Bludozer
SILVER Star
Mine was replaced as preventative right around the ~200k mark. Probably unnecessary, who knows how long it would have gone.
The reality of the Landcruiser Head Gasket Issue (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter The Raven
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I have seen them with 100k and 480k on OG head gasket.
Do it when it fails or as PM if you love your Cruiser. Use ARP head studs and OEM MLS head gasket. Check top of block for true and within spec, it is ok to mill heads and blocks even if Toyota says nope, they want your $$$$. Buy a new short block and new head while you can if you got the $$$$, I did and I love it!
We usually go deeper and do a full rebuild. The 1fzfe was designed for three rebuilds, #1 is hone and fresh rings, #2 is .05 over and #3 is .10. How many of you on the forum are at 250k with out a bottom end rebuild? HG goes every 250k or do it at that interval (valve steam seals toast by then) and we all got million mile engines, parts pending of course. Do it at a less mileage or interval and we got 500-750k engines. Pretty damn good if you ask me!
Yes it is a lot of cash at $20-40k for the full works on a 1fzfe rebuild but 250k miles per that expense or 20yrs. Seems reasonable to me. Or limp it along forever but I sure do enjoy the new 1fzfe myself, takes ya back to the 1990’s! The real smart die hard Cruiser heads have all the parts on the shelf in the garage for those three rebuilds because Toyota isn’t going to be selling .10 parts in 50yrs!
Cheers
Do it when it fails or as PM if you love your Cruiser. Use ARP head studs and OEM MLS head gasket. Check top of block for true and within spec, it is ok to mill heads and blocks even if Toyota says nope, they want your $$$$. Buy a new short block and new head while you can if you got the $$$$, I did and I love it!
We usually go deeper and do a full rebuild. The 1fzfe was designed for three rebuilds, #1 is hone and fresh rings, #2 is .05 over and #3 is .10. How many of you on the forum are at 250k with out a bottom end rebuild? HG goes every 250k or do it at that interval (valve steam seals toast by then) and we all got million mile engines, parts pending of course. Do it at a less mileage or interval and we got 500-750k engines. Pretty damn good if you ask me!
Yes it is a lot of cash at $20-40k for the full works on a 1fzfe rebuild but 250k miles per that expense or 20yrs. Seems reasonable to me. Or limp it along forever but I sure do enjoy the new 1fzfe myself, takes ya back to the 1990’s! The real smart die hard Cruiser heads have all the parts on the shelf in the garage for those three rebuilds because Toyota isn’t going to be selling .10 parts in 50yrs!
Cheers
Original owner of my first 80 series, a 1997. Went 287k with no HG issues, then the poor truck got killed by a 30 something gal, driving 60mph, running a very red stop light…….
My current 80 series is also a 1997, she has 312k, and I recently noticed a sweet smelling exhaust on startup. Scoped (used a Klein Tools boroscope) the cylinders and #6 was unfortunately clean (aluminum color) on the piston top, with a faint tinge of coolant color in the recesses. The other piston tops were nice and black.
Borrowed a radiator gas check tool (from O’Riley auto parts) and the blue fluid turned yellow, cinching that I do indeed have a tiny HG leak, specifically cylinder #6 to the nearby coolant passage. No coolant in the oil.
I’m feeling pretty good to get 312k, lots of hot, throttle wide open, mountainous driving the last 40k or so. Head studs creep over time, and that allows head passageway leakage. It’s just a matter of when, not if.
My current 80 series is also a 1997, she has 312k, and I recently noticed a sweet smelling exhaust on startup. Scoped (used a Klein Tools boroscope) the cylinders and #6 was unfortunately clean (aluminum color) on the piston top, with a faint tinge of coolant color in the recesses. The other piston tops were nice and black.
Borrowed a radiator gas check tool (from O’Riley auto parts) and the blue fluid turned yellow, cinching that I do indeed have a tiny HG leak, specifically cylinder #6 to the nearby coolant passage. No coolant in the oil.
I’m feeling pretty good to get 312k, lots of hot, throttle wide open, mountainous driving the last 40k or so. Head studs creep over time, and that allows head passageway leakage. It’s just a matter of when, not if.
312k in miles equates to around 480km for us in Aus & that is exactly when my HG went & No6 cyl to boot - Im the original owner as well
I knew it would go one day but it still was disappointing when it did. I redone it myself at home and has been fine since (5 years now) & going strong
Nothing lasts forever but I could not ever see myself changing my 80 as I have too many great memories with it , especially when the kids were young going bush and them getting all muddy & dirty and then falling asleep in the back on the way home.
Officially over 362,000 on the original HG. This doesn't count the switch from 275/70R16 to 255/85R16 tires...
aaaaand it’s blown at 238k milesLX-450 187K original HG......soooooo far....
I’m glad this is over, every trip I went on i was wondering if this would be the time..lol..but mine went slow with some gurgling in coolant reservoir and rough start ups..
whew?
MoJ
Moderator
The data around the failure rate will never be good enough to answer the question of if and when it should be replaced. The combination of unknown variables (like maintenance, driving conditions, etc.) combined with anecdotal input makes it impossible to predict. Best I can think is to preemptively replace it if a failure would leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere . If you never leave Mayberry then that affords a little more flexibility. Either way plan ahead and budget for it.
Why switch to studs? What's the advantage there, on this engine? Someone mentioned stud creep; is that a thing? Can you get the head off in the vehicle when using studs? And do you prefer 1FZ or Supra or Opel studs? Inquiring minds want to know. @SNLC
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Maybe cost?
I went OEM, not cheap even from Megazip. Never occurred to me to consider ease of install/removal; but, good point.
My engine was out so that wasn't a concern.
Assuming proper torque process is adhered to, the gasket itself shouldn't care stud vs bolt.
Not cost. The studs have a significantly higher clamping load.
60wag
SILVER Star
So you use a higher torque spec for the studs than stock bolts?
The head must be set on top of the block prior to stud installation. It’s no big deal. I used the 1fz stud kit and it has worked just fine with satisfactory thread engagement in the block. In my opinion, studs are simpler to torque down properly without making mistakes. Because the OEM washers are more robust and fit their recess perfectly, I reused them instead of the ARP washers.
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Around 320k now and original HG. Did leak down and compression last year and all looked good. I dont pull or drive very long or live in extreme temps.
@baldilocks said:The head must be set on top of the block prior to stud installation. It’s no big deal. I used the 1fz stud kit and it has worked just fine with satisfactory thread engagement in the block. In my opinion, studs are simpler to torque down properly without making mistakes. Because the OEM washers are more robust and fit their recess perfectly, I reused them instead of the ARP washers.
I say:
Sooo…if removing the head in-place, can you pull the studs first without any more hassle than pulling head bolts?
I say:
Sooo…if removing the head in-place, can you pull the studs first without any more hassle than pulling head bolts?
Yes. Theoretically studs should go through a second torquing process after the initial heat cycle, hence torque to yield bolts from the factory. I didn’t do a second torque sequence. I know of only one Mud member who has gone to the trouble of removing the cams to do a second torque on head studs and I’ve never read about a HG failure presumably due to not torquing studs a second time.
Well, if the studs don't thread out by finger you may have to double-nut them, which is a slight hassle. Ideally they just spin out.
IIRC, my studs had a hex wrench facility in the one end.
