Things to do BEFORE installing skid plates (1 Viewer)

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Hi I'm getting ready to install bud built sliders and skids on my 1st Land cruiser a 2021 Heritage. Question: is there anything I need to do under the vehicle BEFORE installing the skids? The skids have cutouts for oil drain access. Thanks in advance.
 
Are you asking purely about the vehicle prep or tips on streamlining the installation? A couple thoughts on both points...

The BB skids cover up quite a bit of the undercarriage, so it'd be worth cleaning the undercarriage in advance. If your truck has only seen highways and dirt then just a garden sprinkler on autopilot / hose / light power washer should suffice. Alternatively, if you've encountered a lot of mud, salt, dirt, or any combination of those three then consider a more comprehensive undercarriage cleaning (my local shop uses pressurized steam).

I just removed my BB skids last weekend and had the undercarriage steam-cleaned to get rid of Moab cement. If you're doing the install yourself here are a few tips:
  • Verify that you have all the hardware.
  • Follow Rob's instructions here (discussed somewhere in one of the threads below) and/or on YouTube (see below).
  • Make sure you have a transmission jack, floor jack, or a couple extra sets of hands to get the skids positioned.
  • You'll have to remove the stock transfer case "skid / extra piece of useless metal" and potentially the damper (I forget) to install the transfer case skid cross member -- be careful not to strip any of those threaded holes as the screws don't take much force.
  • Have some spray paint on hand to touch up the splash guard / heat shield that you have to remove and modify for the transfer case skid cross member
  • The vehicle's crossmember that the transfer case skid cross member attaches to requires some significant torque (will have to look up the value)... especially hard if you're laying on the ground so an impact or long breaker bar will be useful.
  • Have some anti-seize on hand for the bolts...
  • As mentioned in the instructions, start with the transfer case skid and work your way forward... keep all fasteners loose until everything is in place and then tighten a bit at a time. None of the fasteners need to be cranked down but they do need to be tight enough. It's better to potentially under-tighten, drive around for a bit, and then tighten anything up that seems loose. Over-torquing the skids is easy to do.

 
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Grease your driveshaft. The zerk fittings aren’t accessible without taking the skids down. Hit your kdss valve body with lps3 or marine grease.

If you plan to run extended breathers up to the engine bay, it is also a good time to run any lines like that.
 
Grease your driveshaft. The zerk fittings aren’t accessible without taking the skids down. Hit your kdss valve body with lps3 or marine grease.

If you plan to run extended breathers up to the engine bay, it is also a good time to run any lines like that.

I'm glad you mentioned hitting the grease zerks... totally forgot about that as there's no way you're getting to the two front u-joint zerks and even the shaft would be difficult with the skids on.
 
I'm glad you mentioned hitting the grease zerks... totally forgot about that as there's no way you're getting to the two front u-joint zerks and even the shaft would be difficult with the skids on.
Correct on the front driveshaft, skid must come off. I didn’t have to remove a BB skid to grease the rear driveshaft.

All great advice above.

Would not hurt to treat undercarriage with some Wool Wax before putting those skids on. Rattle cans of it or sprayer and the 5 gallon will last you a few years w seasonal applications. VDOT went crazy this past winter on treating roads in my area w salt and other corrosive stuff, not sure which part of VA your in.
 
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While it might be good for protection, I wouldn’t want to install sliders after woolwax/fluid film/etc spraying. Sounds messy...
 
While it might be good for protection, I wouldn’t want to install sliders after woolwax/fluid film/etc spraying. Sounds messy...
Agreed on BB sliders, very messy installing to frame with all the mounting hardware. Skids not too bad.
 
Install a Fumoto or similar drain valve if you go that route as it's hard to get a wrench on it after the plate is on.
 
While it might be good for protection, I wouldn’t want to install sliders after woolwax/fluid film/etc spraying. Sounds messy...
No one does! It is a mess. Especially woolwax. It gets all over everything. But that is the stuff that's going to protect your vehicle from rust. If you live in the rust belt it is a necessary evil. Heck the skids are for protection. No point installing them when they are going to rot the frame and cause real structural damage. Grease it before you install them. Just wear gloves and have some rags. Wouldn't hurt to respray the areas that where rubbed during the install. Woolwax and fluid film creeps.
 

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