The right Lift for 37s? (1 Viewer)

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Are you serious?
Yes. Lifts don’t help you fit tires. I rubbed with a 4” lift the same amount as I do now with a 2” lift. Where I sit at ride height within that 11” travel shock is the only thing that’s changed.
 
Yes. Lifts don’t help you fit tires. I rubbed with a 4” lift the same amount as I do now with a 2” lift. Where I sit at ride height within that 11” travel shock is the only thing that’s changed.
Did you upgrade the control arms with your 4" lift? If not, you will definitely be rubbing..
 
Did you upgrade the control arms with your 4" lift? If not, you will definitely be rubbing..
Im running the eimkieth radius arm bracket which moves the axle forward. It was also at the top of the fender, not near the firewall… and with 35s. So idk how people fit 37s without trimming or extended bump stops.
 
Im running the eimkieth radius arm bracket which moves the axle forward. It was also at the top of the fender, not near the firewall… and with 35s. So idk how people fit 37s without trimming or extended bump stops.
Your wheel specs must suck or something. Especially if 35s rubbed.
 
Im running the eimkieth radius arm bracket which moves the axle forward. It was also at the top of the fender, not near the firewall… and with 35s. So idk how people fit 37s without trimming or extended bump stops.
People on MUD fits 37s on a 2.5" lift and it wont rub if you drive on mall parking lot...just saying.
 
Your wheel specs must suck or something. Especially if 35s rubbed.
They’re the stock wheels

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Yes. Lifts don’t help you fit tires. I rubbed with a 4” lift the same amount as I do now with a 2” lift. Where I sit at ride height within that 11” travel shock is the only thing that’s changed.
Do you mean to tell me that I and millions of others have been misled and totally confused? Longer shocks and multi springs will effectively increase wheel travel while also moving that travel zone further from the wheel well. I’m in that club and spent many hours cycling my shocks with no springs installed taking measurements for precise bump stop length.
 
I never had any complaints with stock wheels, 315s, and no bumpstops. What are you and Mr Fujiwara looking at under there?
Were taking a peep at the bump stops
I never had any complaints with stock wheels, 315s, and no bumpstops. What are you and Mr Fujiwara looking at under there?
we’re looking at the bump stop😂
 
Do you mean to tell me that I and millions of others have been misled and totally confused? Longer shocks and multi springs will effectively increase wheel travel while also moving that travel zone further from the wheel well. I’m in that club and spent many hours cycling my shocks with no springs installed taking measurements for precise bump stop length.
I’m staying that if you were running the same 4” dobinsons shocks that I was. You had 3” of down travel and 7” of up travel until you touch the factory bump stops. I found that if the 80 is flexed all the way out, the radius arm hits both sides of the axle side bracket. Those are 11” travel shocks, if you add over an inch of bump stops to fit 37s without rubbing, you have now less travel than a stock 80.

And you can have shocks and springs that move the travel zone away from the fenders. But you are still bound within two hard constraints, the factory bump stop and where the suspension binds. Adding a lift just moves the ride height away from the one constraint and closer to another.
 
I’m staying that if you were running the same 4” dobinsons shocks that I was. You had 3” of down travel and 7” of up travel until you touch the factory bump stops. I found that if the 80 is flexed all the way out, the radius arm hits both sides of the axle side bracket. Those are 11” travel shocks, if you add over an inch of bump stops to fit 37s without rubbing, you have now less travel than a stock 80.

And you can have shocks and springs that move the travel zone away from the fenders. But you are still bound within two hard constraints, the factory bump stop and where the suspension binds. Adding a lift just moves the ride height away from the one constraint and closer to another.
I don't think a stock 80 had 11' travel shocks. In stock form a 80 has about 2" of up travel add a 4" lift you should have about 6" of up travel if your tires are not hitting. on top of that most spring are to stiff to allow full up travel.
 
I don't think a stock 80 had 11' travel shocks. In stock form a 80 has about 2" of up travel add a 4" lift you should have about 6" of up travel if your tires are not hitting. on top of that most spring are to stiff to allow full up travel.
If I’m remembering right they have 10” of travel stock. I might have misspoken, thanks for the correction. And I rubbed with the 2.5” vts that gave me 4” of lift. I rub more often now with the tapered tour flex springs
 
I’m staying that if you were running the same 4” dobinsons shocks that I was. You had 3” of down travel and 7” of up travel until you touch the factory bump stops. I found that if the 80 is flexed all the way out, the radius arm hits both sides of the axle side bracket. Those are 11” travel shocks, if you add over an inch of bump stops to fit 37s without rubbing, you have now less travel than a stock 80.

And you can have shocks and springs that move the travel zone away from the fenders. But you are still bound within two hard constraints, the factory bump stop and where the suspension binds. Adding a lift just moves the ride height away from the one constraint and closer to another.
Longer shocks, multi rate springs and narrower Delta arms. With 4.5” - 5” of front lift running dobinson 3.5” tapered springs Plus a 1” spacer and 12” shocks for a six inch lift I enjoy a full 10” of travel evenly spit up and down with a 37” tire. “I like it”.
 

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