Thinking of swapping to a 1HD-FTE

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Jan 17, 2011
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Location
Poulsbo, WA
I have a '95 FZJ80 that I am pretty sure has a rod bearing going slipping. I am debating on rebuilding the 1FZ-FE or looking into a 1HD-FTE swap.
Can anyone give me some specifics on this kind of swap, like:
1. how much the motor might cost?
2. how big of a pain is it to convert all the lines and tank to diesel?
3. how big of difference is the wiring harnesses?
4. is it worth doing?

I would like to know.
 
The biggest problem is going from petrol to diesel. Most conversions on this side of the globe go from 1HZ/DT/FT diesel to the FTE. And you can get full replacement wiring harness's. If you budget for just the install of the FTE without powering it up. I wouldnt bother. If you budget some upgrades - HHHEELLLLL yeah its worth it....
 
1. how much the motor might cost?
2. how big of a pain is it to convert all the lines and tank to diesel?
3. how big of difference is the wiring harnesses?
4. is it worth doing?

I am "almost done" a similar swap myself... "Just" gotta hook up some wires to make the engine start. I had a JDM 80 with the 1HD-T and automatic transmission for three years and I decided it was time to get the steering wheel on the proper side and switch to a manual transmission while I'm at it. So I bought a FZJ80 in Portland and drove it home and began the swap...

To answer your questions:
1. Based on my research you can't get one for much less than $10k. Especially with shipping from Australia or Japan. Check www.ebay.com.au and you'll see prices. Shipping in a crate will be at least $1000 with fees and taxes. ON THE OTHER HAND, I only paid $10,500 for my entire JDM truck here in Canada. And I had the pleasure of driving it for three years before I started the swap. I know you can't do this in the USA but.... What if you bought a JDM in Canada and cut it in half and brought each half down as a half-cut or something? Or just a U-Haul truck van full of parts? Having the donor truck in my back yard was EXTREMELY helpful. I can't imagine doing the swap without it... So many little parts that are diesel specific which you'd spend years searching for, or else have to jimmy rig.

2. Not much of a pain. The tanks are identical -- only the sending units are different. I left my gas tank in the truck and just drained it. A few drops of gasoline left over isn't going to kill the diesel engine. You should be able to get the diesel sending unit from Akella. The lines are different, and I did swap mine since I had them sitting here. The diesel has a larger diameter suction line (no fuel pump in sending unit) and a normal return line. Gas has a smaller diameter pressured line (fuel pump in sending unit), a return line, and a vent line that goes to the charcoal canister. The diesel tank does have the third fitting, but it just vents through a filter behind the tank and into the frame. I know other swaps that retained the gasser lines, but they had to add an in-line fuel pump to provide enough diesel to the engine at higher loads. I guess the smaller diameter pipe can't provide the flow without a little help, especially cold weather.

3. Wiring harnesses are completely different. Also I am doing LHD vs RHD. After pouring over EWDs, I think the easiest idea is.... Leave the harness connected to the engine, and leave the truck's harness hanging out of the firewall. Then splice as necessary. This is the stage I'm at. Obviously there are way fewer wires going to the diesel engine. I am just starting by making the starter spin, fuel cut solenoid open, then I'll move on to making the gauges work. You mentioned 1HD-FTE, but..... you really don't want to do this swap. The "E" means electronically controlled injection and I'm pretty sure this will be next to impossible. You can do a 1HD-FT (24 valve but no electronics). These engines seem to be extremely hard to find, so I just stuck with what was available locally... the 12 valve 1HD-T. I also have no idea how you'd make an electronically controlled transmission work...... But I wanted 5 speed so my only electronics is the switch for reverse lights! You could also find a donor truck with a mechanical automatic. (Mine had this but I sold it.)

4. Yes. If it will put a smile on your face every time you start the truck it is worth every penny! The diesel also has way more top end power and will burn about 60% as much fuel. I didn't realize just how gutless and thirsty the gasser was until I bought one and drove it for a couple months waiting for my 5 speed to arrive from Australia.
 
I love the 1HD-T and 1HD-FT

But if you want the BEST economy and the MOST torque and MOST power..... you need 1HD-FTE and a Gturbo Bad Boy Kit.

Below is a dyno I received a few weeks ago. I also have the video of it showing exhaust condition which is crazy clean.

Std this is the Ute (HDJ79) and it makes 119hp on same dyno (this is at wheels power) in std trim.

After mods; 284whp. Actually it did 294whp in "Shootout mode" which always gives a higher number. Peak torque at crank was ~ 860nm. I could definately pump the torque up on this. I tuned this in Perth (at least, I programmed teh chip) and the dyno was done 4500km away - Ive not seen the car or met the owner. NO other tuning was done :-)

Mods:

* 3" exhaust
* XXi Airbox upgrade
* front mount air to air cooler (not sure from whom)
* Gturbo Bad Boy 1HD-FTE package

Zero other mods, no other fusel, no water/meth etc etc and almost no smoke - cleaner than some OEM cars.

Screen Shot 2013-10-23 at 7.39.57 AM.webp
 
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Were there any final updates on this swap? I am considering doing the same. I am just starting my research. Thanks

You'll find it's roughly 10X harder to swap to an FTE instead of settling on a 1HD-T or -FT, and only 30% better, not worth the effort. Swapping to a 1HD-T or -FT however, is well worth the effort.
 
If you want to use a 1HD FTE, its easier to add a 1HD FT injection pump and avoid all the wiring headaches. But finding a 1HD FT pump unattached to an engine is not easy.
 
You'll find it's roughly 10X harder to swap to an FTE instead of settling on a 1HD-T or -FT, and only 30% better, not worth the effort. Swapping to a 1HD-T or -FT however, is well worth the effort.
No, definitely not 10X harder. And 30% gain is actually quite big. My FTE is still stock tune and goes better than a VDJ79 (on paper they're equal).

I’m going against the grain (or with GBentnik) - go the FTE. Newer updated head, rods and pistons. Gigantic power potential and a lot more power and torque stock (100 series not 79). Much better fuel economy, never any smoke. Much cheaper to get than an FT, no big end issues ever (FT neither though).

I swapped one into my petrol 105, it took me 6 weeks all up of evenings and some weekends (probably half of them). The electrical side wasn’t a big drama, less than a week in total, that’s with me splicing the loom in.

Making the FMIC brackets and pipework was more work. I also swapped the later dash in which I didn’t have to. And I made the exhaust. If it had been a straight swap with no upgrades and a purchased exhaust it would have taken 4 weeks max.

An 80 would be no harder. Being a petrol you already have the relays in place (apart from spill you’d need to add that). The wiring is so much less work than people bang on about
 
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on Dyno or butt test ...?
butt... with a bit of speedo thrown in. E.G. - a particular local hill. Starting at 80km/hr, Mine will be at 105 at the top, the VDJ 95. On the other side, starting at 100 mine will be at 120 by the top, the VDJ still at 100. A relatively steep hill. And just in general "giving it some jam" feels much better in mine. The VDJ had a brand new engine fitted by toyota 60k ago, but is stock running 235/85R16, mine has a stock tune running 14psi, 3" exhaust, 600x300 FMIC with 2.5" piping, no egr or intake heater running 285/75R16 but has 403k km on it
 
@Young Bull, here's a lot of good information, albeit on an FT swap. Plan on spending some serious coin and sourcing parts from all over the globe. In my opinion, it's worth it. But you need to be really serious and understand that it is no small undertaking in North America where these engines were never imported. I'd be expecting to pay anywhere from $7K-$10K for a motor alone after you finish dicking around with customs. Ask me how I know......
Builds - Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap
 
butt... with a bit of speedo thrown in. E.G. - a particular local hill. Starting at 80km/hr, Mine will be at 105 at the top, the VDJ 95. On the other side, starting at 100 mine will be at 120 by the top, the VDJ still at 100. A relatively steep hill. And just in general "giving it some jam" feels much better in mine. The VDJ had a brand new engine fitted by toyota 60k ago, but is stock running 235/85R16, mine has a stock tune running 14psi, 3" exhaust, 600x300 FMIC with 2.5" piping, no egr or intake heater running 285/75R16 but has 403k km on it

There's a LOT Of factors that are not being considered here, vehicle weight, the extra 4psi you're running with an IC, 3" exhaust, etc.
 
There's a LOT Of factors that are not being considered here, vehicle weight, the extra 4psi you're running with an IC, 3" exhaust, etc.
Yes maybe it’s not quite fair - that’s why I put the details up for comparison, they certainly are being considered. But they’re not all in my favour - I’m running bigger heavier tyres, mine weighs quite a lot more (and vdj was empty), it’s only about 2 extra psi (vdj79 would be running more I’m pretty sure), mine has 240k more in km on it. Obviously the 1vd has a lot more in it and I’m under no illusion mine would fall behind a vdj200. But a chip, turbo and injectors would reverse that
 
There's a LOT Of factors that are not being considered here, vehicle weight, the extra 4psi you're running with an IC, 3" exhaust, etc.

Why I'm agree I could only thing that the V8 have more " potential " to make big numbers .. bigger than the inline 6 .. knowing that Mr. T it's very conservative with the power output on their motors in pro of longevity ...
 
Yep As I said - there is a lot more in the v8. However there is also a lot more in the fte as well. My mods aside, vdj79 and hdj100 have the same power figures (aus spec at least). People are regularly pulling 300+ (400 not unusual) hp at the wheels with ftes here. I’m sure the 1vd goes higher, but $/hp for mods they’d be the same or better for fte.

But that’s not really my point - I was just highlighting an fte with a stock tune goes really hard, far better than a stock FT, let alone T. Of course the T and FT are far easier and cheaper to tune... I don’t consider exhaust and IC mods to be standalone power mods - they’re more paving the way for real power mods later.
 
I believe we can all agreed on the FTE vs FT or T ( at least me ) .. even I believe with the right amount of $$ you can make the FT go way harder .. cheaper ..
 
A big draw of the diesel for me in the first place was that it requires almost no electricity to run. You lose that simplicity going to an electronically controlled engine.

YMMV depending on your uses.
 
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