Tie rod replacement advice......my rod is bent :( (1 Viewer)

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I don't remember it being expensive at the dealer $30-40

thats what the ends cost, its about 230-250 for a complete toe bar.

i replaced mine with a trail gear bar and so far so good, the end on the driver side had play in it. it ended up being about 140 shipped and changes over to a jam nut instead of the sleeve style
 
I just had the Slee bars put in. I had to get an alignment done, post lift and everything was rusted solid. I decided to go with the whole Slee system, stronger and easier to align when needed. $115 for the Tie rod and 52 for each end.

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As the title states.....my tie rod is bent and is contacting my drive shaft at certain steering angles. I was walking by my truck yesterday and noticed something shiny and not covered in mud underneath that caught my eye. It was spinning metal contacting stationary metal.

Anyway after some thread searching I've learned that as usual places like trail gear and what not are junk. I don't want to go through the trouble of reaming for the 1 ton TRE's. I think my final decision is to get a new rod from Slee and then order up the 555 ends from cruiser outfitters. Can anyone think of any reason that this isn't a good route, or suggest a better route? Most of my wheeling is mild with some occasional rocks that I encounter down in KY.

Cruiser Outfitters

Slee - Steering products
well that exact set up Slee/555 is what I run and they are sweet. 555 are tough and very very well built JMO
 
Take it off, and to a shop or a friend with a press and straighten it. Are you sure it's even bent? Mine contacts in that area at full steering wheel lock, because my arms allow more flex than most setups. Doesn't bother me since it happens so rarely.
 
Take it off, and to a shop or a friend with a press and straighten it. Are you sure it's even bent? Mine contacts in that area at full steering wheel lock, because my arms allow more flex than most setups. Doesn't bother me since it happens so rarely.

Here I thought you would post a pic of your draglink to show what bent really is??
 
Here I thought you would post a pic of your draglink to show what bent really is??
Meh, drag links are easy to bend. :hillbilly:
 
Bigred was right. I got the ends from the dealer and the rod from Cruiseryard.
 
Take it off, and to a shop or a friend with a press and straighten it. Are you sure it's even bent? Mine contacts in that area at full steering wheel lock, because my arms allow more flex than most setups. Doesn't bother me since it happens so rarely.
Did you see the picture?
 
I saw, and see the picture. There's no way to tell from the pic that it's bent, only that there is contact with the dust shield. Did you read the part where my tie rod contacts the dust shield, even though it's not bent?
 
I saw, and see the picture. There's no way to tell from the pic that it's bent, only that there is contact with the dust shield. Did you read the part where my tie rod contacts the dust shield, even though it's not bent?
It’s definitely bent. Didn’t get the best angle to see it. Yeah I read your post.
 
LOL, then we're on the same page. Bottom line, if you're in a pinch you can have it straightened fairly cheap, but there are also cheap options that net you a new rod. Frankly, once it's bent it will bend easier next time (ask me how I know, BTDT). Another thing to think about- bending a rod won't keep you from getting home, but a broken steering arm or TRE might, which is why I haven't beefed up my tie rod or drag link- I'd rather the rod bend than have something more important and less field-fixable break. As someone mentioned, the rods make a good fuse. YMMV
 
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LOL, then we're on the same page. Bottom line, if you're in a pinch you can have it straightened fairly cheap, but there are also cheap options that net you a new rod. Frankly, once it's bent it will bend easier next time (ask me how I know, BTDT). Another thing to think about- bending a rod won't keep you from getting home, but a broken steering arm or TRE might, which is why I haven't beefed up my tie rod or drag link- I'd rather the rod bend than have something more important and less field-fixable break. As someone mentioned, the rods make a good fuse. YMMV
Oh I’ve learned that I can get home for sure. I discovered this just two days ago and I’m prwtty sure it happened several weeks ago when I was down in KY wheeling, some 4 hours away.
 
In the episode Inkpot referred to, my drag link had something near 90 degrees of bend to it. It was up into the lower radiator hose. We straightened it on the truck enough to drive it home. I was able to get it fairly straight in my press, then drove on it for a few more months until I bent it again, eventually replacing it with a used one. I've straightened my tie rod as well, but never replaced it, slight bends like that don't weaken the rod much.
 
So after extensive digging about TR and TRE I went and replaced the original TRE (167K miles) with 555 TRE I got from @cruiseroutfit a few months ago, it was all rusted it took a lot of force and effort to remove the old TRE one of them we need to heat up so we can take it apart.
Two TRE were bad, the new TRE trades were greased to keep them functional for a long time
After that I went to Front adjustment shop

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I’ll sell you mine. Worked perfectly except the ends were kinda worn out. It is an Az truck so no rust. Plenty of anti rusting agent still on it.
 
I’ll sell you mine. Worked perfectly except the ends were kinda worn out. It is an Az truck so no rust. Plenty of anti rusting agent still on it.
I appreciate the offer but I already have replacement stuff ordered.
 
What replacement parts did you end up ordering?
Ended up ordering the TRE’s from cruiser outfitters and the tie rod from bud built. Ended up talking to Bud himself. Both were able to ship out today which was important to me.
 
Ended up ordering the TRE’s from cruiser outfitters and the tie rod from bud built. Ended up talking to Bud himself. Both were able to ship out today which was important to me.
Holy heavy duty! 1.5" x .375 wall?? That's an extra fat tie rod. If your old rod was in close proximity to your radius arms, this one may force you to grind on the arms for tie rod clearance. This assumes that you have installed adequate castor correction for your lift. I had to grind on my arms, no biggie and they are still in one piece.
 

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