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Oh man I need that winch line and that Factory 55 Prolink. I wish I would have had more time this past Saturday for you to help me with the dash wiring.
 
Fire away with either call, text or post. I'll help as much as I can.
 
Well I got the dual battery set up for the winch and accessories. Blue sea systems switch and isolator are being used.

Just a couple finishing touches to secure the wires to prevent any rubbing on the chassis and reconfigure the starting battery terminals due to the fact I forgot to buy four terminals instead of two. Whoops!!

Possible upgrade to the alternator would be bringing it into a shop and have them increase the amperage from 55 A to 200. It depends on how much the case can hold in terms of more copper.
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So I did one modification today which included 5 1/2 – front shackles. This levels of vehicle out and makes it to the stance I wanted. I've had a significant amount of weight in the back and so far the springs have not dropped any more than they are.
Took it for test drive and castor checked out, no death wobble. I wasn't anticipating it anyway.
Added the Thule Sonic alpine 633 in black for camping gear and skis when the season is in.

I'm heading out to Cruise Moab either tonight or in the morning. Hope to see some fellow mudders.
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I'm heading out to Cruise Moab either tonight or in the morning. Hope to see some fellow mudders.

I wish we would have had more time (like: much of any!) at CM. The pics in the thread don't do your truck justice.

The rear bumper and the shade of "cream" paint are absolutely stellar.

Dan
 
Sir it was a pleasure to meet you and thank you for the compliments. Your 40 is in the category of uber professionalism. Last minute decision to go to CM and it was worth it. It's a must do for next year. I know know we'll chat, ride and have a great time next year.

Jim
 
So I had a little problem at cruise Moab. My tcase was jumping out of low and high gear and into neutral and then back into gear. This was not good as this was the first obstacle on the trail. Quickfix, took off the rear driveshaft after the trail run put it in four high and used front wheel drive to get to my buddy's in Grand Junction.

Come to find out my rear output shaft bearing was toast which caused the Tcase to jump out of gear.

So I called up Georg Esther in California because I think he would be the quickest person to get me a terrain tamer kit and all the parts that I needed.
After I tore the tcase apart I discovered I was missing one washer for the speedo gear and the oil slinger for the front output shaft.

Not too happy about the whole situation however it's better than a broken tcase.
And during my restoration time I seriously thought my tcase was OK, no need to rebuild it.

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Since I have a tcase apart I decided to tap the breather hole with a 3/8 inch ID quarter inch NPT fitting. This will allow ample breathing to the tcase for years to come and I won't have to worry about oil pushing into the transmission.
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Jason, Well it's complicated!

T-case is back together but that was not the problem. My rear end is gone. Just ordered the rear ARB locker and 4.88 gears. That will get me back to driving and then I'll do the front.

Also working on the Saganaw PS pump conversion from @orangefj45. Stock pump although rebuilt didn't last. Fluid is coming out of the front shaft and leaking all over the place.
 
Nice work Jim!!!!!!!

Good talking to you as always.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 
Wow! Impressive build. Sweet landcruiser and a beauty of a shop. Those TLC Power steering pumps are crap. Saginaw is the way.
 
Made a quick call to cruiser outfitters and ordered an ARB locker and 4.88 gears for the rear end.
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U-bolts cut Check.

Alternator - Before I left Indy no I did not. Short on time. I'll look for a place in GJ that can do it.
 
Need some help with motor mounts.

When I restored the 60 I bought some mounts from eBay with a vendor from Australia, either 4x4world or onlineautoparts can’t remember.

The mount failed and the rubber separated from itself, wasn’t happy about. So I put the oem mount back in and that one fail.

Was anyone used an aftermarket mount with good success like energy suspension, etc.
 
I separated 2 different mounts in a short period of time. Here's what I did with my 3rd mount, don't yet know if it's a smart idea or not, time will tell.

1) get a new mount
2) cut off both studs
3) drill completely thur the new mount where the studs use to be
4) put a bolt thru the hole and lock it down

I used a 1/2" grade 8 bolt, 2 grade 8 flat washers, one grade 8 lock washer and a grade 8 nylock nut and topped it off with blue lock tite.

So far this has resulted in a small bit of a rougher ride, but not really noticeable after a while. I don't think this motor mount is going to break tho. Time will tell.
 
Need some help with motor mounts.

When I restored the 60 I bought some mounts from eBay with a vendor from Australia, either 4x4world or onlineautoparts can’t remember.

The mount failed and the rubber separated from itself, wasn’t happy about. So I put the oem mount back in and that one fail.

Was anyone used an aftermarket mount with good success like energy suspension, etc.

With lower gearing you'll always have issues with the driver's side mount. The only sure fix is to drill straight through the mount and use a through bolt with a locking nut. You'll still get compression in the rubber but it can't separate without breaking the bolt. I use a 7/16 grade 8.
With a 3:1 transfer and 4:88s with a non 5:1 USA 4 speed I broke a driver's side on nearly every difficult trail. I carried two spares.
For three years after the "fix" I never broke another
 
Thanks for the suggestion guys. That’s what I was thinking about drilling a hole and bolting it. Just wanted to see if there was another solution out there.
Working on it right now.
 
Love this build. I was off Mud for a while and just saw this.

So awesome that you committed to a rough rig, way more inspiring than taking a cream puff and dressing her up.
 

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