Thoughts on cylinder wall streak? (1 Viewer)

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Risk/reward. This is MUD so you will get many opinions. Personally, if I see an issue when I am working on something, I want to address it then. Why go through all of this work, again? Do it now and be done with it. It is an opportunity. Besides, now you can build it and get it ready for a new Wits End turbo kit! If nothing else, rebuild and you really have baselined it!

Also, bad karma to sell if not repaired and not disclosed.
 
I've been thinking more and more about this - I had originally thought about putting a V8 in this rig when I first bought it, but honestly, I don't mind the power output of the 1FZ. Sure, not going to win a drag race - but that isn't what I bought it for. The more I think about it, the more I just want this thing to be reliable. So, I am going to give the machine shop a call on Monday and let them know I will be bringing them a block and crank shortly for cleaning, inspection, and re-work. Do it right and hopefully not have to think about it again for a long time.

Thanks for all the discussion.

This sounds familiar, and close to home right now. If you can't feel it with a nail, very unlikely you need to bore, just hone it. I had rust in the cylinders that I could just feel, it almost honed out. If you don't need to bore / replace pistons, the rebuild isn't THAT horrible. Fair warning though, Toyota rings are $320 a set. About the only part that gave me some sticker shock.

Good luck !

Jason
 
If you hone, replace rings. But then you’re tearing the block down completely...

Id run it. At worst pop the piston out and inspect rings. But id run it.
 
I've been thinking more and more about this - I had originally thought about putting a V8 in this rig when I first bought it, but honestly, I don't mind the power output of the 1FZ. Sure, not going to win a drag race - but that isn't what I bought it for. The more I think about it, the more I just want this thing to be reliable. So, I am going to give the machine shop a call on Monday and let them know I will be bringing them a block and crank shortly for cleaning, inspection, and re-work. Do it right and hopefully not have to think about it again for a long time.

Thanks for all the discussion.
That's the correct choice. You have already sunk the labor into pulling the engine and you are getting the top end done. Hopefully the machine shop can hone the cylinders and put in a new set of rings. Change your rod and main bearings, replace the freeze plugs, check the timing change, etc. Then you will be done for a good long time.
 
first thing I'd do is inspect the piston and it's rings. If that doesn't look bad I'd just hone the bores and replace all the rings along and all the bearings..

In my experience a good running 1FZ with no leaks will burn right around 1/2 quart per 5000 miles running synthetic. Do you know what that engine's oil consumption was?
 
first thing I'd do is inspect the piston and it's rings. If that doesn't look bad I'd just hone the bores and replace all the rings along and all the bearings..

In my experience a good running 1FZ with no leaks will burn right around 1/2 quart per 5000 miles running synthetic. Do you know what that engine's oil consumption was?

It was about a quart per 5000 according to the PO. In the short time I was driving it, I had to add 1/2 quart - so I think it was higher than what he thought. But, the valve seals were leaking, PCV hose was cracked and leaking, dizzy o-ring was leaking, rear arch seal was leaking, valve cover.......
 
if you have the engine out it just makes sense to fix it properly now......

Lots of people saying "Fix it properly".. define "Properly". why start cutting and introducing new tolerances and unknown parts into a a motor that doesn't need it? I guess it's must just be really easy to spend other people's money
 
Fix it “properly” means finding out why that particular cylinder has low compression and then correcting the problem. My opinion is that you are wasting your time and money if you don’t correct the low compression problem. It is probably not a coincidence that the cylinder has low compression and the wall streak.
 
Lots of people saying "Fix it properly".. define "Properly". why start cutting and introducing new tolerances and unknown parts into a a motor that doesn't need it? I guess it's must just be really easy to spend other people's money

Because you have a visible damage and low compression on a cylinder, that's why. I take my customers money very seriously and if I had a customer that was paying me to rebuild and inspect an engine I would want to make damn sure he would not have to pay someone to redo all that work again.
 
if I had a customer that was paying me to rebuild and inspect an engine I would want to make damn sure he would not have to pay someone to redo all that work again
If your running your own shop, and have paying customers your reputation is EVERYTHING!

That's why i agree with you, you do the job right the first time for two reasons.

First, come backs don't make you any money, they COST you money in lost labor hours and replacement part costs.

And second, and even more important, bad customer service by not doing the job correctly the first time CAN, and WILL hurt your chances of having any future business with that paying customer, or his friends and family.
 
Visible damage
Paying customer
... lol okay

Getting a little carried away with these hypotheticals and imagined damage me thinks but you do you

The difference between a full tear down vs a head is pretty significant. Sure if it was a shop doing this but it’s not... Tougher call as an individual IMO. Id want to see what machine shop said about valves on that cyl before doing anything but if it cant be felt with fingernail I probably would just pull piston and inspect rings.
 
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I got sick as hell this week, so I haven't worked on the rig at all, but I finally went over and did a little more today. I pulled piston #3. The upper ring was a little sticky, but I could move it with some resistance. The lower ring moved freely. The oil ring also moved fairly freely, although it was full of crud (some of which was from the fallout of the ridge removal, I am guessing. The ring gaps were not aligned when the piston came out - but that isn't to say that they could have been previously at some time.

I took some photos. The crankpin journal looked really good, as did the inner surface of the connecting rod bearing. The outer surface of the upper connecting rod bearing and the connecting rod bearing surface have some strange marks.

I still haven't heard back from the machine shop on the head - he was backlogged a couple of weeks, so it will be a bit.

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the rings spin around on the piston while the motor runs, pay no mind to whether the gaps were aligned or not, doesn't matter. You could put them in all lined up exactly with each other and it would run fine.

Take a pic of the actual rod bearing wear surface that is the real teller.
 
the rings spin around on the piston while the motor runs, pay no mind to whether the gaps were aligned or not, doesn't matter. You could put them in all lined up exactly with each other and it would run fine.

Take a pic of the actual rod bearing wear surface that is the real teller.

Yeah, I know that they are supposed to spin. But they can get stuck.

The rod bearing wear surfaces looked fine.
 
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It isn’t obvious why the compression was low on that cylinder, but if the bores and pistons are within spec, I would just hone the cylinders and install new rings and crank bearings and hope for the best
 
At a minimum since you have the engine out , hone rings and bearings. And an oil pump. If you decide to do a bore and pistons do just enough bore to clean up everything. A lot of places will automatically go .030 when .010 would make things great again.
 
Pretty typical looking imo. How much time and money you want to get into it...? See what machine shop says.

If you were to tear into it—

A set of NPR rings will cost you 80$ on ebay
Bearings youd have to price out idk
A ball hone - 50$ on amazon
Plus gasket set

But theres a lot of well I’m this far in, should I replace this and this and this? If you listen to some on mud you’ll be into this 8000$ - since you have the engine out.

Amazon product ASIN B002XUL1M6
 

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