My metal lines still have the greenish color coating on them and look really good. I think as long as the steel lines aren't rusty and can be flushed out you probably could just do the soft lines. That is my plan.
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My metal lines still have the greenish color coating on them and look really good. I think as long as the steel lines aren't rusty and can be flushed out you probably could just do the soft lines. That is my plan.
Is there any way you can hook a hot water line to your washer? It should be able to take 140 Fahrenheit (like 60 Celcius, right?) without killing the washer. That heat will make a difference you won't believe with degreasing. Our washer we use at the powder coat shop is at around 70 C and the difference is amazing. Just a thought.
- Thread starter
- #63
@NookShneer @Hojack @dogfishlake thanks for the advice! I just spoke to my brother in law. He runs a truck company. He'll bring his diesel powered, hot water, high pressure washer this Sunday for the Easter lunch with the entire family... Which means I'll be missing two hours of the dinner.
The night before the wash I'll let the grease soak in diesel. If that won't get it all off, I'll have to get started with a toothbrush and a scraper.
The night before the wash I'll let the grease soak in diesel. If that won't get it all off, I'll have to get started with a toothbrush and a scraper.
- Thread starter
- #64
So... Engine, transmission and transfer case is off. Frame and engine is soaking in diesel overnight. Tomorrow is washing day. I'll carry the engine out using the tractor and wash it along with the frame.
I took the intake and exhaust manifold off in order to make cleaning easier. How concerned should I be with the access to the cylinders now? Should I completely secure them with tape or, should I not care and let the water evaporate? My only concern is rust
I took the intake and exhaust manifold off in order to make cleaning easier. How concerned should I be with the access to the cylinders now? Should I completely secure them with tape or, should I not care and let the water evaporate? My only concern is rust
I think you should plug them up to keep water out. I have used cotton rags stuffed in the ports with a screwdriver until is is really tight. Then use pliers to pull them out when you are done. The cotton will hold the water and if there is enough rag stuffed in there, will stay dry a little ways in.
- Thread starter
- #66
I clogged the intake and exhaust with some rags as suggested and cleaned it all. It sure looks clean now!
Tuesday I'll call the company for a quote on sandblasting and galvanizing. Before I drop it off for sandblasting, I'll deattach the axles from the frame.
Tuesday I'll call the company for a quote on sandblasting and galvanizing. Before I drop it off for sandblasting, I'll deattach the axles from the frame.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
This just keeps getting better, I’m running outta 
here...
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
By far the better option to a holiday family gathering in my opinion! That would be way more fun!
- Thread starter
- #69
So I am awaiting a quote from a couple of different places now. I asked them for a quote on sandblasting, galvanizing and painting the frame.
What about the axles?? Does it make sense to galvanize them? I'm thinking that it's going to make it tricky to open it up later on, without cutting it. And that would be stupid. Also it doesn't look like it was ever galvanized before.
Is there anything else that I should have them do while I'm at it? Other car parts or operations??
What about the axles?? Does it make sense to galvanize them? I'm thinking that it's going to make it tricky to open it up later on, without cutting it. And that would be stupid. Also it doesn't look like it was ever galvanized before.
Is there anything else that I should have them do while I'm at it? Other car parts or operations??
g-man
SILVER Star
What about inner C channels in the rear of the axle? You could replace them while its apart. Like this: installing c channels
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
This has been discussed... I’m sure I’ve read folks who’ve gone back and forth on it. Where does the truck primarily reside? How diligent will you be as the owner and primary upkeeper? Galvanising can affect any future changes or mods?
I’d ask those who have been at this much longer and in various parts of the country where rust is a big issue.... @FJACS, @Cruiserdrew, @sved, @cruisedeisel, @Spike Strip, @OSS ... those are just a few I can think of who might have decent opinions on that step while the frame is bare.
- Thread starter
- #73
@NeverGiveUpYota I reside in Denmark as well with the truck. Climate is cold during winter where we salt the roads, and hot during summer. A rust-bomb environment!
If the frame was galvanized once before, will the sandblasting then tear the old layer off or what will happen/should I do/not do??
If the frame was galvanized once before, will the sandblasting then tear the old layer off or what will happen/should I do/not do??
I assume we're talking about hot dip galvanizing. The type you see on light poles or big power line poles - all crystal looking. Yeah that is very thick and no good for an axle. Electro galvanizing is thin at .001" or .025mm. I don't know of anyone electroplating axles but maybe they do.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I’m clueless but others will know better.
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
Just keep squirting used oil/atf/diesel in the frame. Not pretty but it slows the rust down ten fold. I am a cheap azz. But I like to call it being "thrifty".
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
I’m so glad we don’t salt roads in Oregon
If you can get the frame galvanized for a reasonable cost that would be an excellent move. The rear plates could be removed to do a nicer job. Axles would not be a good thing to do. You could do a few small parts if you wanted like spring plates. Sway bar brackets, gas tank straps, and larger items like inner fenders, radiator support, etc. You don't have to do these, really depends on cost. The frame would be really good though.
I went with flame spraying galvanising on all frame parts and the axle housings when I teared down my Hj60 17 years ago. Then some good industrial ground paint and finish. Today not a spec of rust on the frame or axles. Even did the lower side of the body, like rockers and rear quarters.Apart from the normal paint chips ,no real damage until now.
