the tool to support the knuckle bearings sst #09606-60020 (1 Viewer)

[g-man]

fsm shows using this tool to support the bearings while tapping the bearing caps in place. I haven't heard much discussion about using this tool. What about making a tool from a large bolt and nut? What about putting the bearing caps in the freezer to get them a little smaller?

 

[Prairie Swamp]

I guess the concern is that you might damage the bearings by tapping the cap into the inner race therefore transferring force through the bearing rollers into the outer race. I'm really uptight about such things and even I just tapped the caps in place. The trunnion bearings don't spin at high speed and don't really spin at all.

Unless you're really going gorilla on it I wouldn't worry about it. Putting the caps in the freezer is a good idea. I don't recall if the round posts on the caps extend through the inner race? If they do that makes making a tool a little more complex - if the ends of the tool have to be hollow.

 

[g-man]

I think you could damage the bearing cage by putting excessive force on the inner race of the bearing. I've heard mention of just tightening the bearing cap nuts alternating until it pressed the cap in. But I think a well centered impact socket on the center of the cap and driven in with a hammer is a straight shot and decreases the chance of getting out of square. I might go that route until the pin is 1/2 way in the bearing then snug it down with the nuts.

Here's an image of my upper bearing with bearing cap still in place. It doesn't go all the way through the bearing.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

In stock,

Steering Knuckle Bearing Cup/Race/Arm Remover Service Tool

Toyota Land Cruiser Replica Toyota 09606-60010 Steering Knuckle Bearing Cup/Race/Arm Remover Service Tool Made from 4140 CrMo

trail-tailor.com

Jason

 

[Willard]

Also during your rebuild have you watched the videos from @OTRAMM?

Knuckle Rebuild Video Series

Started shooting a knuckle rebuild video series today. Got the first video of the tear down done. As soon as @CRASHTH gets all the parts cleaned up I'll shoot the second video on using the knuckle centering tool. And then we'll do a third video on reassembly.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[g-man]

That's some serious heavy duty stuff J. And no doubt it has it's place in a Land Cruiser shop. But for me...for once every 5 years or less hopefully, I was thinking about a 5/8 x 11 x 4.5 grade eight bolt with a coupling nut on it. Weld some washers to the head of the bolt and the end of the nut. Washers that fit in the bearing. I'm just thinking about a support tool while pressing the caps back in the bearing. Outer race removal seems simple with a punch b/c there are two notches on either side for placement of the punch. At least on my 87.

 

[60Works]

fsm shows using this tool to support the bearings while tapping the bearing caps in place. I haven't heard much discussion about using this tool. What about making a tool from a large bolt and nut? What about putting the bearing caps in the freezer to get them a little smaller?

View attachment 1984258

Bearing cups (or races) should be gently pressed or tapped in with a protective, flat intermediary (like a bearing driving tool, a brass block or, in a pinch, an oversized socket). Never, ever use the cone to drive or press a cup. If the cup must be driven into a recessed hole, use the removed cup as a spacer to tap the cup below flush. The removed cup can them be driven back out of the recess with a brass punch from below.

Just in case some readers are misunderstanding, this section of the FSM is for assembling the knuckle, not driving the bearing.

The bearing caps should insert into the bearing with very little resistance. If they resist, then they probably aren't aligned properly. The resistance should be from the bearing cap's close fit into the bore of the knuckle, not the cap into the bearing cup. If you're having trouble stick your finger through the cup from the inside and adjust the angle of the cone. It should press onto the cap with only finger pressure. Notice that the picture shows a soft face mallet, not a ball peen hammer. I've never felt the slightest need for this tool and I'm ridiculously anal about my work.

Freezing the cap might help. I've never found it necessary. It's a good idea when driving nearly any bearing cup.

 

[g-man]

What is this green block he's using to drive the race in?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

What is this green block he's using to drive the race in?

G, it’s a block of some sort, wether it’s poly or painted wood installing those doesn’t need to be an example of analysis paralysis. I know, I’ve done it and I’m sure to do it more but really, relax, just tap them in and move on.

 

[Spike Strip]

You don't need anything special to drive in the Trunnion bearing races, just something softer than the race. I just use a hard plastic mallet and that has worked fine many times. You should have a Brass Drift anyway for this, and that will work fine if you gently tap around the rim of the race as you drive it in. Place races in freezer for 20 mins first for easier install.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Can get a bearing race and seal installer kit from harbor freight i have had mu mac tools one for over 20 years its what i use they are mad out of aluminum does the job its made for.

 

[Skniper]

Yea I don't ever recall the outer knuckle bearing caps being difficult to seat on the studs and push into the bearings. Not sure what the SST in the OP is really all about. And don't recall ever having to use the nuts to pull the bearing caps into place.

Tapping bearing races into place properly is important. All good points made above. However you drive them in, don't let them get too cockeyed going in or they will jam. I have an aluminum driver set but @Spike Strip is spot on about the brass drifts. I bought a set of different sized brass drifts many years ago...best tools ever. I always use them for final seating lightly tapping around the race, sooo satisfying to feel a race hit home.

 

[g-man]

Race and seal driver kit is something I've wanted for years. Brass drifts are on my list too.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Race and seal driver kit is something I've wanted for years. Brass drifts are on my list too.

HF has a driver kit. I bought it for my cam bearing install and filed one down for either doing the #1 one or #2. It’s pretty cheap. And the brass drift hammer is great but just a brass rod from Napa does the job easily.

 

[g-man]

reading the next page of the FSM it shows doing the bottom bearing with the tool after the top bearing/cap/and steering arm is done. So looks like the collar goes to the end that (edit) you're working on. And (edit) the other end contacts the inner axle housing. I still think this can be made relatively inexpensively but seems like nobody really cares and that the trunnion bearings are a bit stronger and not easily fubar'd.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Have done more than a dozen front end rebuilds, and have never used that SST. The race is not a particularly tight fit on the steering arm/lower cap pins. There's no way you could damage the trunion bearings by installing, unless you tried to hammer it on with the studs removed. The studs help you align it.