timing a 350 for cooling

Rice

 
 
Joined
May 2, 2003
Messages
4,632
Location
GSO NC
38* with iron heads is just a touch on the high side. I would say 36* when timing is all in. However, let me add that an advance of 38* should not be the troubles of your heating. While having the timing too high can cause heating toubles it's mch less forgiving when the timing is retarded.

What else can you tell us about the cooling setup you have? Have pics!

Rice
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2003
Messages
1,016
Location
So Cal
Are you talking about 36-38 degrees of ignition advance? My book says something in the neighborhood for 10-13... Am I missing something?
 

dgangle

total rice
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2004
Messages
4,002
Location
Heart of Dixie
Sorry, details are:
4 core CCoT radiator
160 t stat
solid Flex-a-lite nylon fan spaced 1/2 way in/out http://tinyurl.com/c2mlr
custom shroud
stock 350 long nose waterpump
38* total advance
HEI distributor
Dex Cool

Runs highest on highway. Reaches 220-230 and never recovers. The fan has good air pull-you can feel it with your hands in front of the bib. Warn 8000 on bumper. I know the radiator is inadequate and have been researching what others have done for some time. I guess I am looking to make sure the advance might be contributing to the running hot before plunging into an aluminum crossflow radiator.
 

dgangle

total rice
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2004
Messages
4,002
Location
Heart of Dixie
Shawn Russell said:
Are you talking about 36-38 degrees of ignition advance? My book says something in the neighborhood for 10-13... Am I missing something?
38* total advance
 
Joined
Dec 13, 2004
Messages
58
Location
Lincoln, CA
Have you thought about using a higher-temp thermostat? A 160 degree t-stat will be open all the time & not allowing the radiator to do it's cooling job if you're running much higher temps all the time.

Try a 180 or 190 degree t-stat. Easy/cheap fix.

Might not fix the entire problem, but it's certainly contributing to overheating.
 

dgangle

total rice
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2004
Messages
4,002
Location
Heart of Dixie
Junkyard said:
Have you thought about using a higher-temp thermostat? A 160 degree t-stat will be open all the time & not allowing the radiator to do it's cooling job if you're running much higher temps all the time.

Try a 180 or 190 degree t-stat. Easy/cheap fix.

Might not fix the entire problem, but it's certainly contributing to overheating.
Done it & it makes no difference. Once it gets hot it never recovers.
 

Rice

 
 
Joined
May 2, 2003
Messages
4,632
Location
GSO NC
I tend to agree with Gumby. Typical sign of not having enough radiator is poor cooling while at speed. On the other hand I lean away from that thinking when you say it does recover.

Based on what you describe I suspect a couple things ... radiator isn't dumping heat the way it should due to crud on the inside (how old is it and how long since boiled out?)

Water pump is doing a piss poor circulation job. Same question, how old is the pump.

Another question ... are we talking about "I can smell it" hot or is there a chance the problem is a sending unit?

Anything else you can give us? e.g. water and oil are both clean? Any change in performance? Is the engine sluggish? Have you changed carbs or jets (i.e. could it be running lean).

Let us know,
Rice
 

ranger

 
 
Joined
Jan 18, 2003
Messages
1,169
Location
Mountain Hole, Idaho
dgangle said:
Sorry, details are:
4 core CCoT radiator
.
Thats your problem.....
You can put a larger fan, shroud, high volume water pump and your still going to have the same problem. Only way to fix it is a larger surface area radiator.
Been there done that.
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2002
Messages
1,424
Location
New Hampshire
Another option could be the coolant. I know nothing about dexcool but I talk to guys everyday that fulsh their coolant, and refill with straight antifreeze. And then they overheat on the highway. Regular antifreeze has to be 50/50 or so with water to work properly. Other than that I would say radiator too. But don't lots of people run this radiator with V8's without issues? I was thinking of using a replacement 4 core if/when I put in my tbi 350.
 

dgangle

total rice
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2004
Messages
4,002
Location
Heart of Dixie
Rice said:
I tend to agree with Gumby. Typical sign of not having enough radiator is poor cooling while at speed. On the other hand I lean away from that thinking when you say it does recover.

Based on what you describe I suspect a couple things ... radiator isn't dumping heat the way it should due to crud on the inside (how old is it and how long since boiled out?)

Water pump is doing a piss poor circulation job. Same question, how old is the pump.

Another question ... are we talking about "I can smell it" hot or is there a chance the problem is a sending unit?

Anything else you can give us? e.g. water and oil are both clean? Any change in performance? Is the engine sluggish? Have you changed carbs or jets (i.e. could it be running lean).

Let us know,
Rice
It does NOT recover. It stays hot once it gets hot. New pump, radiator, engine, 50/50 Dexcool & distilled water. It's a "I can smell it hot". New 10W40 dino. Mobil 1 made no difference in cooling but did leak from every imaginable gasket surface. Engine is peppy as ever. Carb jetted by local reputable old-time carb shop/Quadrajet guru w/ lots of grey hair. It's the radiator & I know it. Temp measured with Autometer gauge, not dash idiot indicator. I am just curious as to if anyone has experience with timing affecting cooling and if so what they recommend.
 

Gumby

Supamod
Staff member
s-Moderator
 
 
 
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
11,667
Location
Knee deep in hookers and gin
If it's so far advanced that the timing is getting it that hot, then you would have detonation and hard starting problems as well.

Gotta fix the known problem before you can hope to find possible side effects.
 
Joined
Mar 29, 2005
Messages
571
Location
Las Vegas, NV
I have a radiator from Champion... it was 200.00 and it is GREAT! not that I had a lot of problems before...But now It will run at 190 /205 tops when its 110 out. once on the hwy it'll drop to 190 and stay there.
 
Joined
Nov 6, 2007
Messages
2,569
Location
in my little world
i have the same set up my timming is at 38 total advance. change the thermostat to a high flow.. the stock thermostat will close at high flow due to pressure and a high flow will stay open. change it and you will see a differance. also straight water will cool better
 
Joined
Apr 13, 2011
Messages
1,971
Location
Austin, Texas
I had the same problems you had on my 5.0, All of them went away once I went with a good new radiator.

I used to have to run the heater to cool things off in the summer! My passengers did not appreciate that
 
Top Bottom