This 3B-T Hauls! (1 Viewer)

[fjbj40]

Those #'s sound about right. My Bj62 , 4:11 and 31x10.5's, use to run 8-900 post turbo @ 2400-2500 rpm on flat ground. That was with 9 PSI and fuel turned up 1-11/2 turns. She would peak out at 1250 with my foot into it up Kelly's Mountain in Cape Breton (biggest hill in this part of the country), only did that once though!

Max temp with foot into it on flat ground was 1100, she was then going way to fast and it was scary.

I ran 1987 Volvo 740 t3 turbo on it with homemade manifold.

Sounds like you have a nice set-up there, I miss my BJ62 but she ended up in really good hands.

Daryl

 

[Dougal]

I think his pyro is broken, it takes temperatures hotter than that to reach 110km/h. Pull the probe, stick a cigarett lighter under it and see what it reads. It could be as simple as the wrong connectors used throwing up a cold-junction or two.

Having a pyro that always reads cold is like having a fuel gauge stuck on full. Might make you feel good, but you could end up walking.

Those #'s sound about right. My Bj62 , 4:11 and 31x10.5's, use to run 8-900 post turbo @ 2400-2500 rpm on flat ground.

Post turbo always reads a lot colder than pre-turbo. 800-900F post turbo on the flat pushing a 40 at 110km/h is normal range, 800-900F preturbo isn't.

 

[mainlander]

I think his pyro is broken, it takes temperatures hotter than that to reach 110km/h. Pull the probe, stick a cigarett lighter under it and see what it reads.

Can't say that I agree with Dougal. If one's fuel isn't turned up why wouldn't the EGT range be lower....? I run on the flat between 800-900*F pre-turbo at 110km/hr all day long. So based on this, my prob must be broken too?
If I adjust my fuel higher, my EGT's will rise but why do that when the hills I push raise my EGT's to 1050-1150*F and longer, steeper grades only push my EFT's higher if I keep my foot in it.

 

[fjbj40]

It was in a 60 series, not a 40 series. Yes post turbo is usually cooler, not alot colder. My testing showed only a decrease of 150 degree between pre and post readings. Post probe is safe, a failed probe can take out the turbine.

Maybe a calibrated heat source to test the probe, a cigarett lighter will tell him it only works, not how accurate it is.

Daryl

I think his pyro is broken, it takes temperatures hotter than that to reach 110km/h. Pull the probe, stick a cigarett lighter under it and see what it reads. It could be as simple as the wrong connectors used throwing up a cold-junction or two.

Having a pyro that always reads cold is like having a fuel gauge stuck on full. Might make you feel good, but you could end up walking.



Post turbo always reads a lot colder than pre-turbo. 800-900F post turbo on the flat pushing a 40 at 110km/h is normal range, 800-900F preturbo isn't.

 

[Dougal]

Can't say that I agree with Dougal. If one's fuel isn't turned up why wouldn't the EGT range be lower....?

Turning your fuel up or down only affects the maximum temperatures, it has no effect on cruising temps.

Cruising temps reflect the load the engine is under. Bigger tyres, worse aerodynamics, less boost and higher gearing all push your cruising EGT's higher.

 

[Dougal]

It was in a 60 series, not a 40 series. Yes post turbo is usually cooler, not alot colder. My testing showed only a decrese of 150 degree between pre and post readings. Post probe is safe a failed probe can take out the turbine.

Maybe a calibrated heat source to test the probe, a cigarett lighter will tell him it only works, not how accurate it is.

Daryl

There can be 300C between pre and post temps. It is not a fixed difference, it depends on the incoming temperature, the pressure ratio across the turbine and the turbines efficienct at that operating point.

My probe has been sitting pre-turbo for about 6 years now. No failure and even if it did come apart the parts would go straight through the turbine.
Post-turbo is only a load indicator, it cannot tell you what the critical temps are.

A cigarette lighter flame will show if the probe can actually read above it's current levels. If it does, then the location is the next thing to check.

 

[mainlander]

Turning your fuel up or down only affects the maximum temperatures, it has no effect on cruising temps.

Cruising temps reflect the load the engine is under. Bigger tyres, worse aerodynamics, less boost and higher gearing all push your cruising EGT's higher.

Help me out if you don't mind. Why would changing the fuel setting only affect the maximum temperatures? So I turn my fuel down say 3 full turns, almost to the point of starving my engine. Less fuel in the mix wouldn't affect the overall EGT? Or the opposite situation, I turn my fuel up so much that I'm blowing black smoke at idle. More fuel in the mix wouldn't affect the overall EGT?
All under load (cruising speed is still under load right?) of course.

So why is my EGT lower when I'm cruising at say 80km/hr in 4th gear. Probably the same load on the engine, but different amont of fuel being input yes? My foot is the controller of the fuel input yes...?

I might just have to go out and try it. Crank my fuel all the way up, drive on the highway at 110km/hr and see if there's any difference in my EGT's, shouldn't be according to Dougal (who I respect, but have no problem asking questions of).

 

[amaurer]

Help me out if you don't mind. Why would changing the fuel setting only affect the maximum temperatures?

Because when you're cruising your foot automatically compensates for the increased power by not pressing the pedal as far. At cruise, by definition, the driver calls for only as much power as required to keep the speed constant.

Whether or not the engine can make more power (due to increased fuel) is irrelevant at cruise.

 

[Dougal]

As Drew said, the load on your engine (hence the power it produces) at cruise is not related to the maximum power.
Your fuel screw only changes the maximum power. Everything below that is done by your right foot and the rpm governor.

The load on your engine at 80km/h is around 40% of the load at 110km/h.

 

[BC40]

...I run on the flat between 800-900*F pre-turbo at 110km/hr all day long. So based on this, my prob must be broken too?
If I adjust my fuel higher, my EGT's will rise but why do that when the hills I push raise my EGT's to 1050-1150*F and longer, steeper grades only push my EFT's higher if I keep my foot in it.

Me too. BJ60 with 5spd, 4.11, 33's. I run the same VDO gauge as I believe mainlander has in his truck. In this cold weather I see about 650-700*F at ~100kph on flat ground no wind, it was maybe slightly higher in the summer. Probe placed centered in the manifold 1" before turbo inlet. Fuel set to give a max of ~1200*F on long hills full load. On my truck I did see a difference in temperatures once reaching hwy speed with max fuel screw turned out more, maybe heat soak after accelerating?

 

[crushers]

that is what i found as well, between 150 and 200 between post and pre.

it wouldn't hurt to test the pyro, although i have yet to see one read wrong if it came from a complete new kit. it either worked or it didn't.
but
i don't see an issue with the readings you are getting.

It was in a 60 series, not a 40 series. Yes post turbo is usually cooler, not alot colder. My testing showed only a decrease of 150 degree between pre and post readings. Post probe is safe, a failed probe can take out the turbine.

Maybe a calibrated heat source to test the probe, a cigarett lighter will tell him it only works, not how accurate it is.

Daryl

 

[baxter650]

Went for a short scoot with John on Sat and was impressed, truck moves out pretty well with max just around 10psi.
Listened to it as he left and it doesn't sound like your average 3B either, pretty healthy.
Needs some rubber though, tires look like they are off a Chevy Sprint.
Would be nice to see the specs of that cam.

 

[jzilla]

Yes tires will be removed sooner than I had planned, kind of looks like an elephant on a skateboard...

 

[yotahed]

is this thread dead yet

sorry to chime in late,
My turbo 3b reflects very close EGT's to what Jzilla and mainlander are stating. Also driven many of the same roads and hwy's as them(coastal BC).
I can do the snowshed hill on the coquihalla at around 950-1000F preturbo, my probe is a autometer matched kit, and probe is right in the middle of the stream 1" from the turbo.
Im not sure what my fuel settings are from stock as somebody played with that before i aquired the engine, but the screw on the back of the HAC is backed out all the way, and 2-3 threads stick out past the retainer nut.
Under initial accel from dead stop revving to 2900 through gear changes, EGTs can climb fairly fast, but drop off quite fast as well and "level out" when a certain rpm/load/boost is held constant. I find it very easy to "set" rpm with my foot on long hills and egts stay constant if the incline/speed/rpm/boost stays constant more or less.

And i dont think my pyro is broken
No offense to anyone

 

[yotahed]

by the way Jzilla did i meet you at EBI that one day yakkin with Steve?

 

[jzilla]

That is a possibility, I am not sure though...
Now that I have the 4.11's and 33's back on, performance has decreased a bit and the temps are higher. I guess The stock tires and and 3.7's made a big difference after all, I just did not think the difference would be that noticeable.
J

 

[84bj60]

I'm running 35's and stock 3.70's and I LOVE how the truck drives. It was on 31's before with the turbo and everything felt too short. I'm running 15-17 psi and 2 turns of fuel. Will give it another half turn once I throw the intercooler on