

Save money on labor, not parts. Save up until you can buy the right parts, and the labor if you won't do the job yourself.

 

[Tanner H]

Honestly its the one service you dont want to skip on quality or cut corners. You're good to keep driving on it. Truck wont blow up. Just save up a little more and have a good shop ding you 1200 for peace of mind.

 

[baggar11]

Learn to wrench and you can get that job done on a weekend with OE parts for around $300.

 

[BullElk]

Easy. Don’t change it if the water pump is not leaking or rattling. The belt is still new at that mileage.

 

[DesertLCruiser]

Easy. Don’t change it if the water pump is not leaking or rattling. The belt is still new at that mileage.

Yes I was thinking of just getting it checked and continue to run it for a good while. But I don't want to risk it, as my time is going bad.

 

[AlpineAccess]

You're better off not touching it than skimping on parts. You can DIY and save a lot, but it's not a beginner job.

 

[Weedhopper]

My 4runner timing belt went 180k and still looked real good. Mix up the PO’s records caused that one. If you are keeping it for just another 30k drive it and enjoy.

 

[DesertLCruiser]

I won't be doing it myself coz that's beyond me. But I think I will probably run for a while and save up a little and then get it done.

Is checking of the belt when it is set up dependable? Or the wear and tear can only be checked when it is dismantled and in hand?

 

[Weedhopper]

I just saw this post flipping down my phone so I am anTundra/4Runner guy.

There should be a plastic cover in front top of the engine under the top cover. You can see the top of the belt that way. Look for cracks and frayed edges. My belt after 185 K still had the Toyota label imprinted on it. A bit faded but still there.

 

[2020 Rocks]

Your belt is likely in perfect condition. The idlers and pulleys that it runs on is what I would be most concerned with. Does it currently make a racket when running, or is it still quiet when running at idle? There was a night and day difference after my TB change as far as how quiet things got in the engine bay afterwards. How do you use this truck? Do you tow stuff? Heavy stuff? If you are using it as a DD it may not be so urgent at this time.

 

[flintknapper]

IF you can confirm the previous replacement involved changing the Timing Belt PLUS: The Water Pump and all pulleys (with good quality parts) then I'd say you are perfectly fine just driving it until you decide to have the work done.

BUT.....if the previous parts were Chinese junk and some of the original parts (pulleys, idlers, tensioner, water pump) were NOT replaced along with the Timing Belt....then that is a different story. You could be on borrowed time. Typically the belt itself holds up WAY past the recommended change interval. It's usually a water pump or pulley failure (seizing up) that takes out the belt.

If you don't have any abnormal noises.....you could pull the passenger side upper cover and see what the belt looks like to have peace of mind.

 

[DesertLCruiser]

Your belt is likely in perfect condition. The idlers and pulleys that it runs on is what I would be most concerned with. Does it currently make a racket when running, or is it still quiet when running at idle? There was a night and day difference after my TB change as far as how quiet things got in the engine bay afterwards. How do you use this truck? Do you tow stuff? Heavy stuff? If you are using it as a DD it may not be so urgent at this time.

 

[DesertLCruiser]

Your belt is likely in perfect condition. The idlers and pulleys that it runs on is what I would be most concerned with. Does it currently make a racket when running, or is it still quiet when running at idle? There was a night and day difference after my TB change as far as how quiet things got in the engine bay afterwards. How do you use this truck? Do you tow stuff? Heavy stuff? If you are using it as a DD it may not be so urgent at this time.

No racket noises as such. Normal noise. Maybe a little more than normal.
And apart from the picture I attached, at 93k, TB was replaced, water pump replaced and TB tensioner/idler was checked.

 

[DesertLCruiser]

IF you can confirm the previous replacement involved changing the Timing Belt PLUS: The Water Pump and all pulleys (with good quality parts) then I'd say you are perfectly fine just driving it until you decide to have the work done.

BUT.....if the previous parts were Chinese junk and some of the original parts (pulleys, idlers, tensioner, water pump) were NOT replaced along with the Timing Belt....then that is a different story. You could be on borrowed time. Typically the belt itself holds up WAY past the recommended change interval. It's usually a water pump or pulley failure (seizing up) that takes out the belt.

If you don't have any abnormal noises.....you could pull the passenger side upper cover and see what the belt looks like to have peace of mind.

In the car fax there is no mention of pulleys.but at 135k Carfax mentioned “Drive Belt(s) Replaced”. Does that mean the pulleys??
Or should I get the Pulleys checked since I’m planning to drive it another 30 without changing the TB.

 

[flintknapper]

In the car fax there is no mention of pulleys.but at 135k Carfax mentioned “Drive Belt(s) Replaced”. Does that mean the pulleys??
Or should I get the Pulleys checked since I’m planning to drive it another 30 without changing the TB.

Difficult to decipher that. There is really only one 'drive' belt and that would be the Serpentine belt that drives the accessories on the front of the engine (alternator, A/C Compressor,Fan clutch, Power steering pump). The other belt (timing belt) is housed behind several covers (as are the water pump, tensioner, idler pulleys). There is not a good way to determine their condition short of going in that far to inspect...OR abnormal noises from that area or water pump leak.

Absent any leaks or noises.....I would drive it without worry.

 

[AlpineAccess]

In the car fax there is no mention of pulleys.but at 135k Carfax mentioned “Drive Belt(s) Replaced”. Does that mean the pulleys??
Or should I get the Pulleys checked since I’m planning to drive it another 30 without changing the TB.

It just means drive belt, which isn't naming any specific belt. Service advisors don't know what boxes they are checking, nor do they seem to care.

Thankfully they "checked the exterior trim". It could have been scuffed!

 

[MJK]

Call the dealer listed on the Carfax and ask them.

 

[97 AZ LC]

They say "drive belt(s) replaced" because some engines, such as the 1FZ-FE in the 80 series, have more than one accessory belt rather than one long serpentine belt.

 

[flintknapper]

They say "drive belt(s) replaced" because some engines, such as the 1FZ-FE in the 80 series, have more than one accessory belt rather than one long serpentine belt.

Even the 2UZ-FE uses two belts. The Serpentine belt that 'drives' all the accessories and the 'Timing Belt' who's primary function is for Cam Timing but it does drive the water pump in addition to that. Just never heard of it being referred to as a drive belt.