Thunking/knocking after diff drop and OME kit

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The diff suppprt arm in the front (mounts to the axle extension tube) that you had to remove to set in the DD- is that new?

Dbl check the frame mounting foot on your slider - that the top of it is not in contact or close contact with the floorboard.
 
Once you said slider I checked and sure enough the middle support was touching the body slightly on the driver side. I moved the slider back slightly so nothing was touching and went for a test drive...unfortunately it's still making the clunk.

The arm that faces the rear that connects directly to the DD? Part # 5238060040? It's not new but the bushing is. A Febest bushing was used since you can't get an oem bushing for that location. I'm going to try and rig up a gopro or something to see if i can pin point it.
 
Here is a video of the clunk from 3 different angles. Note: the creaking sound is more from the GoPro Zipty mount.

 
I believe I hear the noise at 21 seconds into the video. But I'm not noticing any movement at the diff, diff bushing, or support arm.

Maybe triple check everything Diff, LCA UCA, shocks, TB mounts, CVs (ball joints, bushes, knuckle etc) for flex or looseness with a pry bar? Can you replicate the noise with a floor jack lifting under each LCA?

Unrelated to your DD but the sound resembles a CV with out grease but you've mentioned recently re greasing. Any looseness in the CV in/out, up down.

Did Slee ever get back and give any insight? Hope you get the answer figured out.
 
So the CV-ish sound is the zipty I used to secure the GoPro. Cv's are tight.

So I'd say 70% of the sound is solved. I had used my floor jack on my sliders and it shifted them up slightly when I was doing the diff work. Last night I loosened, moved them down, then retightened them.

We're leaving for telluride today but when I get back I'm going to be replacing all ball joints and control arm bushings. Steering is super tight so doubt any steering related items are causing this issue. And no, nothing from slee yet.
 
Captramrod01 said:
So the CV-ish sound is the zipty I used to secure the GoPro. Cv's are tight.

So I'd say 70% of the sound is solved. I had used my floor jack on my sliders and it shifted them up slightly when I was doing the diff work. Last night I loosened, moved them down, then retightened them.

We're leaving for telluride today but when I get back I'm going to be replacing all ball joints and control arm bushings. Steering is super tight so doubt any steering related items are causing this issue. And no, nothing from slee yet.
Click to expand...

ever get this issue solved?
 
Captramrod01 said:
Yes, it was my sliders hitting the body.
Click to expand...

So, my sliders were hitting the body and transferring the clunk to my feet... I don't feel the clunk anymore but I can still hear it. I am going to try tightening my shocks, maybe that is the culprit
 
Last edited:
Both times I've had mystery clunks show up again was either when I lost a lower shock bolt or the lower sway bar bolt. Both were torqued to spec but worked loose. Just something to check.
 
Captramrod01 said:
Both times I've had mystery clunks show up again was either when I lost a lower shock bolt or the lower sway bar bolt. Both were torqued to spec but worked loose. Just something to check.
Click to expand...

I think I'm going to get a wrench on everything I can touch this weekend. This morning I found that my sway bar cushion bracket bolt (the one right above the Tbar worked it's way lose, got that tightened up but still could hear the noise.
 
If anyone here still is having issues with the knocking sounds. Had the same issue after installing an IRONMAN 2inch lift w/Diff drop. Front shocks weren't torqued. Top mount screws weren't down enough. After getting the torque right, no more knocking sounds.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom