Tie Rod Rubbing On Control Arms (1 Viewer)

TOY350

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Just like it says, my tie rod is rubbing my control arms. I have J springs, no spacers and Landtank's caster correction plates up front. Perfect caster. When I brought this up before the solution given was "grind your control arms for clearance" which I haven't done and not too sure I want to. How many other people are experiencing this and has there been any other solutions thus far?
Tie rod 1.jpg
Tie rod 3.jpg
Tie rod 4.jpg
 

e9999

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yup, bit of a crapshoot, some need it, others don't. But it starts appearing at around 2.5" lift or so. Seems like the only obvious solution is grinding it. I don't like that. (It's apparently pretty hard stuff too.)
 

Cruiserdrew

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With a moderate lift, it may be enough to just grind down the casting ridge.

I took about 1/8 inch total, and need to go back and take a bit more.
 

e9999

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I have to say that I never read of a ground one breaking in 2 there, so these things must be amply strong.
 

TOY350

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I have to say that I never read of a ground one breaking in 2 there, so these things must be amply strong.

I haven't either but just the though of a control arm breaking is what has me nervous, I pack the family in and hit highway speeds with this. I could see checking for stress cracks on a daily basis just to ease my paranoia. :)

So it sounds like nobody is grinding through the whole thick upper section then, which I was hoping was not the case.
 

sleeoffroad

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I thought it doesn't happen with Landtanks plates? :D

Seriously, just grind them. Taking an 1/8" of the arm on the casting ridge is going to do very little to the strength of those arms. Or you could buy our arms, then you won't have that problem :D
 

e9999

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maybe one could futz around with the TREs, raising them up a bit with a spacer or something...? Or use a longer tie rod with a couple of kinks in it?
 
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maybe one could futz around with the TREs, raising them up a bit with a spacer or something...? Or use a longer tie rod with a couple of kinks in it?

Neither of those ideas sounds good to me. The tie rods attach with a tapered fit, so you can't use spacers there. Bending the tie rod is creating weak points.

There is one other option, to get rid of the tie rod behind the axle and put it in front, I believe there's a kit floating around somewhere. Not cheap.

-Spike
 
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I thought it doesn't happen with Landtanks plates? :D

Seriously, just grind them. Taking an 1/8" of the arm on the casting ridge is going to do very little to the strength of those arms. Or you could buy our arms, then you won't have that problem :D

Yep I never brought it up but I also had to grind my control arms with LandTank's plates. Not a big deal but the control arms are made of some very strong steel and worn down my 4.5" disk more than I would have expected.

Remember also that the rod will rub the arms MORE on the edges under flex, so take off more around the edges. Also when you jack it up with the tires off, turn the steering stop to stop to accuratly mark where the rod rubs the arms.
 
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Mine were touching with slee's plates. I had a bit too much caster IMHO for my lift height but it sure tracked well. That metal is real tuff and i had to grind for a while to get it right. I'll post some pics when i get home as they are on my home PC.
 

TOY350

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Thanks Concrete. Bear could you post a pic too? I wouldn't mind seeing a few these before I take out the grinder.

Now Christo, how much for the other 3 inches of lift I need so I can run your arms instead? :)
 

e9999

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Neither of those ideas sounds good to me. The tie rods attach with a tapered fit, so you can't use spacers there. Bending the tie rod is creating weak points.
snip
-Spike

both easy to overcome with minimal fabbing but probably a moot point if the arms are still plenty strong when ground
 

landtank

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I have a HD tierod in the garage and will be grinding my arms for that to fit. The arms really only space the axle out from the frame so they are plenty strong enough even after the grinding.
 

landtank

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I think the rubbing with my plates is in a different area than that of Slee's. If you look at toy350's pic the rubbing on the arm is where you would first have to turn the wheel some. As you turn the wheel the rod moves down along the arm so it won't be up where CJ's pic shows but closer to the axle.
 

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