Timing Belt change in progress question. (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Jdfern

SILVER Star
Joined
May 9, 2020
Threads
23
Messages
72
Location
Farmingville, NY
After my local toyota dealer quoted over $2000 plus tax to do t-belt job, I decided to do it myself. I've been using this forum and the OTRAMM video for guidance so far so good. I have a 2003 LC I was told by the PO that the engine was changed so I am trying determine the year of the engine all I have is the casting number which looks like *5139847* so i'm not sure if the engine is a 2003. The mechanic from the OTRAMM video says different years determine where you set the crank / cam position before you take the belt off. For example he was working on a 2001 and set is @ 50 degrees past the zero mark. So I don't know what position I should set the crank at before I remove the belt.
 
^^^ agree. Only difference is on the VVT. Don't be concerned with the 50 degree. Just set marks on zero, makes job easier.

What may happen, is cam will sometimes move on it's own off zero. This is from the valve springs pressure on cam lobes. It turns, to find spot of least resistance from spring pressure.

Just reset on marks during install, if they move. I like to put belt on, then very lightly clamp onto sprocket(s). This is to keep belt from coming off marks. I then install tensioner pulley using thread sealant. I just use Toyota FIPG 102 or 103 (oil). But any oil rate thread sealant is fine. Just don't use red, as it make to difficult to remove next service. I then put on idler pulley (LH side pulley (DS)). Finally I install tensioner, then remove clamps off pulleys/belt and pull pin from tensioner.

Then spin crank 720 degrees CW. Marks of all sprocket should all zero at this point. Belt marks will not line back up!

I suggest a mod I do with FIPG 1282B on block, if pitting found (I always find pitting).



BTW: look for VIN # plate on RH (PS) head. If removed you can't get history of engine. I next look on engine block. The foundry cast & stamps in markings. You can detriment if USA or Japanese made.
 
The motor didn’t change from 98-05 but the setting procedure described in the FSM varies by printing edition/model year hence the confusion.

IDK I’d find TDC per lining up the hash marks on the cam & head and proceed as shown in the 04 FSM.
 
After my local toyota dealer quoted over $2000 plus tax to do t-belt job, I decided to do it myself. I've been using this forum and the OTRAMM video for guidance so far so good. I have a 2003 LC I was told by the PO that the engine was changed so I am trying determine the year of the engine all I have is the casting number which looks like *5139847* so i'm not sure if the engine is a 2003. The mechanic from the OTRAMM video says different years determine where you set the crank / cam position before you take the belt off. For example he was working on a 2001 and set is @ 50 degrees past the zero mark. So I don't know what position I should set the crank at before I remove the belt.

For your year model you can advance the belt 50°. All this does is place the cams in the most neutral position possible with respect to valve spring pressure (which tends to cause the cams to rotate when the belt is removed). That might happen even at the 50° position anyway.

No worry in any case. Before removal of the old belt if you have brought the engine to TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke (for the #1 cylinder, then all you have to do is match the witness marks on the belt with the marks/locations on the crank and both pulleys. This might mean you'll have to rotate a pulley one direction or the other. Start by lining up the witness marks on the belt for the crank, then install belt moving each cam pulley wherever necessary to line up the marks and you'll be good.

crank marks.jpg

Tbelt1.jpg

Timing2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here's FSM 45 degrees BTDC, which I don't bother with non VVT. Whereas Toyota does call the 2UZ-fe interference, we've found this to not be the case in non VVT.

Timing belt FSM VVT remove c.jpg

During install. I use casting markings of crank sprocket to oil pump housing, to set top dead center. Then spin 720 CW, confirm timed, and put lower cover on later.

Timing Belt 06LC 194K 050.JPG
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom