Builds The YotaMD Build - Cypress (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The starter annoyance continues. I think it's am mix of weak battery and bad starter. Today it wouldn't crank on its own, but did crank with a jump pack attached. CTEK battery monitor had battery SOC at 73%. 12.4V while cranking before the jump pack.

Anyways, here's a live update of the cargo area. Top Secret ADGU Kitchen Prototyping underway. Solid Aluminum is sooooo satisfying to machine....

View attachment 3474227
I apologist if I'm repeating myself!

I'm sure we talk about security immobilize, so I'll move past it.

What were dash lights doing, during no start? IG just to turned to ON, then when IG turned to start? Any flickering or clicking at all?

Battery at 12.4V should be enough, provided that is what starter seeing. Maybe worth testing battery with multimeter. At posts, then POS clamp / Neg clamp, then POS clamp and ground (neg) point on engine. To see that all, have same voltage. Just to make sure voltage the same as CTEK reads out.

I had one my GF drove. It had a buggy neutral lock-off switch, and she had a lite touch on shifter. I go start by, jamming into park or shift to N, it would start ever time. Was repeatable, so a no brainer weak PNP SW.

Any chance, you even touched the shifter handle/knob. Between time of no start to when it started, even a lite tap? I've seen buggy natural park switch, keep from starting with 12.4v or even higher voltage. With these, even shaking the vehicle getting in and out, slamming the door or hood "may" activate SW. Very often, shifting from P to N they'll start or just tapping forward in P. Additionally and vibration to starter, may vibrate contacts enough, to move to better spot/contact point. This includes trying to start.

Next would be to test starter relay. This may be tricky. It should be either good or not. But I "suppose" one could have intermittent fault, all though I've not seen.

Weak battery:
One of my 07, which sat to long with what I feel is a weak AMG G24 DieHard battery. It's voltage dropped to 11.4V sitting a week or two.
IG Key to ON, dash lights-up. IG to starter, dash lights flicker accompanied by weak clicking sound. Charged battery for a few days, only getting to 12.5V showing on charger but charger reads100% (done), started right up. This was very clearly, weak battery no start.

If everything above is working as it should, 98% chance this is starter issue!


ADGU Kitchen Prototyping
Looking very COOL!
 
I apologist if I'm repeating myself!

I'm sure we talk about security immobilize, so I'll move past it.

What were dash lights doing, during no start? IG just to turned to ON, then when IG turned to start? Any flickering or clicking at all?

Battery at 12.4V should be enough, provided that is what starter seeing. Maybe worth testing battery with multimeter. At posts, then POS clamp / Neg clamp, then POS clamp and ground (neg) point on engine. To see that all, have same voltage. Just to make sure voltage the same as CTEK reads out.

I had one my GF drove. It had a buggy neutral lock-off switch, and she had a lite touch on shifter. I go start by, jamming into park or shift to N, it would start ever time. Was repeatable, so a no brainer weak PNP SW.

Any chance, you even touched the shifter handle/knob. Between time of no start to when it started, even a lite tap? I've seen buggy natural park switch, keep from starting with 12.4v or even higher voltage. With these, even shaking the vehicle getting in and out, slamming the door or hood "may" activate SW. Very often, shifting from P to N they'll start or just tapping forward in P. Additionally and vibration to starter, may vibrate contacts enough, to move to better spot/contact point. This includes trying to start.

Next would be to test starter relay. This may be tricky. It should be either good or not. But I "suppose" one could have intermittent fault, all though I've not seen.

Weak battery:
One of my 07, which sat to long with what I feel is a weak AMG G24 DieHard battery. It's voltage dropped to 11.4V sitting a week or two.
IG Key to ON, dash lights-up. IG to starter, dash lights flicker accompanied by weak clicking sound. Charged battery for a few days, only getting to 12.5V showing on charger but charger reads100% (done), started right up. This was very clearly, weak battery no start.

If everything above is working as it should, 98% chance this is starter issue!



Looking very COOL!
No flickering or clicking at any point.

I tested voltage across terminals and right at the battery, downstream of battery, etc... Nearly no voltage drop anywhere. I think the biggest drop I found was .1V and that might have just been the battery getting weak after a bunch of crank attempts.

I did not touch the shifter that I can recall.

Since I can hear the starter plunger throw and clearly "thunk" in and out, it seems unlikely to be the relay, but I suppose that's a possibility.

I bought a NOCO HD jump charger so I'll have that handy next time. I don't think it's a weak battery, but perhaps that's a contributor.
 
No flickering or clicking at any point.

I tested voltage across terminals and right at the battery, downstream of battery, etc... Nearly no voltage drop anywhere. I think the biggest drop I found was .1V and that might have just been the battery getting weak after a bunch of crank attempts.

I did not touch the shifter that I can recall.

Since I can hear the starter plunger throw and clearly "thunk" in and out, it seems unlikely to be the relay, but I suppose that's a possibility.

I bought a NOCO HD jump charger so I'll have that handy next time. I don't think it's a weak battery, but perhaps that's a contributor.
Voltage same as read on CTEK and all points. With the oversized battery you have, which they produce a strong crank/starter at lower voltage. So not likely a battery or voltage drop down stream of battery issue.

If sounds, is starter plunger. Then contact points, are making contact with plungers washer. So starter is getting power, and contacts are making contact. Then; Starter circuit is working as should.

You've not mention, hearing starter motor spinning sound.

So 98% chance, starter motor and or Bendix drive malfunction.

With below bad starter. We could hear a sound, like plunger! But sometimes it start others it would not.
This was from a 98LC w/250k, that had intermittent no starter issues for 2 years, before I replaced the starter. It had a remote start installed, before no start issue began. I suspected the remote starter had sometimes to do issue. Conclusion after pulling starter, was; Starter being engaging after engine was running. But will never know for sure. As it could have just been, a failure of the Bendix drive from age.

Starter old (1).JPG
Starter old (2).JPG
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom