Tie Rod Rubbing On Control Arms (1 Viewer)

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The diff is above the tie rod. I'd do some measuring for clearance up there before doing and drilling.

And the problem the OP had has been corrected now on my end.

They say you need 3/8" at rest. So if you came up that much, i have about 2 inches before im close to the diff..

Is that correct about the 3/8"?
 
3/8" is about minimum I think but if you have that kind of room I'd go for a 1/2".

This is what i plan on making. Two heim joints. Remove the taper in the knuckle. bolt it in place, space it up a little bit. so with the grinding, and the spacing, it will clear EASY. Still room under the differential also.

Any ideas on how thick the pipe should be. Im tapping the ends.
bar.jpg
 
Couldn't I just change out the ends of my HD Bud Built toe rod to hemi's?
 
Couldn't I just change out the ends of my HD Bud Built toe rod to hemi's?

I couldnt find a heim joint that would screw into the factory location. But how hard is it to get some thick tube, and tap the ends and screw in and lock down a heim joint. NOt hard at all..
 
I would considere myself pretty lucky by running slee caster plates with 4" OME comp coils and enough clearance in my rod vs control arms ..
 
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I think 1.25" tubing would be just about right.

Ok, went to the local 4x4 store and found the following.
2 heim joints 38000 lb load bearing
2 plugs ( the slide into the pipe and have threads already)
1 chromoly 4 foot tube 1/4 in thick.

Im puttin it together today. Im taking pictures and what not. This thing should be SUPPPPERRRRR solid.
 
I would considere myself prettu lucky by running slee caster plates with 4" OME comp coils and enough clearance in my rod vs control arms ..

The original poster of this thread had my 1st Generation plates.

The problem was a case by case situation that had to do with slight variances between trucks and what kind of terrain they traversed.

With the redesign of my plates some time ago the problem has been eliminated.
 

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