This is how to remove the oil pump cover screws (1 Viewer)

[chesshircat]

I watched a bunch of videos and read a couple threads but they all seemed risky to me. This is what I used. 3/8” battery impact and a P-3 bit. It took longer to clean the head of the screws than to remove them and no damage to the screws. They should go back the same way. Clean the heads real well, hold the impact straight and just barely pull the trigger, they will break loose on about the 3rd ratchet. You’ll need to remove the radiator but that is less work than monkeying around with buggered up screws. If you don’t have an impact go to China Freight and spend the $60. I’ve had this one for two years and haven’t had to return it yet. Hope this helps

 

[ERG80]

I also tapped the bit into the screw head with a small hammer before putting the impact on it. Very easy job without the rad in the way.
I hope you did the crank seal while you were in there.

 

[alia176]

It's always a good idea to replace these screws and some have gone to an allen head style. Cheap insurance.

 

[flintknapper]

I also tapped the bit into the screw head with a small hammer before putting the impact on it. Very easy job without the rad in the way.

^^^^^

Yep, this is the way to do it. NO problems at all for me.

 

[Feistl]

If you have the money spare, the actual tool you want to buy is an impact socket breaker bar....

Impact Hammer 1/2 Drive Breaker

the tool works by hitting with a hammer/sledge hammer... some of the impact force is converted into rotational force at the same instance that the force pushes the bit into the screw. I use this tool for any stuck screws/hex/torx bits and it works significantly better than my 1300nm impact driver. (As you can’t put as much inwards pressure with an impact driver).

(edit - you’ll also need the appropriate socket reducers and a 3/8 drive philips bit or 1/4inch socket with impact driver. They’ll need to be quality bits as cheap stuff is likely to shear... that said, good quality screw driver bits in 3/8 driver aren’t that expensive)

 

[flintknapper]

If you have the money spare, the actual tool you want to buy is an impact socket breaker bar....

Impact Hammer 1/2 Drive Breaker

the tool works by hitting with a hammer/sledge hammer... some of the impact force is converted into rotational force at the same instance that the force pushes the bit into the screw. I use this tool for any stuck screws/hex/torx bits and it works significantly better than my 1300nm impact driver. (As you can’t put as much inwards pressure with an impact driver).

(edit - you’ll also need the appropriate socket reducers and a 3/8 drive philips bit or 1/4inch socket with impact driver. They’ll need to be quality bits as cheap stuff is likely to shear... that said, good quality screw driver bits in 3/8 driver aren’t that expensive)

Good luck swinging a hammer in that small space. Impact tools (Air, Corded, Battery) work just fine.

 

[chesshircat]

I also tapped the bit into the screw head with a small hammer before putting the impact on it. Very easy job without the rad in the way.
I hope you did the crank seal while you were in there.

I'm replacing every gasket, seal, grommet, coolant line I can get to and the water pump & thermostat

 

[REKCUT]

As long as you hammer in a good fitting bit, I like using a ratchet as I can fell it starting to move or deform. I have done multiple and never had an Issue. Look up the thread by Zane and it explains the best bit to use.