TIFU by pulling someone out of the snow… (1 Viewer)

[HAAANK]

yea everyone needs to stop saying "third member" is the problem. Toyota designed the driveline to have 'fusible links' that break before the expensive parts do (in order to protect them), these fusible links are the hub studs. Way more common (and cheaper) to blow those out than a birfield, axle shaft, third member or drive shaft.

Great point. By hub studs do you mean hub bolts?
Also, the linked FSM is 1million times better than the disparate collection of PDFs I previously had and I'm super stoked the TOC is linked. Happy camper this guy rn

 

[SmokingRocks]

Glad you like the new FSM, Im really happy with it. Makes finding things so much easier. Make sure you open the bookmarks view, its the fastest way to navigate the FSM

No not those studs, these studs. If they are broken you will see the flange (clouded in red) spinning while the wheel is not when in 4high in drive and foot on the brake.

 

[HAAANK]

Glad you like the new FSM, Im really happy with it. Makes finding things so much easier. Make sure you open the bookmarks view, its the fastest way to navigate the FSM

No not those studs, these studs. If they are broken you will see the flange (clouded in red) spinning while the wheel is not when in 4high in drive and foot on the brake.
View attachment 2900061

perfect! Thanks for the clarification.

 

[SmokingRocks]

It'll be really obvious, you'll see the studs, washers, and nuts missing. And probably see grease seeping out

 

[HAAANK]

Glad you like the new FSM, Im really happy with it. Makes finding things so much easier. Make sure you open the bookmarks view, its the fastest way to navigate the FSM

No not those studs, these studs. If they are broken you will see the flange (clouded in red) spinning while the wheel is not when in 4high in drive and foot on the brake.
View attachment 2900061

what page is this on?

 

[HAAANK]

It'll be really obvious, you'll see the studs, washers, and nuts missing. And probably see grease seeping out

Yeah, good call. I figured there might be some obvious visual indicators for this issue

 

[SmokingRocks]

 

[BILT4ME]

In order to check from least costly to most costly:

Stripped Drive Flange (Pull the cap from the hub to see the axle shaft spins)
Drive Flange hub Bolts (As listed above by @SmokingRocks )
Sheared spider gears in front differential (must disassemble entire front end to access.)
Sheared teeth from ring and or pinion in front differential (must disassemble entire front end to access.)


The front ring and pinion are well known to munch with simple reverse actions. Another individual here backed up to pull a small bush from his front yard and destroyed his ring gear.

Gears will be expensive. Total front end rebuild plus gears done by a shop will be in the $2500 range IMO.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Good call on the sheared splines, another easy check although I've never seen those actually let go in my experience. I've had to replace hub studs on 4 occasions twice being on my rig. Also blowing out gears usually makes grinding sounds when driving.

The studs sheer like this.

 

[SmokingRocks]

figure out whats broken and let us know.

If it turns out to be the gears just know it's not hard to do yourself if you have the time, patience and desire to learn. It can save you a lot of $$

 

[Broski]

figure out whats broken and let us know, it's not hard to do your own gears if you have the time, patience and desire to learn. It can save you a lot of $$

And some specialty tools.

Some things are better left to a Professional, especially when there getting a price break on the parts. JMHO

 

[SmokingRocks]

And some specialty tools.

Some things are better left to a Professional, especially when there getting a price break on the parts. JMHO

Thanks to bezo's you can get a decent magnetic dial indicator for ~$40, some gear paint for $15, and an in/lb-ft wrench for $25. Get some L angle from home depot, drill some holes in it, bolt it to your workbench and you've got a cheap carrier holder, overall about $100 of tools n stuff. That's about all you need. The rest of it comes down to patience, understanding and following the process outlined in the FSM, youtube university, & info from friends who have some experience.

I get the value of having a pro do it and if that's the way someone chooses I totally respect that. Regardless, I am a proponent of learning to DIY if you have the aptitude, time, and ability.

 

[SNLC]

I would not suggest using a cheap torque wrench on your Cruiser.

Cheers

 

[Broski]

Thanks to bezo's you can get a decent magnetic dial indicator for ~$40, some gear paint for $15, and an in/lb-ft wrench for $25. Get some L angle from home depot, drill some holes in it, bolt it to your workbench and you've got a cheap carrier holder, overall about $100 of tools n stuff. That's about all you need. The rest of it comes down to patience, understanding and following the process outlined in the FSM, youtube university, & info from friends who have some experience.

I get the value of having a pro do it and if that's the way someone chooses I totally respect that. Regardless, I am a proponent of learning to DIY if you have the aptitude, time, and ability.

Ha ha I actually have the tools, but when I priced the gear set and then got a price from American gear Local to me the difference in price was small enough for me to not want to mess with with it.
I also feel more confident on the trail having a professional do it.

And I don't buy cheap tools

PS If the OP doesn't know what a hub stud is this is probably over his head. No offense intended

 

[SmokingRocks]

I would not suggest using a cheap torque wrench on your Cruiser.

Cheers

better than no torque wrench.

It's not hard to test the accuracy of any torque wrench at home with just a pull scale (or torque adapter) & a vice. Unless you absolutely want to you don't need to spend 300-500 on a snap-on torque wrench you just need to know how your wrench reads and how to calibrate them. I've seen high-dollar 'calibrated' torque wrenches just as far off the mark as a harbor freight one.

 

[BILT4ME]

Ha ha I actually have the tools, but when I priced the gear set and then got a price from American gear Local to me the difference in price was small enough for me to not want to mess with with it.
I also feel more confident on the trail having a professional do it.

And I don't buy cheap tools

PS If the OP doesn't know what a hub stud is this is probably over his head. No offense intended

I also already own all the tools to set up a R&P. I've done enough of them to know what I DON'T want to work on.

I will pay someone else to rebuild that part for me.

 

[HAAANK]

I'm somewhere in the middle I guess. I bought my cruiser to learn how to work on cars and so far so good. these days I'm a little quicker to hand it over to a good mechanic. We'll see, I'm not too proud to use pros. I have a pretty decent amount of tools but not a magnetic dial indicator. And damnit @Broski I know what a hub stud is, just didn't see them on the explosion at first, I promise lol. Btw no offense taken.

 

[HAAANK]

View attachment 2900074

hmmm... mine looks a little different:

 

[SmokingRocks]

Yea it will because all of those bubbles are my notes. Every time I need to order a part or whatever I add a note in my copy of the FSM the part number, that way in the future it saves me from having to dig for it. But the next page that I added to the FSM file has the cheat sheet with all the part numbers for everything in the front steering knuckles.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I also already own all the tools to set up a R&P. I've done enough of them to know what I DON'T want to work on.

I will pay someone else to rebuild that part for me.

This says a lot to me.

The trick seems to be actually finding a shop that is experienced and will work with you and is happy to accept your thirds AND works with the preferred gear you want to use.