TIFU by pulling someone out of the snow… (1 Viewer)

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Did you confirm what it is ?
If it was the third it would not drive in low with out noise 😉
i did try to lock up everything but the front indicator light was blinking so I don't know if it ever engaged
 
No need to freak tho, IF it is the front diff you need a R&P and bearings, about $400ish. Not super cheap but not the end of the world. Toyota diffs are some of the easiest to rebuild and slap back into action.
if this eff up costs less than $1k I'll be happy. happier if less than $500. How many bananas is this job? I've done the knuckles and found that to be straightforward enough to be really confident in doing it again if needed.
 
If it moves in low but not in hi then it's not the third.
Check the front drive flanges
 
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When you shift to low the ECU lock the center diff providing 50-50 power to both axles.
When the center Diff lock is not engaged the power is sent to the differential with the lease traction.
If you stripped a drive flange all power will be sent to the front axle and you will not move.
It’s a one banana job to fix that and not that expensive
 
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Time to jack up the front wheels with the engine off, transmission in park, manually rotate each wheel and report back what noises or movement occurs. Based upon those results we can give further instructions.
 
This button allows selectable locking of the center differential in high and low.
In low, the CDL is automatically locked sending power 50% front and 50% back.
In high without the CDL, the differential will send power to the axle with the least resistance. If your 3rd is broken, then it is sending power to that 3rd. To verify, you could have someone look underneath the Cruiser while you press the accelerator with the transfer case in high. If only the front driveshaft spins, the front axle ring or pinion is toast. A locked CDL will mask a broken third.
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You can use the ECT button to do this in the 93-94. Just pop that section of the dash open, find the un-used plug (its on the same pigtail as the ECT button) then plug the ECT button into that.

But if it moves in 4lo then its simple, You blew your hub studs, or something similar.

In 4hi put it in drive and keep your foot on the brake. Have someone walk to the front wheels and see if one of the drive flanges is spinning. If none of them are have them look under the rig and see if the front driveshaft is spinning.

Download your Factory Service Manual at the link below, you need it. It can help you understand how your rig works and how to fix it.
 
This button allows selectable locking of the center differential in high and low.
In low, the CDL is automatically locked sending power 50% front and 50% back.
In high without the CDL, the differential will send power to the axle with the least resistance. If your 3rd is broken, then it is sending power to that 3rd. To verify, you could have someone look underneath the Cruiser while you press the accelerator with the transfer case in high. If only the front driveshaft spins, the front axle ring or pinion is toast. A locked CDL will mask a broken third.
View attachment 2899142
This is very misleading, any number of things could be wrong in the front axle !!!!
 
You can use the ECT button to do this in the 93-94. Just pop that section of the dash open, find the un-used plug (its on the same pigtail as the ECT button) then plug the ECT button into that.

But if it moves in 4lo then its simple, You blew your hub studs, or something similar.

In 4hi put it in drive and keep your foot on the brake. Have someone walk to the front wheels and see if one of the drive flanges is spinning. If none of them are have them look under the rig and see if the front driveshaft is spinning.

Download your Factory Service Manual at the link below, you need it. It can help you understand how your rig works and how to fix it.
This ^^^^^^^
 
if this eff up costs less than $1k I'll be happy. happier if less than $500. How many bananas is this job? I've done the knuckles and found that to be straightforward enough to be really confident in doing it again if needed.
You need to diagnose the problem for sure first off. But they are not that bad, just need proper tools, good research, and attention to detail.
 
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Time to jack up the front wheels with the engine off, transmission in park, manually rotate each wheel and report back what noises or movement occurs. Based upon those results we can give further instructions.
I'm going to wait a few days, I think less snow and more fahrenheit are on the horizon. then I'll take a closer look...working in the driveway in winter is possibly the worst...
 
I'm going to wait a few days, I think less snow and more fahrenheit are on the horizon. then I'll take a closer look...working in the driveway in winter is possibly the worst...
I have a small shop in the backyard and sometimes complain it’s too small.
The Wife always says be happy with what you got.
Why are they always right 🤷‍♂️
 
I blue my front third last summer during Rubithon pulling a broken Rig down the trail.
It still made the hole trail and out Cadillac hill and all the way around to Loon where the tow Reg was parked.
It was making a bad noise and I was not sure what it was tell I got home and started investigating, as soon as I pulled the front drain plug I new what was up.
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By pulling the third myself I was able to get it replaced by a professional for $600.
Setting up a ring and pinion is a little tricky and above my paygrade ;)

PS from your description I still don't think that's your problem.
 
yea everyone needs to stop saying "third member" is the problem. Toyota designed the driveline to have 'fusible links' that break before the expensive parts do (in order to protect them), these fusible links are the hub studs. Way more common (and cheaper) to blow those out than a birfield, axle shaft, third member or drive shaft.
 
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