Time Capsule, 67 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mtntopper
- Start date
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ClemsonCruiser
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Looks great! Maybe you could try wax or a polishing compound to add some sheen to
the hood. I’ve had great luck in the past getting old chalky paint to shine up again.
the hood. I’ve had great luck in the past getting old chalky paint to shine up again.
Here: Land Cruiser Bumper, Frame, Skidplates 40, 45, & 55 Series - https://www.sor.com/cat106.sor#106-19A
About 2/3 of the way down. Figures Marv would have made these available.
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Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks
I keep retyping my “formula” for old Patina preservation so I decided to make a thread so I can just link my response to how I preserve my old Land Cruisers the way I do. For the last 3 years I have been learning how to preserve Land Cruisers in their original state. Protecting their original...
forum.ih8mud.com
Likely you are well aware of this thread...great tips for reviving old single stage paint.
Mtntopper
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #126
I'm concerned about access to the back side of the rivet. On this photo, the screwdriver tip indicates where the center of the shock tower is mounted directly above.Here: Land Cruiser Bumper, Frame, Skidplates 40, 45, & 55 Series - https://www.sor.com/cat106.sor#106-19A
About 2/3 of the way down. Figures Marv would have made these available.
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How did the "new" drivers side fender now line up with the "new" hood ?
Mtntopper
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #130
Not sure I can get a wrench inside the frame rail either, but my leading idea so far is to try grade 8 bolts. Ideally welded from the backside and ground down on the front side a bit. I think if the shock tower ever gets loose, just grind, drill and cut out the old bolts and set new bolts. Obviously not as good as a rivet, but not sure how to anvil the inside of the rivets inside the frame rail.Here: Land Cruiser Bumper, Frame, Skidplates 40, 45, & 55 Series - https://www.sor.com/cat106.sor#106-19A
About 2/3 of the way down. Figures Marv would have made these available.
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If you could get a (DIY-fabbed?) jack screw, with a concave head, in the frame rail, then you could shape the head of the rivet on the shock tower side?
Personally, I'd get a mid-grade, fine-thread, metric bolt, with lockwasher, and anti-sieze, and fasten it down, knowing that it wouldn't have quite as much service life. And, actually, if the rivet was wacked out of place, I'd consider the possibility of a compromised shock tower, as it is a cast piece? I'd definitely not weld a high-grade (SAE grade 8) bolt.
Personally, I'd get a mid-grade, fine-thread, metric bolt, with lockwasher, and anti-sieze, and fasten it down, knowing that it wouldn't have quite as much service life. And, actually, if the rivet was wacked out of place, I'd consider the possibility of a compromised shock tower, as it is a cast piece? I'd definitely not weld a high-grade (SAE grade 8) bolt.
I claim no expertise.
If the high-grade bolt was manufactured by a process with quench and temper, its properties will change uncontrollably with welding, perhaps becoming brittle in areas, and no longer a bit elastic/ductile (like it was rendered during the tempering process).
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Toyota set the shock towers on after the inner and outer frame rails were assembled...I think. Who knows what kind of hydraulics they had to install and set those little red hot mushrooms. To do it in place you'd have to start with the preformed head inside the rail with the shank protruding through to the exterior. Then wedge it in place with some tapered steel blocks and heat up the shank and pound it into shape with a rivet set or the like. Might take a few heats/tries so I don't know if that has any consequences for the metal of the rivet. Looking at the formed-in -place heads on the rivets on my '78 frame, they don't seem to have been done all that well. Probably just my luck
I think it's important to remember that we're not talking about an spring hanger or an engine mount bracket. Shock towers take some force but they (generally) don't support the vehicle's weight on these older rigs. Grade 5 is probably good enough but that's only a guess on my part. One way or the other you'll need to see if the holes in the frame were elongated from the impact or if the rivets stretched/broke.
Are all frame rivets the same diameter?
Mtntopper
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #139
Not sure if all frame rivets are the same diameter.Toyota set the shock towers on after the inner and outer frame rails were assembled...I think. Who knows what kind of hydraulics they had to install and set those little red hot mushrooms. To do it in place you'd have to start with the preformed head inside the rail with the shank protruding through to the exterior. Then wedge it in place with some tapered steel blocks and heat up the shank and pound it into shape with a rivet set or the like. Might take a few heats/tries so I don't know if that has any consequences for the metal of the rivet. Looking at the formed-in -place heads on the rivets on my '78 frame, they don't seem to have been done all that well. Probably just my luck
I think it's important to remember that we're not talking about an spring hanger or an engine mount bracket. Shock towers take some force but they (generally) don't support the vehicle's weight on these older rigs. Grade 5 is probably good enough but that's only a guess on my part. One way or the other you'll need to see if the holes in the frame were elongated from the impact or if the rivets stretched/broke.
Are all frame rivets the same diameter?
The plan is to grind the heads off the four shock tower rivets, then drill and punch them out. The existing rivet holes will then be drilled slightly larger for the bolts. Hopefully that will take care of any holes that were stretched during the impact.
