timing a 350 for cooling

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by dgangle, Jun 27, 2005.

  1. dgangle

    dgangle total rice

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    A recent topic on how hot your engine runs has me asking a few questions. My carb'd 350 runs 220-230*F this time of year. I have the advance set at 38* total per my engine guru. My question is what amount of advance have others used with a hot-running 350. Here is a link to the other thread:




    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=556082#post556082
     
  2. Rice

    Rice

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    38* with iron heads is just a touch on the high side. I would say 36* when timing is all in. However, let me add that an advance of 38* should not be the troubles of your heating. While having the timing too high can cause heating toubles it's mch less forgiving when the timing is retarded.

    What else can you tell us about the cooling setup you have? Have pics!

    Rice
     
  3. Shawn Russell

    Shawn Russell

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    Are you talking about 36-38 degrees of ignition advance? My book says something in the neighborhood for 10-13... Am I missing something?
     
  4. dgangle

    dgangle total rice

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    Sorry, details are:
    4 core CCoT radiator
    160 t stat
    solid Flex-a-lite nylon fan spaced 1/2 way in/out http://tinyurl.com/c2mlr
    custom shroud
    stock 350 long nose waterpump
    38* total advance
    HEI distributor
    Dex Cool

    Runs highest on highway. Reaches 220-230 and never recovers. The fan has good air pull-you can feel it with your hands in front of the bib. Warn 8000 on bumper. I know the radiator is inadequate and have been researching what others have done for some time. I guess I am looking to make sure the advance might be contributing to the running hot before plunging into an aluminum crossflow radiator.
     
  5. dgangle

    dgangle total rice

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    38* total advance
     
  6. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    The fan has nothing to do with overheating on the highway. My guess is your radiator is inadiquate.
     
  7. Junkyard

    Junkyard

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    Have you thought about using a higher-temp thermostat? A 160 degree t-stat will be open all the time & not allowing the radiator to do it's cooling job if you're running much higher temps all the time.

    Try a 180 or 190 degree t-stat. Easy/cheap fix.

    Might not fix the entire problem, but it's certainly contributing to overheating.
     
  8. dgangle

    dgangle total rice

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    Done it & it makes no difference. Once it gets hot it never recovers.
     
  9. Rice

    Rice

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    I tend to agree with Gumby. Typical sign of not having enough radiator is poor cooling while at speed. On the other hand I lean away from that thinking when you say it does recover.

    Based on what you describe I suspect a couple things ... radiator isn't dumping heat the way it should due to crud on the inside (how old is it and how long since boiled out?)

    Water pump is doing a piss poor circulation job. Same question, how old is the pump.

    Another question ... are we talking about "I can smell it" hot or is there a chance the problem is a sending unit?

    Anything else you can give us? e.g. water and oil are both clean? Any change in performance? Is the engine sluggish? Have you changed carbs or jets (i.e. could it be running lean).

    Let us know,
    Rice
     
  10. ranger

    ranger

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    Thats your problem.....
    You can put a larger fan, shroud, high volume water pump and your still going to have the same problem. Only way to fix it is a larger surface area radiator.
    Been there done that.
     
  11. ken_79-fj40

    ken_79-fj40

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    Another option could be the coolant. I know nothing about dexcool but I talk to guys everyday that fulsh their coolant, and refill with straight antifreeze. And then they overheat on the highway. Regular antifreeze has to be 50/50 or so with water to work properly. Other than that I would say radiator too. But don't lots of people run this radiator with V8's without issues? I was thinking of using a replacement 4 core if/when I put in my tbi 350.
     
  12. dgangle

    dgangle total rice

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    It does NOT recover. It stays hot once it gets hot. New pump, radiator, engine, 50/50 Dexcool & distilled water. It's a "I can smell it hot". New 10W40 dino. Mobil 1 made no difference in cooling but did leak from every imaginable gasket surface. Engine is peppy as ever. Carb jetted by local reputable old-time carb shop/Quadrajet guru w/ lots of grey hair. It's the radiator & I know it. Temp measured with Autometer gauge, not dash idiot indicator. I am just curious as to if anyone has experience with timing affecting cooling and if so what they recommend.
     
  13. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    If it's so far advanced that the timing is getting it that hot, then you would have detonation and hard starting problems as well.

    Gotta fix the known problem before you can hope to find possible side effects.
     
  14. guammybear

    guammybear

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    Did you ever fix your cooling problem?
     
  15. DaveWest5150

    DaveWest5150

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    I have a radiator from Champion... it was 200.00 and it is GREAT! not that I had a lot of problems before...But now It will run at 190 /205 tops when its 110 out. once on the hwy it'll drop to 190 and stay there.
     
  16. fieldsken1

    fieldsken1

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    i have the same set up my timming is at 38 total advance. change the thermostat to a high flow.. the stock thermostat will close at high flow due to pressure and a high flow will stay open. change it and you will see a differance. also straight water will cool better
     
  17. FJsnoozer

    FJsnoozer

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    I had the same problems you had on my 5.0, All of them went away once I went with a good new radiator.

    I used to have to run the heater to cool things off in the summer! My passengers did not appreciate that
     
  18. LandCruiserPhil

    LandCruiserPhil Peter Pan Syndrome Supporting Vendor

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    Running a large radiator, big fan, and good shroud is the way you keep a 40 cool in AZ with AC during the 115° temps.
    FJ40 front end.jpg
     
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