Things I should know before swapping my fuel pump? (FJ60/2F)

[GeologistFelix]

Ok, so, long story short, my fuel pump is leaking a lot of oil (possibly some fuel as well, but the oil makes that hard to tell), the carb bowl doesn't even fill to the bottom of the window (even after giving everything I could reach through the top of the carb a thorough cleaning), and there is essentially no fuel in the hard line to the carb after running.

So, I'm planning to just replace the pump (with OEM-quality), gaskets, and filter, and see where that gets me. Worst case scenario, I've replaced a 27-year-old component that was leaking oil and it's somethng else causing the lack of fuel delivery.

However, I haven't ever done anything with a mechanical pump before, so I have some ridiculously basic questions.

1. How much oil should I expect to have to catch? I don't have a clear idea of how high the fuel pump is relative to the sump, so I don't know if I need a jug and a funnel, or just some rags.

2. How much fuel am I going to have to deal with with from the lines/old pump/filter? Is there a trick to not getting it all over the place?

3. Do I have to prime/prefill the new filter/pump/etc., or can I just hook it up, pull the choke, and let my battery/starter/fuel in the bowl purge the air from the system?

 

[cwwfj60]

Ok, so, long story short, my fuel pump is leaking a lot of oil (possibly some fuel as well, but the oil makes that hard to tell), the carb bowl doesn't even fill to the bottom of the window (even after giving everything I could reach through the top of the carb a thorough cleaning), and there is essentially no fuel in the hard line to the carb after running.

So, I'm planning to just replace the pump (with OEM-quality), gaskets, and filter, and see where that gets me. Worst case scenario, I've replaced a 27-year-old component that was leaking oil and it's somethng else causing the lack of fuel delivery.

However, I haven't ever done anything with a mechanical pump before, so I have some ridiculously basic questions.

1. How much oil should I expect to have to catch? I don't have a clear idea of how high the fuel pump is relative to the sump, so I don't know if I need a jug and a funnel, or just some rags.

2. How much fuel am I going to have to deal with with from the lines/old pump/filter? Is there a trick to not getting it all over the place?

3. Do I have to prime/prefill the new filter/pump/etc., or can I just hook it up, pull the choke, and let my battery/starter/fuel in the bowl purge the air from the system?

1. You will lose very little oil, if any. But make sure you get a new gasket or isolator as Toyota calls it.

2. You will also not lose a whole lot of fuel, especially if it isn't working. Just use a drain pan, and some cardboard cause I never make it all in the pan.

3. Yes, long as your battery is in good shape (fully charged) it shouldn't take more than 15-20 seconds or so to fill up the carb.

I have just finished hunting down some fuel delivery issues. Long story short I would replace the two rubber lines that are on each side of the filter (5/16" about 3 feet or so) as well as a new filter and make sure your carb hasn't gotten a bunch of junk in it.

w

 

[cwwfj60]

oh yeah and one other short 6" piece of hose from the pump to the hard line.

 

[Spike Strip]

No prime. Just remove the two bolts (and hoses) and pull. Don't need to replace the insulator unless it's crumbling. There are gaskets on either side of the insulator that may or may not be bonded to the insulator. If it's questionable, just replace all, as they're cheap.

Get the Kyosan pump (OEM). The dealer may even be the same price.

I use a thin smear of grey rtv on the gaskets.

And change it soon. Gas in the oil is not a good thing.

 

[GeologistFelix]

No prime. Just remove the two bolts (and hoses) and pull. Don't need to replace the insulator unless it's crumbling. There are gaskets on either side of the insulator that may or may not be bonded to the insulator. If it's questionable, just replace all, as they're cheap.

Get the Kyosan pump (OEM). The dealer may even be the same price.

I use a thin smear of grey rtv on the gaskets.

And change it soon. Gas in the oil is not a good thing.

No gas in the engine oil. The question is if the fuel weep hole is leaking along with the oil that definitely *is* leaking. And, I haven't been driving it since the problem started in earnest.

 

[TobyB]

My version-

1- none.

2- quite a bit, especially if you unhook the lines first. It holds a surprising amount. That said, a cookie sheet or catering tub underneath will catch it all

3- do this- start and run the truck before you do this. Maybe even warm it up.
Then change the pump. Then restart. The truck will start and run on what's in the
carb, and that'll get fuel flowing fastest. Otherwise, you'll crank for a while, if the
bowl is low/empty.

Do pay attention to how the arm comes out of the block, and make sure the new one
goes in the same way. A parts engine had the cam lobe for the pump all chewed up-
looks like they jammed the pump in the wrong way, or forgot the spacer, or SOMETHING.

hth

t

 

[60Works]

The spacer is a critical part. Without it your new pump won't last long and it might damage the cam lobe.

I highly recommend going with OEM. A failed pump will leave you stranded.

On a separate wiz-bang note: gasoline in the oil is not good but it's also not as bad as one might think (depending on the mixture). Before there were synthetic and multi-weight oils it was common practice to add gas to the engine oil of piston aircraft operating in extremely cold climates. (Think bush pilots in Alaska at -40°F running a Super Cub on skis.) The gas would thin the oil enough so the engine would crank and start. As it warmed up the gas would evaporate leaving just the oil. Of course this was back when av gas had a high lead content and no detergents.

 

[Cruzerman]

I believe that Carter also sells an OEM pump.

 

[Elbert]

get OEM replacement pump, get required gaskets and spacer if needed. You might consider having the front of the vehcile higher than the rear or use some pliers to pinch the rubber line that feeds the pump while you change it.

disconnet fuel hoses to pump...obviously paying attention to what connects to what using the proper wrenches. Unbolt fuel pump and remove, paying attention to gaskets and the orientation of the fuel pump.
Install new fuel pump and re-attach everything removed. Remove pliers from fuel hose. Crank engine and go.

Make sure you don't have gas in the oil...if you do change the oil before you start or run the engine. No priming or other things required prior to swapping.

 

[GeologistFelix]

Make sure you don't have gas in the oil...if you do change the oil before you start or run the engine. No priming or other things required prior to swapping.

As I said, no gas in the oil that's actually *in* the engine. I'm just unsure if the weep hole on the pump (which I hear is supposed to leak fuel when the pump goes bad) is actually leaking fuel, because of the oil leak that's in the same area is making everything so messy down there.

 

[Spike Strip]

If gas is out the weeper, you'll smell it.

 

[TobyB]

yeah, agreed, and there are seldom small fuel leaks from the pump- once the diaphragm
starts to go, it goes big- time. Usually.

t

 

[MScatena]

I just did mine two weeks ago 84' FJ60. Got the pump from Oreilly's Auto (I don't care about OEM, it was sunday anyway...).

Sprayed engine bay with degreaser before I went to parts store.

Pulled the three lines off with ease (one feed, one to carb, one return to tank), small needle nose pliers. Only a small amount of fuel dripped from lines, simple rag caught it.

Removed two bolts (12mm IIRC) the one forward under the AC was a pain due to angles. The pump held a bunch of fluid (well the size of the pump so 1cup) it will drain out.

used form-a-gasget to hold the new seal on the pump, installed the new pump (again forward bolt tougher) tougher to install than remove doe to spring pressure and cam location

installed the lines

I did prime the pump with a hand bubble pump at the carb entry

turned over the engine and bam fired right up no issues

 

[gregnash]

So if a pump is slowly failing what are some warning signs?
I occassionally will get it where I have to crank and crank and crank and crank even with priming with the skinny pedal (normally on colder mornings or when she has been sitting for more than a day).

I have gotten in the habit of getting in the truck, turning the key to ACC and then putting my belt on and waiting for the fuel gauge to register up to almost the last place I remember it being and then try to crank her. When she has been run recently this normally results in her firing within the first crank or two, but not always.

Also, recently I have starting hearing a "gurgling" coming from the tank like the pump is bubbling or something. This has only happened a handful of times in the last few months but is something that gives me the "oh well at least the pump is working" notion. But it does not affect if the engine fires right up or not.

I am hoping that this is more of the "woshs" of owning a carb but just want to be prepared should I replace the pump in the near future (and I would rather go OEM).

 

[GeologistFelix]

The 'cranks forever when cold' problem sounds just like mine acted last winter.

Anyway, I ended up ordering a Kyosan pump (OEM manufacturer, but isn't stamped 'TEQ').

For anyone wondering, the part number is 2310061070.

It looks like it comes with both replacement gaskets; no idea about the spacer, but it looks like Beck Arnley makes one, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CAXRVW which is nice and cheap.

The hose and filter I'll just get locally.

 

[MScatena]

I have gotten in the habit of getting in the truck, turning the key to ACC and then putting my belt on and waiting for the fuel gauge to register up to almost the last place I remember it being and then try to crank her. When she has been run recently this normally results in her firing within the first crank or two, but not always.

You don't have an electric pump so turning to ACC does not help in the fuel pump department.

this is the pump I bought local at oreillys
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AIX0/1414.oap?ck=Search_1414_1276499_3870&keyword=1414

 

[GeologistFelix]

UPDATE

Put the new fuel pump in, definitely getting plenty of fuel to the carb now...but the level was still below the sight glass. It also was barely running.

So, I took the top off of the carb to get a look at everything...

First off, there was a lot of carbon buildup in the primary barrel, and virtually none in the secondary.

Secondly, there was a little pile of super-fine silt/dust in the bottom of the bowl, next to one of the jets.

When I got the engine kinda-sorta half running, then shut it off, a bunch of fuel was *pouring* out of some passage just above the throttle plate, in both barrels.

Long story short, I'm going to be taking my carb apart and cleaning everything out. Ugh.

 

[ModisetteJ]

I just did mine two weeks ago 84' FJ60. Got the pump from Oreilly's Auto (I don't care about OEM, it was sunday anyway...).

Sprayed engine bay with degreaser before I went to parts store.

Pulled the three lines off with ease (one feed, one to carb, one return to tank), small needle nose pliers. Only a small amount of fuel dripped from lines, simple rag caught it.

Removed two bolts (12mm IIRC) the one forward under the AC was a pain due to angles. The pump held a bunch of fluid (well the size of the pump so 1cup) it will drain out.

used form-a-gasget to hold the new seal on the pump, installed the new pump (again forward bolt tougher) tougher to install than remove doe to spring pressure and cam location

installed the lines

I did prime the pump with a hand bubble pump at the carb entry

turned over the engine and bam fired right up no issues

I did this last may, and im currently replacing my fuel pump again. Hopefully you have better luck than me.

 

[sacfj60]

How exactly does the rocker arm fit in? does it slot into place or just pop in? Do i need to slide it into something?

 

[Zjohnsonua]

There's an opening in the block. The arm fits through and is actuated by a lobe on the cam. If you're feeling resistance, roll the engine over a bit to relieve the spring pressure and finish the install.