tighten your belts folks

semlin

semlin

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Hi folks, more adventures of a non-wrench trying to DIY. I have yet to find a molehill I can’t turn into a mountain. I am trying to change my belts but after dutifully consulting the FSM I’m not clear on the order I should re-tighten the bolts, nor do I know how to accurately set the tension. I dutifully went to a reputable parts store to get a belt tension meter and the guy said I was nuts, they didn’t even carry them, and to tighten it to half an inch of play, run it for five minutes then tighten again. As for tightening, I am worried about stripping something. Would the correct order be pivot bolt, adjustment bolt, lock bolt? Also, I can’t see the head of the adjusting bolt but it feels like there is a some kind of a hex key fitting. Anyone know whether it’s a hex head or a star or what? Should I use this rather than the bolt head?
 
Eduardo96FZJ80

Eduardo96FZJ80

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Apr 1, 2003
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Semlin,
I just did mine the other day. Not sure if your rig is the same as mine, but I had pretty good luck working from underneath.
I removed the skid plate for access. If you saw my post to C-Dan, you might of noticed I damaged the nut on the AC tensioner pulley. If @ all possible, use a six sided socket, less chance of "stripping" nuts or bolts. I do not own a belt tensioner guage. One thing for sure, is not over tighten the belts. This can lead to premature bearing failure, from the water pump, AC, Alternator. etc.
Hope this helps.
Eduardo
 
Eduardo96FZJ80

Eduardo96FZJ80

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I just re-read your post;

The tensioner bolts on mine are 12mm bolts.
The pivot bolt on the Alternator was a 14mm bolt, and if I recall correctly so was the locking bolt.

As for the correct sequence, both the pivot, and locking bolt must be lose in order for the tensioner bolts to be of any use.

I hope this makes some sense.

Eduardo
 
semlin

semlin

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Thanks Eduardo, I seem to always miss the posts that turn out to be useful. I had looked at the skid plate and wondered if removing it might help. I will try it. The FSM also says to unbolt the p/s reservoir.

Calling it the 12mm tensioner bolt issue is now ringing a bell from a long ago post. Is the bolt tapered by any chance? If so then I am sure there is a hex or star head inside.
 
Eduardo96FZJ80

Eduardo96FZJ80

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Apr 1, 2003
Messages
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Semlin,
I don't recall noticing if the "inside" of the bolt head had a "star or hex" but both tensioner bolts were about 4-5 inches long. I was able to loosen them enough to get the old belts off and the new ones on without messing with PS pump.
The new belts go on a little tight. but you should be able to slip them on. Just take your time and you should be ok.
Good luck
Eduardo
and a cool engine helps a lot!!
:beer: :beer:
 
landtoy80

landtoy80

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I ordered a new alt bolt and it doesn't have the Hex hole on the bolt end :cry:
When you say star do you mean philips head? Hold a measuring tape to the belt and move the belt. When it moves 1/2" it should be good.
The tool I use is a S-K T-30 #42930
I think the T is torques?? If so, it is a torques head. It look like a badge from a sherif.
kurt
 
landtoy80

landtoy80

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The part # for the alt bolt I got is 91511-C0835.
I need to ask my new dealer if it is the right # as I didn't get charged for it.
kurt
 
Eduardo96FZJ80

Eduardo96FZJ80

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Rouge,
Not necessarily funny, but sticking your bare forearms in and around a warm engine kinda hurts :-/

I shulda had a few :beer: :beer: or mowed the lawn first :G
Eduardo
 
landtoy80

landtoy80

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Messages
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Location
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91511-C0835 is the right bolt but doesn't have the torques head :mad:
I will have to find a source that sells metric torques head bolts.
kurt
 
semlin

semlin

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So I'm surfing on the 80scool archive to confirm it's a torx head to adjust (I'm buying some torx heads) and I came across the attached thread from 3 years ago. read down to see who was asking the original question!!!! We were all newbies once I guess :D :G

From: "Davin Lim" <Davin.Lim@xilinx.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 13:33:02 -0700
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 15:33:44 -0500
References: <013601bf8acc$1cb8d560$721ff7ce@interpex.com>

If it is at all similar to the 93/94 1FZ, then it's a relatively straightforward
job. The only challenging bit is loosening (and later tightening) the locking
bolt on the alternator. On the 93/94, access to this torx-headed bolt is
complicated by the path of the belts themselves. Not a big deal, but quarters
are a bit tight to easily maneuver the torx-bit and extension.

Of course, make sure you use non-toothed (inner running surface is flat) belts
that are a matched set (same lot #). This is exactly what you'll get if you buy
them from Toyota - aftermarket isn't such a sure thing.

-Davin

Christo Slee wrote:

> I will be changing V-belts on my 95 tomorrow. Any tips & hints?
>
> Christo Slee | Lakewood CO USA | christo@sleeoffroad.com
> http://www.sleeoffroad.coma
>
> 95 FZJ80 | slee-sliders | slee-skid plate | hi-lift mount on
> factory roof rack | custom tire carrier and 2" receiver mounted
> on tjm bumper | arb commerical bar | warn 8274 | arb f&r lockers
>
 

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