Builds TheGrrrrr Build Thread - 2013 LC (2 Viewers)

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I haven't had a chance to use them much in the wild but I have high expectations for them. The Aussies seem to love them and I am extremely impressed with the build quality, brightness and light pattern. The packaging even rises to whole new level. Lots of customization options with colored lenses, different lens covers and colored accent rings. STEDI is doing a lot of things right.
Type-X Pro?
 
Yep. The big boys.
I was looking on the Stedi site and didn't see any amber colored spot/flood lights other than small square ones. I suspect no one makes an amber light at strong as the TypeX Pro. What made you decide to go white vs. amber? Maybe its you live in the desert (no rain or snow)?
 
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I was looking on the Stedi site and didn't see any amber colored spot/flood lights other than small square ones. I suspect no one makes an amber light at strong as the TypeX Pro. What made you decide to go white vs. amber? Maybe its you live in the desert (no rain or snow)?

They have lens covers for the Type-X Pros. I have the ones in the photos, also clear ones, floods and yellow ones. You can swap between them.

Replacement cover for STEDI 8.5 Inch TYPE-X LED Driving Lights


Available in the following styles:

  • Smiley
  • STEDI Logo
  • Transparent Blue
  • Transparent Green
  • Transparent Yellow
  • Clear
  • Blood Splatter
  • Carbon print
  • Flood
  • Snow Camouflage
  • Stencil Outline
Please Note: These covers are specifically designed to fit the STEDI TYPE X: Pro, Sport, and V1 8.5 inch LED Spot Light ONLY



 
They have lens covers for the Type-X Pros. I have the ones in the photos, also clear ones, floods and yellow ones. You can swap between them.

Replacement cover for STEDI 8.5 Inch TYPE-X LED Driving Lights


Available in the following styles:

  • Smiley
  • STEDI Logo
  • Transparent Blue
  • Transparent Green
  • Transparent Yellow
  • Clear
  • Blood Splatter
  • Carbon print
  • Flood
  • Snow Camouflage
  • Stencil Outline
Please Note: These covers are specifically designed to fit the STEDI TYPE X: Pro, Sport, and V1 8.5 inch LED Spot Light ONLY



any issues with your radar cruise?
 
any issues with your radar cruise?

None. I think I could go even closer together without any issue. I've seen others that had a more narrow configuration without issue as well.
 
Just got my first oil analysis back from Blackstone. 113,524 miles and everything looks decent. This is 3,000 miles on the oil, but nearly 7,000 miles on the oil filter... long story. Anyway, not bad.

13 LAND CRUISER-221219.jpg
 
I'm getting ready to have the paint around the fuel filler fixed and came up with an ounce of prevention until/unless someone figures out how to keep the gas from boiling on long, high-altitude summer trail runs... or whatever the true cause is. I picked up some of that PIG Mat sorbent material and fashioned a dickey for the fuel filler. I call it a dickey, because calling it a bib makes me feel sad. This is the part where you call me a genius...


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Not that you’re not a genius but I’ve always been told to keep gasoline away from my dickey. :rofl:
 
I'm getting ready to have the paint around the fuel filler fixed and came up with an ounce of prevention until/unless someone figures out how to keep the gas from boiling on long, high-altitude summer trail runs... or whatever the true cause is. I picked up some of that PIG Mat sorbent material and fashioned a dickey for the fuel filler. I call it a dickey, because calling it a bib makes me feel sad. This is the part where you call me a genius...


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Could you use the 3M clear paint protection film around that area?
 
Could you use the 3M clear paint protection film around that area?

Yeah, that might be a decent option once it has fresh paint and clear coat. My only concern is that gas would find its way to the edges and release the adhesive pretty quickly. Even if I do PPF, I'll keep the dickey just in case, and for dribbles at the pump.
 
Yeah, that might be a decent option once it has fresh paint and clear coat. My only concern is that gas would find its way to the edges and release the adhesive pretty quickly. Even if I do PPF, I'll keep the dickey just in case, and for dribbles at the pump.

Do you have the LRA? Are you finding that the fuel only boils at altitude? In warm/hot weather only or at any temp? Only after running for quite some time or within minutes of startup as well?
 
Do you have the LRA? Are you finding that the fuel only boils at altitude? In warm/hot weather only or at any temp? Only after running for quite some time or within minutes of startup as well?

No LRA. It seems to happen mostly when spending long periods of time at low speeds on trails in groups with frequent pauses off-camber. Its notorious in Moab, but also happens here in Arizona. As far as ambient temps go, I'm not sure I've noticed it when wheeling in snow or in the cold, but certainly it happens at Cruise Moab in April which certainly isn't hot by any means. I'm not sure my truck has ever spent time below 1000ft so its hard to say what role altitude plays. It doesn't happen under normal driving conditions.

There is a ton of theory on the topic across many threads, including this one, but the most plausible at this point has to do with the way the engine uses excess fuel being pumped, to cool parts of the engine and then returning it to the fuel tank at a very high temperature. In those long crawling situations, you are theoretically returning a higher volume of heated fuel to the tank due to the fact that the fuel pump is pushing full volume at all times. I'm working on an experiment to add a fuel cooler to the return line, but haven't had the stones to actually do it yet.
 
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No LRA. It seems to happen mostly when spending long periods of time at low speeds on trails in groups with frequent pauses off-camber. Its notorious in Moab, but also happens here in Arizona. As far as ambient temps go, I'm not sure I've noticed it when wheeling in snow or in the cold, but certainly it happens at Cruise Moab in April which certainly isn't hot by any means. I'm not sure my truck has ever spent time below 1000ft so its hard to say what role altitude plays. It doesn't happen under normal driving conditions.

There is a ton of theory on the topic across many threads, including this one, but the most plausible at this point has to do with the way the engine uses excess fuel being pumped, to cool parts of the engine and then returning it to the fuel tank at a very high temperature. In those long crawling situations, you are theoretically returning a higher volume of heated fuel to the tank due to the fact that the fuel pump is pushing full volume at all times. I'm working on an experiment to add a fuel cooler to the return line, but haven't had the stones to actually do it yet.

Is it safe to say that with a half tank of fuel or less this isn't an issue due to there being room in the tank for expansion?
 
Is it safe to say that with a half tank of fuel or less this isn't an issue due to there being room in the tank for expansion?

I'd like to say yes, but I'm just not sure. I think the distinction would be actual fuel boiling out versus fuel vapors boiling out. The fuel vapors boiling out I think would still be an issue. Its really frustrating stopping on the trail for lunch or to take some photos and the fuel smell has everyone checking their rigs for leaks even though I'm pretty sure its the only 200 in the group thats causing it. At LCDC its bizarre that some of the rigs have the issue at any given time and others don't and the next day some that didn't the day before will and some that did, won't.
 
Interesting, I'll have to look into this further. BTW, is there a Cruise Moab thread for this year?
 
Interesting, I'll have to look into this further. BTW, is there a Cruise Moab thread for this year?

I don't think I've seen one yet, but the registration is this Saturday, so I would expect it to pop up soon.
 
I don't think I've seen one yet, but the registration is this Saturday, so I would expect it to pop up soon.

I just went ahead and created it. Hope I'm not stepping on any toes.

 
Current Build Summary

Odometer: 114,217 miles

Fluids:
  • Engine Oil: Mobil 1 5w-30 Full Synthetic
  • Diffs/TC: Mobil 1 75w-90
  • Transmission: Toyota OEM
  • Power Steering: Toyota OEM
  • Brake Fluid: Toyota OEM
  • Coolant: Toyota OEM
Exterior/Armor/Lighting Mods:
  • Dissent Low Profile Front Bumper
    • Rigid Clear Fogs
    • STEDI Type-X Pro Spots
    • Smittybuilt X2O 12k Winch
  • Budbuilt Rock Sliders with Kick-out and diamond plate fill
  • Budbuilt full skids including fuel tank (mix of Stainless Steel and Aluminum)
  • Dissent fill plate between Budbuilt Skids and Dissent Front Bumper
  • STEDI or VLED LED Replacement bulbs in all OEM locations where available except Low-Beam (OEM)
  • Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform and Backbone system
    • Rigid Light Bar
    • Victron 100w Solar Panel
    • Diode Dynamics amber chase lights
    • Truck bed LED strips with 12v remote dimmer spliced in for the underside of roof rack for camp lighting
    • BUSH Company 270 XT awning
    • WaterPort 8 Gallon tank
    • Kaon MaxTrax Mounts
  • Rear lower control arm skids from @turbo8
  • @TRAIL TAILOR rear shock protection and RLCA bracket skids
Wiring/Electrical/Radio:
  • X2 Power Dual-Purpose (Starting/Deep Cycle) AGM for starting battery
  • Victron 100ah Lithium battery in drawer wing for aux power
  • RedArc BCDC 1225 mounted to forward drawer face with Blue Sea distribution block
  • Victron 1000w Inverter mounted to forward drawer face with remote switch and receptacles mounted in drawer wing face
  • Two Garmin Powerswitches (one in engine bay connected to starting battery and one in drawer wing connected to Aux battery)
  • Diode Dynamics Flasher Relay
  • Various USB-A, USB-C and 12v accessory ports around the cabin and drawer wing face
  • Baja Designs switched dome lights in rear liftgate (2x white, 1x red)
  • Rear liftgate interior release button
  • Yaesu FTM-400DXR (modded) on HuddExpo Ram Style Mount for CD Slot
  • Comet lip mount and 38inch dual band antenna
Wheels/Tires/Brakes/Suspension/Axels:
  • 5x Rock Warriors
  • 5x 285/75/17 C Nitto Ridge Grapplers
  • Bora .75 inch spacers
  • Power Stop Z36 Brake System on all four corners including pads and rotors.
  • Stoptech/Centric Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
  • SPC Upper Control Arms
  • OME Nitrocharger 91005-P/2703 Front, 61030-P/2723 Rear
  • Revolution Gears 4.88, REM Polished and Cryo'd (set up by Zuk)
  • Eaton eLockers front and rear (set up by Zuk)
  • Timbren Active-Offroad Bumpstops
  • Dobinsons Snorkel
  • Sy-Klone pre-cleaner
  • ARB Triple Compressor (ARB Twin on @sleeoffroad mount and ARB Single wired together and airlines T'd together for 3 piston output
  • ARB Quick connects in engine bay and inside tailgate
Interior:
  • OEM Rubber Floor Mats
  • BH3D Double Flask cupholder
  • Escort 360Max Radar Detector with Mirror-Tap
  • Wolfbox G840S Rearview Mirror Screen/Rear Camera/Dashcam
  • TACKFORM Enduro iPad mount
  • Dobinsons Drawers
  • Kaon MOLLE panels
  • Kaon Shelf
  • Element Fire extinguisher on magnet mount stuck to Kaon MOLLE panel

Planned/Purchased/Schedule Upgrades:

February 15th:
  • Panhard Correction Bracket from @eimkeith
  • Adjust front bumper
    • 3/8" -5/8" gap between body to allow for flex.
    • Center the bumper
    • Fix Tupperware mounting clip
    • Adjust fog lights
      • Aim forward in lane of travel and beams hitting road no further than 75 feet. (AZ law)
    • Aim STEDI after bumper adjustment.
    • Remove old ARB red recovery points. Will need new (shorter) bolts grade 8 or higher.
Whenever it arrives:
  • Dissent Rear Bumper with DS Tire Carrier swing out and PS aluminum tray swing out.
  • Add mounting bracket to tray swing out for 10lb propane bottle
  • Wire and install 80 series diff locker switch/panel from @cruiseroutfit
  • Move CDL button to diff lock panel
  • Add winch power switch in old CDL switch position
  • Add switch for air compressor to diff lock panel
  • Wire High-Beam trigger to Front Garmin Powerswitch trigger 2 (I will tie that trigger to the STEDI spots set at 30%brightness in the software)
  • Wire hazards to rear Garmin Powerswitch trigger 2 (I will tie that trigger to the chase lights (Flashing) in the software)
  • Wire reverse to rear Garmin Powerswitch trigger 1 (I will tie that trigger to the chase lights (ON 100%) in the software)
  • Exhaust Resonator delete
  • Touch up sliders with paint
Next time there is a major sale:
  • 24 gallon LRA aux tank
 
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Dissent bumper installed yesterday. I need to make some adjustments to allow for flex, but I'm very happy with it. More pics after adjustment and better light. And yes, I will remove the tow hooks. My install guy threw them back on because he wasn't sure what I wanted.

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So are we trading? 80 for 200? Radius arms are on and it's back crawling the malls... getting a light polish this weekend me things
 

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