Time for a Front Axle Swap.........Questions ! (1 Viewer)

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Ih8mud rule of thumb......


Search and educate yourself with ?what? locker 101, will fit in my 80.....any?

Why do you need a front locker anyways. If your asking this question then you shouldn’t have one, it’s just more of a liability if you don’t know what your doing.

Ohh by the way I’ve done the Rubicon with only a rear Spartan locker 2x in one month.

So focus on a rear.
 
Ih8mud rule of thumb......


Search and educate yourself with ?what? locker 101, will fit in my 80.....any?

Why do you need a front locker anyways. If your asking this question then you shouldn’t have one, it’s just more of a liability if you don’t know what your doing.

Ohh by the way I’ve done the Rubicon with only a rear Spartan locker 2x in one month.

So focus on a rear.
By that logic I should never need more than 89hp. So bull spit. If he needs a need housing because it's bent and runs across a locked one, why not.
 
By that logic I should never need more than 89hp. So bull spit. If he needs a need housing because it's bent and runs across a locked one, why not.

But why run a front locker if your never going to use it.

It will help a little if you really determined, and ahem maybe brake something.

Use the extra money with buying a stock housing (from a locked housing and all the gadgets that will make it work properly) and buy a really good winch that doesn’t sound like a bag of rocks.
 
But why run a front locker if your never going to use it.

It will help a little if you really determined, and ahem maybe brake something.

Use the extra money with buying a stock housing (from a locked housing and all the gadgets that will make it work properly) and buy a really good winch that doesn’t sound like a bag of rocks.
You’re right. I concede. Anybody want a locked 80? I’m going go buy a pre-runner.
 
If your gonna have one locker, it's best in the rear. Why not just buy the housing you need somewhere one the web and have it shipped to you and then swap over all your parts to it?? This seems like the most economical solution.
 
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FWIW, I've been where you are.

-A new front axle housing was $1500 (from memory) - luckily I'd already planned to swap in e-lockers & got the hard parts as a pkg from Slee, had to add the harnesses that were missing but had parts in hand. $2K to Slee, $3-400 in harnesses.

If you're leaking diff fluid from the 3rd member flange, you probably are eating metal in the 3rd - I shattered the drive cuff the PS inner driveshaft goes in, and ate the splines off the shaft.
-Inner shafts are ~$125 ea side.

Ended up buying new spindles too, I killed the PS one & a pair seemed like smart $$$.
-I forget how much $$$.
The hit made the PS birfield click, so fed Dan's dogs & new pair installed.
-$1K
While I was converting to e-lockers, I decided to go 4.88's.
-IDR the cost, seems like Just Differentials saw ~$1500 of my $$$.

Long story short, I had burned $5K in parts to make 1 new front axle, freshen the rear axle. And that's not counting having the E-locker hard parts in hand.
Ballpark ~$7K :mad::mad::confused::confused:, all in.

Still want to add that front locker? :hmm:

Granted, my axles are now 100% as new & have I great spindle & birf for spares, but if you ever plan on selling your 80 I'd just add a CDL switch & pin 7 mod, maybe a winch.

If I was ever to sell my 80, that money isn't going to be recouped - I know it.
 
i have an empty housing and some radius arms. could get you running cheap.
 
But why run a front locker if your never going to use it.

It will help a little if you really determined, and ahem maybe brake something.

Use the extra money with buying a stock housing (from a locked housing and all the gadgets that will make it work properly) and buy a really good winch that doesn’t sound like a bag of rocks.

The closest non locked axle assembly I can find is an 8 hour drive. A parts yard 60 miles away has 2 locked cruisers. That's why I am wanting to know if the locked axle will work with a rear non locked. Its a matter of getting my truck back on the road.
 
Don't rush out and and buy these tools sizes if you don't already have them.

I'm fairly sure you need 24mm and 22mm.

I've had suspension apart many times, and I know I don't own a 29mm socket, and the 32mm socket I have is welded in the end of my hilift jack (long story) so, I'd remember using it on radius arm bolts.

After I typed it, I was thinking the same thing. I remember being really pissed that the track bar at the front used different bolts. Because why not have 1 tool that did all the suspension bolts? I had to get back up off the ground and find the correct size.
Whatever size the diff drain plug is is the same as the suspension bolts except that track bar
 

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