time to clean up the wires, wheres a good place to buy? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 11, 2008
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Location
Tigard Oregon
Since I got my truck a few years ago I have added quite a few things to it, without any real plan, which resulted in numerous wires off the battery, relays and switches all over the place and im going to clean it up. My plan is to have only only 2 main wires, ground and positive, ( 1/0 size from what ive read on 'mud ) coming into the interior, and branching off that for all my electrical needs. Not to mention I will have a bank of relays, all in the same location, and a bank of switches, again, all in the same location.

So where do you suggest I buy wire from? What I did in the past is use the wire from Home Depot, because thats what I know, but obviously thats not the professional way to go about it. Im going to need the larger wire coming in, plus a little smaller for my inverter, onboard air, stereo amp, and future ARB refrigerator. Plus smaller gauge for 12v receptacles.

I dont know much about 12V parts and pieces, so hopefully some of you guys that have ventured into this like Phil can give me some tips and tricks. I just dont want the hack job look anymore!!
 
Nothing wrong with the primary wire Home Depot sells IMO.

I would like to see more detail and equipment locations before I offer any suggestions. There are 10 different ways to do things not just one answer. You say you need 1/0 wire for ???:meh: The largest gauge I have use is #4 and with a similar list of equipment everything works great with zero issues. Again many ways to 12volt electrical safely.
 
I'll make a list of the electrical items and there amp draw and post it up later. I just want to go big as needed so that any future items I add will not need any more power brought in. That's the mistake I made in the first place.
 
I run a:
PUMA
1000W inverter
Fridge
Computer
400w inverter
multiable 12volt outlets
All with no wire larger then #4
Its all in the way you go about it:popcorn:

Rear storage 010.jpg
 
Tell us how Kwai Chang Kane.:p. The mysteries of 12 volt escape many of us, me included
 
fuel suction device
 
:lol:
 
Oh look Claudia made a funny!! (not really) :)

Phil, looks like my list of electrical is pretty close to yours. I was looking at the inverter specs and maybe its just the manufacturer being too safe, but they recommend 0 cable at maximum 6 feet for the 600W inverter. Obviously thats not going to happen, more like 15 ft. if I keep the idea of putting it in the console area. So even with 0 cable, voltage drop @ 15 ft would be .09 V. Still thinking #4? Im open to info and suggestions.

Heres my present and future list:

2- 7" HID's
2- 4" HID's
Rigid Industries LED Light bar for my future roof rack
LED rear swing-out light
ARB frig/freezer
Onboard Air compressors- 26A x2
stereo amp
12V receptacles
600W inverter

Kids start school on Monday, so i'll have a little more free time. I can swing by your part of town and show you plans Phil if you have the time. Wow, seen the price of wire at West Marine, 1/0 is $7 afoot, #2 is $5 afoot, #4 is $3 afoot. So any ideas to simplify, minimize, and help with a clean installation would be awesome.

Im actually stirring around in my head about making a a switch/gauge cluster that houses everything. Havent mocked it up yet, but it would be something that stretches from the console cupholder(the one that only holds a 12 oz can of soda) to the other side, kinda at an angle. It would hold all my switches, my OBA pressure gauge, and scan gauge.

Going to attack my front doors pretty damn soon with some fiberglass and make it look pretty, hoping to get a good idea and perhaps have an idea on how to build this console piece.
 
Contact yer Pa, CSC's get a discount at A place around the corner from his shop. Don't remember the name but remember the prices were awesome. Hope you get some good advice. ;)
 
Contact yer Pa, CSC's get a discount at A place around the corner from his shop. Don't remember the name but remember the prices were awesome. Hope you get some good advice. ;)
That would nost likely be Interstate Battery on Broadway. They do have a nice inventory and great prices. CSC does get a discount also. John
 
Most the stuff you have listed, can be designed to save you a few bucks. The rigid should come with some of IRS own cable attattched. Use it, then won't be buying your own wire and cutting or wasting what you already bought. Not sure what your OBA pulls, but could easily 'get away ' with #4. The inverter is different. I have seen a lit of them burn up, just because they wire feeding them was not up to the task. This has been on slightly larger units, 3-5k watt. What parts are you looking for?
 
It's not exactly what your looking for. But I have an underhood fuseblock that we use in police cars. Has slots for maxi fuses and arc fuses. It's called a patrol power. The wires need to be added, but is a good place for a central fuse location. Has banks that are positive, and ignition. Also has an adjustable timer if needed.
 
I ran what I think was either #6 or #8 to my 750 watt inverter with no problem, and wire went from the battery all the way back to the side panel in the 3rd row. I also used that power for my OBA. That location was alright, was one of my first mods, but then I started running a netbook for navigation, which made me run the power cord from the front to the back. My goal is all in one location, switches, relays, inverter, and branch out from there. I read Nxtacy(sp?) threads on what he has done, alot of overkill, but like where he put all his stuff, in the center console area.

I definately have to go visit my Pa, kinda miss him. I thought of you dad when I was at Costco today. :grinpimp:

See, the thing is, I know what I want, just dont know the components I need and where to buy them at, thats the problem. Anyone can tap power and make something work.
 
My $.02 - consult a wire gauge chart (http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm), use marine grade wiring, solder the connections, shrink wrap, breathe easy knowing Detour Dan won't be talking about your vehicle being the one that's on fire along side the freeway.
 
My $.02 - consult a wire gauge chart (http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm), use marine grade wiring, solder the connections, shrink wrap, breathe easy knowing Detour Dan won't be talking about your vehicle being the one that's on fire along side the freeway.

:lol::lol: good one! Surprised you didn't work in the part about; cryo the wires or the electrons will flow all willy-nilly!

It's not a boat, may handle like one, but it's not. It has lots of automotive grade wire already in it, great for the job, in fact exactly what it is intended to do. It already has thousands of crimped connections, why, maybe because, in a vibration environment (automotive) crimped connections have proven to be much more reliable than soldered. As long as it's done correctly, neither have anything to do with attracting Detour Dan.:hillbilly:
 
It may not be a boat, but you'll find marine grade wiring easier to solder, has more strands, is more pliable than standard primary wire, plus it won't corrode when exposed to moisture, which can lead to a substantial voltage loss across a circuit. That voltage drop increases the load on the circuit which equals heat.

Murf, check out the TSB's regarding wiring repairs and you'll see Toyota generally recommends soldering circuits when they need to be repaired.

Kevin, I'm surprised you aren't advocating just using wire nuts and solid wire as a "good enough solution" with a few wraps of electrical tape for good measure. What's your point of reference where crimped connections have proven themselves superior to soldiered connections in an automotive environment? Yes, most vehicles have thousands of crimped connections, but those connections are housed in a plug of some sort so tensile strength and vibration aren't really an issue.
 

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