Thoughts on importing a HZJ75? (1 Viewer)

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My advice if you want to turbo it regardless, is rebuild it... get one without rust as your main priority, plan/budget to rebuild it with 1HZ-T pistons, put on all the 1HD-T gear on it and you should have a reliable engine that won't overheat.
 
@damienperu good catch on the 11/1992, don't want to wait another year. My focus is finding a 1HZ, dual factory tanks, factory a/c, rust free (as possible), and low miles. Anything beyond that is a bonus but those are the "musts". Out of curiosity what would you anticipate to spend on a rebuild like you are talking about? If I understand the 1HZ is the same block as the 1HD-T? So doing what you are suggesting would produce a 1HD-T? or would it be different in some ways? Thanks.
 
On a separate note to everyone, I live at 8,909ft in Colorado. So we have some long, cold, snowy winters. I unfortunately do not have a garage space to keep a vehicle. What would you recommend for a 1HZ Troopy living outside in the winter that will be started early on cold mornings? Im thinking plug in block heater and eventually a webasto. The truck will see -40f on the coldest of mornings. Thanks again.
 
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@damienperu good catch on the 11/1992, don't want to wait another year. My focus is finding a 1HZ, dual factory tanks, factory a/c, rust free (as possible), and low miles. Anything beyond that is a bonus but those are the "musts". Out of curiosity what would you anticipate to spend on a rebuild like you are talking about? If I understand the 1HZ is the same block as the 1HD-T? So doing what you are suggesting would produce a 1HD-T? or would it be different in some ways? Thanks.
Firstly, 1HZ-T and 1HD-T are IDI and DI respectively, so will never be the same. Can't remember prices, and you'll have to do your homework locally to get labor costs, but new 1HZ-T pistons and conrods (same part as 1HD-T) rebuilt gasket kit and sleeves are not that expensive (order from Engines Australia, they ship worldwide, if you give me a few days I can find my invoices), and the labor itself you could get quoted where you are, if it's not turboed already get a 1HD-T turbo and exhaust manifold, they go cheap these days if you're on a budget... budget a SS 3" exhaust system (another local exhaust shop quote) and 3" dump pipe ($60 on ebay) as you really would be nuts to go to all the trouble and not let it breath better... in terms of air/oil/coolant hoses you can go cheap and make them up yourself or buy all the 1HD-T parts for a factory finish. Mine's apart tonight so here's a pic of my 1HZ converted to factory spec 1HZ-T. Goes awesome, and still pretty good at 16,700' which is the highest I've driven it
1481422565208-1468417887.jpg
 
@damienperu, I knew the 1HZ is idi and the 1HD-T is di. I didn't know if you were saying you could take a 1HZ block and turn it into a 1HD-T di engine. That is one nice looking 1HZ-T, I would be interested in your invoices at your convince. Really no rush here at all, I don't even have a Troopy yet...
Thanks
 
@damienperu, I knew the 1HZ is idi and the 1HD-T is di. I didn't know if you were saying you could take a 1HZ block and turn it into a 1HD-T di engine. That is one nice looking 1HZ-T, I would be interested in your invoices at your convince. Really no rush here at all, I don't even have a Troopy yet...
Thanks
Yeah a few in OZ have done the change from 1HZ to 1HD-T, same block. A lot of F'ing around though and more cost for new head, pump, injectors etc, then there's electrical wiring issues, would be easier transplanting a 1HD-T... converting to 1HZ-T is much easier. There's a thread in the diesel section where many others and I have posted info on the elusive factory 1HZ-T parts and configuration. With that info and a medium budget it's the best option I think for NA 1HZ owners if you're not looking to use it on a dragstrip, both extra power and Toyota reliability, although the latter is still just in theory as I really need to do 300K in mine before I can say that! Although my research found dozens of 93-94 factory 1HZ-Ts still getting around.
 
Thanks for clarifying that, I will read some more (I don't see this "self-education" ever ending). On the cold climate frontier, It seems a hose heater is the way to go. That said a block heater, battery blanket, and oil pan heater all seem to have merit as well. So not sure what would be the best route to be nice to a 1HZ on cold start mornings.
 
Thanks for clarifying that, I will read some more (I don't see this "self-education" ever ending). On the cold climate frontier, It seems a hose heater is the way to go. That said a block heater, battery blanket, and oil pan heater all seem to have merit as well. So not sure what would be the best route to be nice to a 1HZ on cold start mornings.
im no expert nor have much experience on northern winter survival but I would initially go a cheap external plugin heater until you figure out a heap of other stuff, the webasto type solutions take a lot of space and are fairly definitive, so I wouldn't put one on until I had most other things worked out
 
Webasto is definitely my end game plan. Im trying to figure out a good up front solution without overkill. Im thinking a hose heater with another heat component running in conjunction will be the way to go. Not sure if hose/oil pan, hose/block heater, hose/battery blanket, or if something else entirely is the way to go. Calling all cold weather diesel owners, Thanks.
 
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I was told that hose heaters don't work the best and burn themselves out on a 1HZ due to the thermostat. Block heaters can work and has been offered from factory. Napa sells one that fits and is on the shelf. I'll try to get part numbers when I'm in the shop again
 
You will want:

*Block heater or lower hose heater
*Dual Battery setup
*Fuel additive
* Oil pan heater

Bonus items:
*Heated fuel filter
*battery blanket
*webasto
*heated fuel line
 
nobody seems to do a installed trickle charger for battery. This is what I would use instead of a battery blanket. A trickle charger excites the molecules in the acid therefore preventing the acid/water from freezing, and a side benefit is that the battery voltage/charge is maintained:) A battery blanket heat has to transfer up or across a cold acid/water, therefore you may or may not get full warming of the fluid in a timely manner. Don't get me wrong, battery blanket's I guess work since everyone does them. A pad has to heat up, a wrap/blanket would be attacking from all 4 sides. Just my take:)
 
nobody seems to do a installed trickle charger for battery. This is what I would use instead of a battery blanket. A trickle charger excites the molecules in the acid therefore preventing the acid/water from freezing, and a side benefit is that the battery voltage/charge is maintained:) A battery blanket heat has to transfer up or across a cold acid/water, therefore you may or may not get full warming of the fluid in a timely manner. Don't get me wrong, battery blanket's I guess work since everyone does them. A pad has to heat up, a wrap/blanket would be attacking from all 4 sides. Just my take:)
On that note... how about a little solar panel dedicated to trickle charging? dumb idea or no? I am preparing for these same issues with mine and am trying to come up with a solution other than webasto that is good for when plug ins are not around ( on the mountain / in the woods )
 
I installed a solar powered trickle charger on my BJ74 (now owned by @elkaholic) and am considering adding one to my current Cruiser.
 
On that note... how about a little solar panel dedicated to trickle charging? dumb idea or no? I am preparing for these same issues with mine and am trying to come up with a solution other than webasto that is good for when plug ins are not around ( on the mountain / in the woods )
Well, when you are away from electric power, you won't have anything available to heat up your engine when it is -20F and you leave it alone for 8 hrs to go skiing? Unless you pack a generator. Solar charger probably will not do any good with what short light you have during the winter, when it is overcast/snowing?
You could get one of those airplane engine heaters that you start when you get back to your rig, let it cook for an hr or two? while you sit around waiting in the cold? Or get a warm chocolate drink? I guess if your glow plugs are in top shape, compression is good, starter good, battery good, then you can successfully cold start it, just will probably not be happy :)
Do you have access to a electrical outlet at work? If not, then you have the same problems as being out in the woods, unless where you work/live is a lot warmer than where you go to in the woods and it is not an issue 90% of the time.
From everything I know, which is not much, the only way to warm up/keep happy your engine when you leave it out in the cold for more than a couple of hours, in the woods or at work or movies, is a Webasto/Espar. If you are at work and you get off at 5pm, you set the timer to come on at 4:15pm and when you leave work the engine is ready. If it's like -30F you probably will want to let it run for a longer time.
Some cold climate places require that businesses have outside electric outlets, but I don't know how many places require this, I know Fairbanks/North Pole does but in the Anchorage they do not, even though the place I work at now does have outdoor plugs.
Just my humble opinion.
 
I honestly would park it during winter months. I thought I wanted to drive my HZJ77 all year too but I just bought myself a cheap Subaru instead. Way less hassle, a lot cheaper, and my Subaru is much safer on the highway with AWD as well. All the roads around here if not plowed will be way too deep to drive anyways. Special outings I can insure the Cruiser for the occasion but otherwise it sits parked. Winter is hard on these things and they very difficult and extremely expensive to replace
 
Well, after all I said above, let me just tell of my experience with my BJ-70/71. I drove it year round in Fairbanks, AK. At home it was parked inside, at work it got plugged in, visit friends and parked for any time past a couple of hrs it got plugged in. I had a oil pan heater, block heater, and a electric heater in the cab. No Webasto/Espar. I didn't use a plug in trickle charger since i didn't know how to hook one up on a 24V two battery set up, I guess I could have swapped the two 12V for one 24V and then maybe found a 24V trickle charger. It did great even in -30/-40F. Drove it long distances in the middle of winter. Not afraid to daily drive it year round.
Now with my HJ-75 I am daily driving it. When I am on duty for work it is in the garage, when off work most of the time it sits outside overnight. I have a teeny oil pan heater, which I don't think does much, and a lower Rad hose insert heater, which is better than nothing wish I had a block heater. I have espar installed in this and use this to pre-warm the engine when it sits outside any length of time. Maybe some day down the road I will get brave and buy the proper side piece for the engine that is designed to put in a block heater, since I think I have to remove the fuel pump to gain access to this cover :-(
 
I honestly would park it during winter months. I thought I wanted to drive my HZJ77 all year too but I just bought myself a cheap Subaru instead. Way less hassle, a lot cheaper, and my Subaru is much safer on the highway with AWD as well. All the roads around here if not plowed will be way too deep to drive anyways. Special outings I can insure the Cruiser for the occasion but otherwise it sits parked. Winter is hard on these things and they very difficult and extremely expensive to replace

I have a car I am driving now and plan on keeping that when I get the Troopy. I won't be abusing her and fine to drive the car on the really cold days. That said, I hope to have a setup that allows me to have a nice start in cold conditions.
 

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