Ticking/Pulsing sound when turning from stop (1 Viewer)

[dparnas]

Noticed of late that in particular when I am turning, from a complete stop, that I'll hear a ticking/pulsing sound just as the car pulls away on my 97 LC. Seems more on a right turn than left. And goes away as soon as the car is moving, so on turns while at speed, nothing. Wondering if that might be related to the power steering pump, which was replaced last year. Any thoughts? Or is that normal?

 

[Kernal]

The steering knuckles could be low on grease along with the CV joints likely having wear. The noise is from the large balls (ball bearings) inside the CV joint
snapping/clicking against the inner aspect of the (dry) joint.

Have you ever added the correct Moly fortified grease to the steering knuckles?

Many of us on MUD use Valvoline Palladium grease (buy at any NAPA auto parts store) for the knuckles (and the driveshaft slip yolks).

Can you post up a photo of each steering knuckle (swivel ball end of the front axle) as they are now (don't clean before taking the photos).

Palladium Grease - Valvoline™ Global

A grease that provides excellent protection against extreme pressures and shock loads by employing high purity 3% molybdenum disulfide solid lubricant in an alkalinity-balanced thickener system. The lithium complex grease helps minimize wear at applied loads. Formulated to protect against high...

www.valvoline.com

 

[dparnas]

The steering knuckles could be low on grease along with the CV joints likely having wear. The noise is from the large balls (ball bearings) inside the CV joint
snapping/clicking against the inner aspect of the (dry) joint.

Have you ever added the correct Moly fortified grease to the steering knuckles?

Many of us on MUD use Valvoline Palladium grease (buy at any NAPA auto parts store) for the knuckles (and the driveshaft slip yolks).

Can you post up a photo of each steering knuckle (swivel ball end of the front axle) as they are now (don't clean before taking the photos).

Palladium Grease - Valvoline™ Global

A grease that provides excellent protection against extreme pressures and shock loads by employing high purity 3% molybdenum disulfide solid lubricant in an alkalinity-balanced thickener system. The lithium complex grease helps minimize wear at applied loads. Formulated to protect against high...

www.valvoline.com

Thanks. I'll take some pics and post. We bought the car in August of 2021 and had the steering knuckles rebuilt in September, so hopefully they properly lubricated them at the time. But thanks for pointing me in a direction to check out.

 

[mudgudgeon]

and had the steering knuckles rebuilt in September

Was the shop that did the rebuild a shop with a reputation for working on Landcruisers?

I've pulled apart knuckles and found newish, but noisy birfs/ CV joints that were only graesed with the little squeeze pack of grease they are supplied with (maybe two ounces).

Best practice is to 1/2 - 2/3 fill the knuckle with grease which would be more like 10 oz

 

[dparnas]

Was the shop that did the rebuild a shop with a reputation for working on Landcruisers?

I've pulled apart knuckles and found newish, but noisy birfs/ CV joints that were only graesed with the little squeeze pack of grease they are supplied with (maybe two ounces).

Best practice is to 1/2 - 2/3 fill the knuckle with grease which would be more like 10 oz

yes. The Service Outlet in Lafayette, CA. They only work on Toyota and Honda and only use original parts, if available. But I will definitely be checking with them about this. Thanks!

 

[Kernal]

You can take a look into the knuckles via the inspection port; remove the pipe
plug and stick a long thin screwdriver into the hole, pull it back out.

As mentioned above it's not all that incommon to find either the incorrect type of grease (needs to be Moly fortified), or not enough grease, or none at all, or even gear oil instead of grease.

 

[dparnas]

Turns out to be one of the CV Joints unfortunately. The knuckles were properly lubricated. So, getting both of the CV joints replaced. Not a cheap part sadly so...I'll take two.

 

[BILT4ME]

Turns out to be one of the CV Joints unfortunately. The knuckles were properly lubricated. So, getting both of the CV joints replaced. Not a cheap part sadly so...I'll take two.

What did they tell you? Any pics?

They didn't notice this when it was apart previously?

 

[Kernal]

@dparnas: How many miles on your FZJ80??

 

[dparnas]

@dparnas: How many miles on your FZJ80??

About 235k.

 

[dparnas]

What did they tell you? Any pics?

They didn't notice this when it was apart previously?

They said that there was wear in just one of the CV joints, but recommended doing both. No pics. No, they said they didn't inspect the CV joints previously, so they are giving me a discount on the labor as a result.

 

[BILT4ME]

They said that there was wear in just one of the CV joints, but recommended doing both. No pics. No, they said they didn't inspect the CV joints previously, so they are giving me a discount on the labor as a result.

They need to be installing new seals again as well. They should do those at no charge.

 

[Kernal]

The left side always wears faster than the right, hence the reason some of us swap their CV joints side-to-side to even out the wear. I did this 12 years and almost 90,000 miles ago, still no clicking.

IMHO the shop should give you a massive discount; a serviceable CV joint
installed with the correct amount of moly fortified grease shouldn't start clicking after a year or a few thousand miles IME. Likely the shop didn't inspect the CV joint (or didn't pack the joint/knuckle with enough grease).

IMHO I would want to be present when they pulled the front axle down to see if they even put grease into the knuckle last year (or this time around).

There's been more than a few Mud members who found their knuckles (after a shop did the work) to be low on grease, the wrong type of grease, filled with gear oil (wrongly), or even have zero grease packed inside.

If they did forget/neglect to add grease or the proper amount last year that also could have damaged your spindle bushings.

 

[dparnas]

Just picked up the rig. They gave me a decent discount, but not as much as I'd like to have had. I did see the old joints and took them home. One of them was very loose, the right one that was making noise. The left one was nice and tight. Both were packed with grease though. I mentioned to them about swapping from side to side. Of course a shop isn't going to do something like that, but they thought for someone with the time and skill, it's a good idea. And yes, installed new seals and didn't charge me for those. Thanks to everyone for the input. If there is a next time, hopefully not, I'll check with this group first. At a minimum, I could have saved quite a bit just on the parts had I known before I authorized the shop to order the oem parts.

 

[Kernal]

Glad it's back together.

Would you mind posting up the repair receipt (name/address removed) showing the part numbers/descriptions and cost of parts and labor, etc??

Might help some future members.

 

[dparnas]

Glad it's back together.

Would you mind posting up the repair receipt (name/address removed) showing the part numbers/descriptions and cost of parts and labor, etc??

Might help some future members.

Not exactly proud of how much I spent here. Basically it was part 43405-60070 x2. They charged me $1,307 per part, so $2,614 for the 2. Had I done my own search, probably could have gotten oem parts for close to $1,000 less total, but then the shop wouldn't have warrantied them. New seals, snap ring, grease, etc... Labor was $800. With tax was still close to $3,700. Ouch.

 

[Kernal]

Does the receipt state which grease type/brand was used??

Were the trunnion bearings and/or wheel bearings replaced?

Posting up the receipt will help others see what to expect.

 

[dparnas]

Does the receipt state which grease type/brand was used??

Were the trunnion bearings and/or wheel bearings replaced?

Posting up the receipt will help others see what to expect.

No, it doesn't say what kind of grease. I'll find out. Here's exactly what the receipt states:

"Removed all necessary front suspension parts - Removed inner axle seals - Repacked front steering knuckles and front wheel bearings, Installed new special ordered drivers and passenger cv axles and inner axle seals - installed new axle o rings - reinstalled and torque all parts to proper specs."

 

[Kernal]

Ok, so it appears they didn't replace the trunnion bearings or wheel bearings this time around. Did they replace those last year?

Not sure what they mean by "axle O-ring", maybe they were referring to the dust seals/wipers for the swivel balls??

He didn't mentioned packing the new CV joints with grease?? Those come new from Toyota dry and must be packed with Moly fortified grease.

A list of the parts/kits and prices should be written down somewhere as they would need new paper seals unless they reused the old ones (or incorrectly used silicone??) from last year.

 

[dparnas]

Ok, so it appears they didn't replace the trunnion bearings or wheel bearings this time around. Did they replace those last year?

Not sure what they mean by "axle O-ring", maybe they were referring to the dust seals/wipers for the swivel balls??

He didn't mentioned packing the new CV joints with grease?? Those come new from Toyota dry and must be packed with Moly fortified grease.

A list of the parts/kits and prices should be written down somewhere as they would need new paper seals unless they reused the old ones (or incorrectly used silicone??) from last year.

Just dropped by the shop. They used redline cv-2 grease with moly to pack the new cv joints. As far as I can tell, no, they didn't replace the trunnion or wheel bearings since we bought the car last August.