My wheel bearing were getting loosened up quite frequently, and I became quite accustomed to reseting the preload regularly. Then I noticed that my tires were cupping. Between the loose wheel bearings, the Firestone alignment guys, and Discount Tire wheel balance/rotation guys, I figured somewhere in there was the reason for the tire cupping.
So just on a hunch, I decided to test my tie rod ends. I did the 12-6 and 3-9 check and both showed play. My wheel bearings were loose once again, and after re-doing the preload, I checked 12-6 and 3-9. 12-6 was good, but I was still getting play at 3-9, but just on the drivers side.
Bad TRE's would explain the cupping pattern. The cupping is occuring on the shoulders while the middle of the tread is unaffected. If the outside shoulder of the tire is cupped, then the inside shoulder is not. Bad TRE"s could also explain why my wheel bearings keep coming loose.
So I ordered new TRE's from Cruiser Outfitters. Today I replaced them and here are some suggestions.
Obtain the OTC 7315a (Pep Boys loans this out)
Obtain the OEM 27170 (Autozone loans this out)
Buy new TRE's
Get some 4" or 5" c-clamps.
Loosen up the castle nuts (reinstall new cotter pins), the damper (reinstall cotter pin) and the clamps. Spray some PB blaster or grease the rods and tie rods and damper. Drive around for a week or so lightly, making sure to hit some speed bumps and flex the suspension some.
Grab a pipe wrench (2') and twist the tie rod and relay rod. You can heat the rods if they still won't move. With the TRE's still seated, this gives you the best leverage.
I'd go straight to the driver's side relay rod off of the pitman arm and stick to using the OEM 27170. You can also use the OTC 7315a, but you need to use a c-clamp to keep it straight. The OTC 7315a tends to wander off. There's a flat ground spot on the steering arm that seems to be there just for this. On the OTC 7315a, there's also a flat section for the other side of the C-clamp.
Between the OTC 7315a (with c-clamp) and OEM 27170, removing the TRE's from the arms should be a breeze. I'm not sure if the OEM 27170 can be used for the damper, instead I used the OTC 7315a and c-clamp. Came off pretty easy.
One other note, I pretty bewildered as to why the Firestone aligment guys did not know that I needed new TRE's. In addition, both castle nuts on the tie rod were loose and sitting on the cotter pin, which I'm pretty sure Firestone guys never tightened up.
So just on a hunch, I decided to test my tie rod ends. I did the 12-6 and 3-9 check and both showed play. My wheel bearings were loose once again, and after re-doing the preload, I checked 12-6 and 3-9. 12-6 was good, but I was still getting play at 3-9, but just on the drivers side.
Bad TRE's would explain the cupping pattern. The cupping is occuring on the shoulders while the middle of the tread is unaffected. If the outside shoulder of the tire is cupped, then the inside shoulder is not. Bad TRE"s could also explain why my wheel bearings keep coming loose.
So I ordered new TRE's from Cruiser Outfitters. Today I replaced them and here are some suggestions.
Obtain the OTC 7315a (Pep Boys loans this out)
Obtain the OEM 27170 (Autozone loans this out)
Buy new TRE's
Get some 4" or 5" c-clamps.
Loosen up the castle nuts (reinstall new cotter pins), the damper (reinstall cotter pin) and the clamps. Spray some PB blaster or grease the rods and tie rods and damper. Drive around for a week or so lightly, making sure to hit some speed bumps and flex the suspension some.
Grab a pipe wrench (2') and twist the tie rod and relay rod. You can heat the rods if they still won't move. With the TRE's still seated, this gives you the best leverage.
I'd go straight to the driver's side relay rod off of the pitman arm and stick to using the OEM 27170. You can also use the OTC 7315a, but you need to use a c-clamp to keep it straight. The OTC 7315a tends to wander off. There's a flat ground spot on the steering arm that seems to be there just for this. On the OTC 7315a, there's also a flat section for the other side of the C-clamp.
Between the OTC 7315a (with c-clamp) and OEM 27170, removing the TRE's from the arms should be a breeze. I'm not sure if the OEM 27170 can be used for the damper, instead I used the OTC 7315a and c-clamp. Came off pretty easy.
One other note, I pretty bewildered as to why the Firestone aligment guys did not know that I needed new TRE's. In addition, both castle nuts on the tie rod were loose and sitting on the cotter pin, which I'm pretty sure Firestone guys never tightened up.
