Things to check while transmission is removed? (1 Viewer)

[findtherightlin]

Above from the 86 land cruiser maintenance manual. I use Sta-lube 80w90 GL-4 hypoid gear oil in the trans and t'case.

This brings me back to not really understanding why the bypass hose can't be used as a long term solution and why it would be good for me to remove it if/when I rebuild the t case. Everyone keeps telling me that it's a bandaid and that it's not good for long term use, but no one has said WHY. If they both use the same oil, and the hose evens out the levels if there is some migration, what's the harm in running the hose? Not trying to be a contrarian dick head here, just trying to understand why a land cruiser specialist with God knows how many years of experience would tell me the bypass hose is a great solution if it isn't. I really appreciate everyone who's responded so far.

 

[g-man]

Do you take your truck off road? What if you snag the hose on a rock or branch? A hose has a greater chance of developing a catastrophic leak than the case, or the fill or drain plug. Is the hose supported in a few areas so it won't bounce? It can develop leaks. You will have no reason to run with it on there after the seal is fixed. You can check your gear oil often and make sure it's not over/under filled, and I would check it several times after you rebuild.

Speaking of checking your t-case oil, be advised that you can easily strip the threads in the aluminum case if you over tighten the stock steel fill plug. It has happened to MANY including myself. When putting a large wrench on the plug and tightening it is easy to put too much pressure. Especially when your lying on your back upside down struggling for a comfortable position. Inspect the female threads in the fill plug hole and if they are damaged Wit's end co. sells a round magnetic allen head plug as a replacement. His is longer and can catch the back 3 or so remaining threads that the stock plug doesn't reach. Also using a small allen wrench to turn the plug it's less likely you will over torque it.

 

[findtherightlin]

All FJ60s have a split transfer case. Measure the OD of the idler shaft (you can see it at the rear of the case) to see if it's 34mm or 38mm. That'll help narrow it down. There should be a date code stamped on the case, the location varies. On the split case I'm currently rebuilding it's stamped along the edge of the rear case half alongside the PTO cover opening. It's stamped 4J3175, "4" is for 1984, "J" is for October (the 10th month), and "3175" is the sequence number for that month.

Looks like my idler shaft is 34mm. I attached a photo of the numbers I found on the t case.... Looks like the bottom half of them didn't make it out of the factory. From what I can tell the first number is a 3, followed by an L. My truck is from 12/1983. Should a t case from this year have the 34mm idler?

 

[g-man]

Can you measure the idler shaft? It sticks out right there in the middle of the back 1/2 of the split case. There is a retainer bolt and tab holding it from turning.

 

[findtherightlin]

Can you measure the idler shaft? It sticks out right there in the middle of the back 1/2 of the split case. There is a retainer bolt and tab holding it from turning.

Yep, I measured it and it's 34mm. And yes, I do wheel my cruiser a little bit. The hose seems pretty tucked away, even with the t case sitting horizontal. Jim used quality fittings for his bypass. The hose can be removed with the black nut at the end of the 90 degree bend, the remove the hollow blue bolt for filling/level checks. I started another thread on where to get an h55, gonna try to convince the wife to let me pull the trigger on one before pulling the t case apart to reseal the 4 speed I don't really want. Cross your fingers for me.

 

[findtherightlin]

So I just got off the phone with Georg at valley hybrids and he confirmed what you've all been trying to tell me: the bypass hose is a bandaid. He even used the work bandaid. Haha. Looks like I might buy an h55 from him, just need to source a t case linkage from an 85-87 60. Thanks for all the replies and for not bashing me too hard for not wanting to give up the bypass hose. I really appreciate it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Most of us started from where you are. GL!

 

[g-man]

sell the by-pass hose, get some wits end plugs. And when you rebuild your transfer case you will get an appreciation of how beefy it is. And you'll be a bit sad that you have a block off plate where the pto gear is.

 

[findtherightlin]

sell the by-pass hose, get some wits end plugs. And when you rebuild your transfer case you will get an appreciation of how beefy it is. And you'll be a bit sad that you have a block off plate where the pto gear is.

I've heard the PTO winches don't perform as well as modern electric models, but it seems with how stout the driveline is a PTO would be a great option.... Are you running one?

 

[g-man]

No, I have an electric winch which is a lot simpler to install. PTO winches are unobtanium as well as all the driveshafts and bits. Also you need to cut a hole in the hump and install another shifter. Just seems like it would be cool to find some usefulness for the pto gear that is attached to nothing.

 

[MarkBC]

Make some Fred Flintstone feet powered by the PTO to get out of trouble.

 

[g-man]

Maybe a blender mounted to the rear bumper that you power from the PTO. Hey we all know these 4 day weekend events are a big party!

 

[g-man]

One more thing that I wish I had done while it was out. Make sure to inspect the pivot area of the clutch fork. There is a depression that get greased and sits on a ball. If the depression is oblong or worn it can affect how the transmission shifts. Best to replace it now if needed.