What is wrong with the use of wire nuts? They are made to join wires, yes? I have had good results in the past. In my experience if you see electrical tape used on wire nuts they were not installed properly.
time to clean up the wires, wheres a good place to buy? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter azrider
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inkpot
SILVER Star
Properly done hand crimps on good automotive grade wire with heatshrink tube are amazingly strong and weather tight. I have some that are over 25 years old on the Piggy and they have no significant voltage drop. If wires are well mounted/secured, they will not be moving around anyway, and how waterproof do you need to be inside a car? In the desert?
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I agree that pre-tinned wire is somewhat easier to solder. But, if you cant make a good solder connection on plain old copper wire, you have no business soldering on anything.
If you need more flexible wire than standard, buy finer stranded wire. Most automotive applications don't need it.
The rig has miles of automotive grade wire in it. So what you are saying is; it is all corroding, has "substantial voltage loss" and heating, so will attract Detour Dan? What is your recommended fix, rewire the whole rig with marine wire and soldered connections? For a rig that lives in the desert?
In some applications soldering is recommended or acceptable, for most automotive applications crimp is the preferred method. I have two Toyota harness repair manuals, have been referring to them often lately, nether mentions soldering supplies or tools in the needed equipment list or refers to soldering anywhere in them. Both have lots of text about proper crimp tools and methods.
I carry wire nuts and electrical tape in my trail bag and have been known to use them. They are great for trail repairs, make solid, quick connections, especially on wires of differing sizes. They hold and handle vibration well, but are a bit bulky. IMHO, it is better to use the correct supplies and methods for the application, so wire nuts are likely better for home wiring?
Correct, some of the connectors have weather seals, they provide support for the wire. Most are not weather sealed and have no support.
The problem with soldered connections is: When properly done, the solder flows into the wire, making it solid, then stops, making the first flex point for all of the strands at the same place. In a vibration environment, this is where the strands stress/fail. Crimps allow for slightly more variation in the pinch point, makes a big difference in failure rate. Like anything its about using the best proven method for the application, solder for more static environments, crimps for better vibration life.
I have nothing against marine wire, have used lots of it, if I had some laying around, would not hesitate to use it. But would not go out of my way or spend any added $ to buy it. It's all about the application, in an automotive application it has no significant advantage over automotive wire.
In fact will take apart factory harnesses to get the wire. Prefer to make it look as factory as possible, use correct wire type, color codes, methods, etc, as often as possible. On the project that we are doing, all of the battery feeds are white, grounds are BRN-x, IGN switched feeds are BLK-BLU, etc. As often as possible, use a factory crimped connector on at least one end. As of now, have not used one inch of aftermarket wire.
If a Toyota electrical tech looked under the dash, would immediately know that it has been messed with, a circuit opening relay, ECU, etc, never came in a FJ40. But would recognize all of the circuits by their correct factory color codes for the applications.
murf
Lifer
We do the same here for wire repairs and actually have a large bin of extra harnesses we scavenge off of for this very reason. Also helps to find connectors we may need. Techs appreciate keeping the color codes consistent
.
I have a similar setup to what you are looking to run.
1800 Watt Stereo AMP 12" Sub
2x 5000w FYRLYT's
Puma Compressor
12v AUX in the rear
ARB Fridge Freezer with ARB wire harness
800 Watt Inverter
I use 4 gauge audio installer wire. It has thicker insulation to prevent chafing, its very pliable for routing and designed to carry heavy loads without burning up like wire that is the same gauge.
I also have a main circuit breaker instead of a huge fuse like some people.
My setup is similar to what an audio installer would do. I have two distribution blocks fused individually for my 10g loads.
Everything I have is crimped and tube heat shrinked to keep it in place. All of my 4 gauge wire is RTV'd where it touches metal to prevent chafing. If its good enough for ICBMs, F-16's, F-35's, its good enough for me.
It seems like you want to do this install right and are ready to spend some coin on your investment. In that case go with an audio installer they will sort you out and take all day to solder every connection if you so desire. They purchase wire at a fraction of the cost you can get it for and in the end with trial and error I am positive it will all even out $$$ wise. If you plan to purchase an audio system they will probably give you an even better deal. These guys do this stuff for a living and have all of the little bits/pieces and expertise to figure it out.
They also know how to make it all look clean and neat without that rats nest look.
1800 Watt Stereo AMP 12" Sub
2x 5000w FYRLYT's
Puma Compressor
12v AUX in the rear
ARB Fridge Freezer with ARB wire harness
800 Watt Inverter
I use 4 gauge audio installer wire. It has thicker insulation to prevent chafing, its very pliable for routing and designed to carry heavy loads without burning up like wire that is the same gauge.
I also have a main circuit breaker instead of a huge fuse like some people.
My setup is similar to what an audio installer would do. I have two distribution blocks fused individually for my 10g loads.
Everything I have is crimped and tube heat shrinked to keep it in place. All of my 4 gauge wire is RTV'd where it touches metal to prevent chafing. If its good enough for ICBMs, F-16's, F-35's, its good enough for me.
It seems like you want to do this install right and are ready to spend some coin on your investment. In that case go with an audio installer they will sort you out and take all day to solder every connection if you so desire. They purchase wire at a fraction of the cost you can get it for and in the end with trial and error I am positive it will all even out $$$ wise. If you plan to purchase an audio system they will probably give you an even better deal. These guys do this stuff for a living and have all of the little bits/pieces and expertise to figure it out.
They also know how to make it all look clean and neat without that rats nest look.
murf
Lifer
Good advise - ask to see the installers work.
If I had a nickel for ridiculous rats nests of wiring debacles weve seen..........
Its the first place we look when there is an "electrical issue" with a vehicle - good example of poor wiring = headache. I wish they never made the "quick splice" hack connectors
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I wish they never made the "quick splice" hack connectors
those did my 40 harness in
and then I look in the 80 and what do I find ?
Good advise - ask to see the installers work.
If I had a nickel for ridiculous rats nests of wiring debacles weve seen..........
Its the first place we look when there is an "electrical issue" with a vehicle - good example of poor wiring = headache. I wish they never made the "quick splice" hack connectors
Oh yeah "suitcase" connectors. Pretty sure these ARE the devil... they even come in red
Oh yeah "suitcase" connectors. Pretty sure these ARE the devil... they even come in red
Those are very common for car alarm installs. I only know of 2 shops who do not use them but you are going to pay $$$$$ and time .
In the police cars, we solder and heat shrink all connections. Anything larger than 4g does not. That's as large as we use, and that's not often.
I bought a rack of car audio wire a while back on craigslist for a good deal. It can be found here and there.
I bought a rack of car audio wire a while back on craigslist for a good deal. It can be found here and there.
- Thread starter
- #33
I used to think those "Scotchlocks were awesome!! "What a super easy way to tap into power". Yeah right, learned from that one. Im going to start my wiring next week, i'll have alot more time in the garage when both kids are in school. I kinda like to do my own work when it comes to stuff like this, the audio installer sounds like a great idea, IF you know of a good one. I had a jacked up situation at Best Buy with a amp and component system in my '99 Dodge Dakota(I sold it to get the cruiser). I arrived to pick up my truck, listened to the stereo in the work bay, sounded good and drove it out. As soon as I cranked the steering wheel to turn, I heard a "pop" and smelled smoke and no stereo. Idiots ran the power wire to close to the steering column and it gashed open the installation. Their fix? Grab some electrical tape to bandage the wire up and zip tie it up. I said "Are you serious?" "thats bull****!!" And I told them I wanted the wire replaced. Had to deal with then for weeks to get it done right. Then I noticed the tweeter locations they drilled into my door panels werent exactly the same on both doors. One was a inch farther from the door handle than the other one. Hacks!!
If you have the means, I highly recommend one of these.
TORTUS said:If you have the means, I highly recommend one of these.
I got the reference. It is so choice.
- Thread starter
- #38
what kind a tool is that, some type of "sized" crimper with dies?
Battery Op 12 ton hydraulic crimper. Commonly used in DC power applications to crimp lugs and Half taps to wire. Have dies ranging from 6awg to 750MCM (huge). Sadly something decided to stop working in it recently, smelled smoke. Not happy about that!! Especially since a decent 80 can be had for about the same price as the tool and dies!
