Danish landcruiser (2 Viewers)

[dogfishlake]

I went with flame spraying galvanising on all frame parts and the axle housings when I teared down my Hj60 17 years ago. Then some good industrial ground paint and finish. Today not a spec of rust on the frame or axles. Even did the lower side of the body, like rockers and rear quarters.Apart from the normal paint chips ,no real damage until now.

I forgot about flame spray technology. There is very little of that in the US but would be a nice option. It is like a site sprayed powder coat (usually thermoastic polyethelyne) through a flame and melted on the part. You can coat more parts this way, including axle housings. The galvanizing part can be done with a material with zinc in it. Very cool @sved

 

[sved]

The good part about flame spaying galvanising is that it leaves a kind of a rough surface.This will give a perfect surface for paint to stick on. And it is more flexible on moving parts such as a frame ,then traditional galvanised parts.
Ofcourse you will never reach the inside of the frame ,but that can be solved with rustprotectionspray or oilspray etc.
I literally teared down every bolt and nut from the body and frame ,bare axle housings etc . That is the only sensible way to do it

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The good part about flame spaying galvanising is that it leaves a kind of a rough surface.This will give a perfect surface for paint to stick on. And it is more flexible on moving parts such as a frame ,then traditional galvanised parts.
Ofcourse you will never reach the inside of the frame ,but that can be solved with rustprotectionspray or oilspray etc.
I literally teared down every bolt and nut from the body and frame ,bare axle housings etc . That is the only sensible way to do it
View attachment 1962214View attachment 1962215

Omg I’m seriously in love w/ that blue on barn/rust red! I watched a few YouTube videos on that thermal spray. Very interesting. You didn’t do it yourself right? One specific video appeared like quite the chore... one guy feeding the zinc wire, another holding it from getting tangled and a third doing the spraying.

 

[sved]

It is actually a quiet easy process. 1man operation
.
Dutch movie .
Yep i am a Dutchman living in Sweden.

 

[dogfishlake]

It is actually a quiet easy process. 1man operation
.
Dutch movie .
Yep i am a Dutchman living in Sweden.

I want one of those. Thats sweet.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

It is actually a quiet easy process. 1man operation
.
Dutch movie .
Yep i am a Dutchman living in Sweden.

So then I guess it was the Mexicans that required a bunch of extra hands... can’t find the one I watched now or I’d add it here.

 

[Hojack]

Dude you gotta change your title name, every time I wanna sandwich!

 

[Frkens]

@Hojack om sorry that I'm awakening the hunger within! But you should really get a sandwich!!

Today's work showed me some stuff repaired by the previous owner. It also showed me a crack in the frame. I think the solution will be to grind it a bit and then weld it. However with the front bar that once had a big knock, I'm not sure what to do. I don't think it'll be approved for the roads here in Denmark. I should probably straighten it out or replace it. Any ideas/suggestion??

Here you see the crack. It's the bracket that holds the spring leaf bushing.

A zoom in on the bar that had a knock once. How do you think I should fix it??

A nude of the frame! Everything's off!! Almost the same with the axles. I'm having them sandblasted and painted as is.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

@Hojack om sorry that I'm awakening the hunger within! But you should really get a sandwich!!

Today's work showed me some stuff repaired by the previous owner. It also showed me a crack in the frame. I think the solution will be to grind it a bit and then weld it. However with the front bar that once had a big knock, I'm not sure what to do. I don't think it'll be approved for the roads here in Denmark. I should probably straighten it out or replace it. Any ideas/suggestion??

Here you see the crack. It's the bracket that holds the spring leaf bushing.
View attachment 1964262

A zoom in on the bar that had a knock once. How do you think I should fix it??
View attachment 1964263

A nude of the frame! Everything's off!! Almost the same with the axles. I'm having them sandblasted and painted as is.
View attachment 1964264

Really weird seeing the frame upside down.
I recently added a new lift and found my driver side leaf spring shackle mount was barely attached and the frame cracked too in the same spot. I made a new base plate and added it w/ grade 8 bolts and nuts and welded it back on too. Pics aren’t on my phone but I’ll find them on my thread and I’ll add them in a few. Here they are, surely you can do better than me.

 

[Frkens]

@NeverGiveUpYota it looks like our cracks are in the exact same spot. Nice fix! But what would you do with the front cross bar in my case? Cut it off and make a new one similar to?

I know it's not a big dent, but I'm having the frame galvanized and all. I don't need it to be perfect, but I'd like to have really nice.

 

[FJACS]

You could cut the bottom (facing up in your photo) of the tube open and discard the piece with the wrinkle in it. Limit the cut between the braces. Heat the sides of the tube and work it back into shape. Weld a new strip of metal along the bottom. Grind the seam and galvanize it. Invisible repair.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

You could cut the bottom (facing up in your photo) of the tube open and discard the piece with the wrinkle in it. Limit the cut between the braces. Heat the sides of the tube and work it back into shape. Weld a new strip of metal along the bottom. Grind the seam and galvanize it. Invisible repair.

@Frkens do what he says, I wasn’t in that deep!

 

[Frkens]

Alright everyone. Things are moving very slow, but in the right direction at least. As one of my mates gave me a really fair price on making a new front bar, I decided to have a new one produced. It's looking really good as you can see in the first picture. However when we were getting ready to weld it on, I noticed some measurements that that were a bit odd. So I decided to measure the frame before anything was welded. And as I feared there were an offset from the factory measurements.

F***....

So it's not a lot, but I want to do this properly. And if I have to straighten the frame, that's what I'll do. But do I have to?

As you can see in picture nr. two, I have encircled the measurements that are off the original by a lot (more than 3 milimetres) with a red color. The ones that are yellow encircled are ok. The f-F measurement is off, but it doesn't worry me, as there are no bars going across the two main beams of the frame from measurement H-h and onwards.

On average the three crossgoing measurements are off by 8 milimetres (b-E, E-h and h-K). I think that is a lot. What's your verdict? As you can read in this and other threads, the car did have an impact with a bull in Chile. I'm guessing that's where the misalignment happened.

 

[Frkens]

I could really use some expert advice here.

If no-one comments soon I'll continue the work and accept the measurements are off by 2/5".

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Did you measure the criss cross measurements in pairs? This will give you an indication of squareness of the frame. Compare B-e to b-E for example. If these are within a couple mm I'd run with it. If these are off by 8mm I'd probably take a try at fixing it. If your frame is a little too narrow side to side not much you can do. I'm my mind squareness is important.

 

[Frkens]

@Prairie Swamp yes the measurements are criss-cross measured unfortunately.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

I would take it to a frame shop as is then. It should be relatively inexpensive to have them square it up in it's stripped down state. 8mm is a lot.

 

[Frkens]

I decided to go with it as is. My thoughts were that taking the frame to a frame shop, and having it adjusted, might damage the metal more than the unevenness will (as the unevenness is quite little). So there's no way back now. Or in fact there is, but it's will take a lot of grinding.

Next step will be to get some more bolts to protect the threads in the frame during the sanding and galvanization proces.

Here's the current status:

It's moving along slowly, but it's moving...

 

[dogfishlake]

I decided to go with it as is. My thoughts were that taking the frame to a frame shop, and having it adjusted, might damage the metal more than the unevenness will (as the unevenness is quite little). So there's no way back now. Or in fact there is, but it's will take a lot of grinding.

Next step will be to get some more bolts to protect the threads in the frame during the sanding and galvanization proces.

Here's the current status:

View attachment 2251232View attachment 2251233View attachment 2251234

It's moving along slowly, but it's moving...

Looks great. Nice welds!

 

[dogfishlake]

I could really use some expert advice here.

If no-one comments soon I'll continue the work and accept the measurements are off by 2/5".

Not sure why I missed the last few posts but you can work with that much tolerance. The body bushings will give that much up. Your next biggest thing would be "dog tracking" going down the road, but it won't be an issue with that small of an offset.