For me I prefer to just pull cable that way I know I’m not going to break anything in the drive line. Yes it takes more time. But that’s what the winch is for. 
TIFU by pulling someone out of the snow… (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter HAAANK
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
“Slow is fast, and fast is slow.” My kids are sick of me telling them this.
Anything is a snatch strap if you want it to be.
- Thread starter
- #124
It was snowy and icy so I’m sure there was turning while reversing. Thanks for th knowledge
Just curious but would winching someone out with the truck in park have the same risk to the diff?
No. However, you need to hold your brakes anyway because unless you have your CDL engaged, it will slide a tire or two.
There is a risk of breaking the parking pawl I'm the transmission if you winch just in park.
There was a guy here that hooked his winch to a shrub in his front yard, then backed up with the truck and that was enough to destroy his ring and pinion.
NO
For one you should set the parking brake, someone should be in the drivers seat with there foot on the brakes.
Ha ha
ChaseTruck
--
I'll echo what's been stated several times already: trans in park & foot on the service brake while winching, rpm's up a bit via throttle/hand throttle to let the alternator do its job. And backing but while the winch is hooked up is generally not a great idea.
And all this talk about breaking the 80 front R&P while backing up with a heavy load has me quite skittish about using 80 axles in my rock crawler plans. I want something lightweight overall, but my thoughts start to circle back to a D60...
And all this talk about breaking the 80 front R&P while backing up with a heavy load has me quite skittish about using 80 axles in my rock crawler plans. I want something lightweight overall, but my thoughts start to circle back to a D60...
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Folks, y'all need to study a reverse rotation HP and standard rotation LP diff. Once you understand their mechanics this all goes moot. 80s are wheeling HARD with upgraded birfs and are reliable wheelers. Don't knock the diff until you have your head around how it works and where its limitations are. And remember...no axle is failproof.
I would not worry about 80 axles, while I love Mud and all the knowledge here People tend to over exaggerate problems here.
My 80 is a purpose built street legal off road rock crawler on 39s and its holding up just fine. I take it to all the hard places Johnson Valley (KOH) Sand Hollow the Rubicon and all sierra trails to name a few. I don't baby it !
The reverse cut gears in the 80 front diff seem like a good idea, as they are strongest while moving forward, which is the direction you go most of the time. In reality, the trailing axle (rear axle when moving forward, front axle when reversing) takes most of the load, so there is a disadvantage to reverse cut gears when reversing under load- especially if the vehicle is heavy, which many built 80's are.
In a build, there are always compromises. In your case it's strength vs. weight. Is your rock crawler going to be over 2 tons or so, and/or have 40"+ tires? If so, in my opinion (with absolutely no science to back it up) the 80 axles aren't the best choice. In a lighter vehicle and tires up to 37" the 80 axles won't be overstressed, and will then help keep the unsprung and total vehicle weight down.
All that being said- I know you, and you're going to end up going with massive super strong axles, no matter what.
I would not worry about 80 axles, while I love Mud and all the knowledge here People tend to over exaggerate problems here.
My 80 is a purpose built street legal off road rock crawler on 39s and its holding up just fine. I take it to all the hard places Johnson Valley (KOH) Sand Hollow the Rubicon and all sierra trails to name a few. I don't baby it !
I have a serious question, as I have watched many of your videos and enjoy watching what you do.
Do you do much in the way of reversing, such as reversing up an incline or forward and backward in a deep mud hole?
I have lots of experience of early GM 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks in deep mud as well as pulling. I have not seen or experienced exploding an R&P doing hard reversing in a "sticky" situation.
That said, I also would NEVER tow or pull in reverse and I wave watched MANY people do this in those trucks with the reasoning that "I have more traction on the front due to the weight of the engine, so I can pull in reverse." None of these had a high pinion front diff.
Then, seeing folks here that wreck a R&P backing up to pull out a shrub really bothers me. I am concerned if I am in deep mud and start banging forward and reverse to get out that I'm going to munch the front R&P in mine. Driving style also has a LOT to do with wrecking things and how hard you are on/off the throttle.
Looking at significant differences between the GM (Dana) axles and Toyota, the tie rod location on the Toyota is in a MUCH smarter place, being on the rear so the tie rod is in tension in a hard pull situation. The tie rod on a Dana is on the front so it is in compression on a hard pull and frequently will collapse when pulling or digging hard.
So Toyota is incredible for going forward, but shows it's weakness in reverse.
Thoughts?
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
What does that do
If you're not in the vehicle with the brake on, the parking brake will reduce the pressure on the parking pawl through driveline braking.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
Also you shouldn't winch in Park, I'd prefer slipping forward and realizing I need to dead-man my rig to something rather than grenade my parking pawl. Winc in Neutral with your foot on the brake.
Last edited:
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
^^me more often than I’d care to admit…
Honestly I try to avoid backing up as I know it's the weakest link in my drive line. That being said I have been in situation rock crawling that I was stuck going forward and had to reverse over big rock and be harder on the drive train then I wanted. Nothing broke
Also IH8MUD and try to stay out of it as much as possible, but I did go to the Cruising the woods Event in Oregon a few years ago and it was all mud and big rock. there was a lot of spinning of the tires forward and reverse. again nothing broke. back then I was still on 37s
To be fair I don't let testosterone take over, If my rig starts bouncing I let of the gas and try another line. For me rock crawling is a technical sport picking the right line not a brute force kind of thing.
Also if after a few tries I don't make it over an obstacle (even if other guys in our group did) I will pull cable. I like wheeling better the wrenching.
More times the not when I see Guys breaking sh**t it because there beating on the Rig usually there letting their pride get in the way, well if he made I should be able to make it.
As far as pulling stumps I think it's a lot harder on a rig, pulling on a stationary object as opposed to being stuck in the mud and not getting traction
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
For those interested...there's a reason guys move to GM/Corporate 14s and Ford 9s. Supported pinions. This whole forward reverse business goes out the window.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
“Slow is smooth and smooth is fast” is the way I learned it! Semper fi!
