Strip and paint the block. What better "while you're in there" situation is there?
Builds The Oddball 80 - Middle East GX Renovation (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter wngrog
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- #582
F that block you can barely see anything under all this 3FE garbage
You can't see a blown head gasket unless you remove the head or look at the tailpipe.
To be clear I was joking anyhow.
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- #584
I did not strip it but I did clean and paint the drivers side.
I eased the head on with my engine hoist and started slowly putting it back together.
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Another hour in. Trying to take this one slow. Seems to be going in right.
Weirdest thing. My pile of exhaust bolts was minus 4 M10 and 2 M12 bolts. I am thinking they were not in there because I don’t remember there being 7 million exhaust/intake bolts/nuts.
Weirdest thing. My pile of exhaust bolts was minus 4 M10 and 2 M12 bolts. I am thinking they were not in there because I don’t remember there being 7 million exhaust/intake bolts/nuts.
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- #586
Couple of questions.
This plug. Any idea what it goes to?
Also where these two ground wires were.
This plug. Any idea what it goes to?
Also where these two ground wires were.
On the 1fz those rings bolt to the fender liner and then I believe the corresponding connector on the engine harness goes to it. I'd imagine a similar scheme on that rig.
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- #588
Man. Got it all together and did not install the fuel rail right and fully seat these injectors. I have to pull the damn plenum off. I’m over it for the day. Sure did look good there for a minute
Oh well. Live and learn.
F a 3FE.
Oh well. Live and learn.
F a 3FE.
You're almost there, you'll get it together.
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- #590
So close. I kept tightening those 3 injector rail nuts thinking I had put enough on them but I’m now assuming they have to seat all the way into the plastic bushings to seal.
The grey plastic plug with the cap on it looks to me like it could be for an EGR temp sensor or something... The cap is likely OEM and may contain a resistor to keep from throwing a CEL since the truck is not equipped with the EGR temp sensor (or something similar, but you get the point). Some early 1FZ 80s have a similar setup IIRC.
The truck is trying to tell you that you aren't going deep enough while you're in there and is giving you additional chances to fix what you've missed. Powder coating manifolds comes to mind. Also, did you even get those head bolts electroplated? Time to address these things man 
Those nuts only take 9 ft-lb of torque. Can you smoothly rotate the injectors side-to-side? If not the injector is not seated properly.
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Well, it is pretty anyways. 
Cheers
Cheers
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- #595
Ok. Figured out the injector problem. The bottom of the injector has a clear cap and a hard rubber gasket that presses into the plastic cups on the fuel rail. All the r hard rubber gaskets were still in the cups. They slid off when I removed the old injectors.
Now I can’t get the cold start banjo on the rail to seal. All the brass o rings I have are too big and the used ones won’t seal.
Headed to the hardware store. Parts houses didn’t have.
Now I can’t get the cold start banjo on the rail to seal. All the brass o rings I have are too big and the used ones won’t seal.
Headed to the hardware store. Parts houses didn’t have.
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Aaaaaaand done. Boom. Running great. Got the timing set at 13* and really is running strong. Head gives it a little lope. Super happy.
I ended up with one vacuum tube total going from the fuel rail. Looks so much better under here now.
I ended up with one vacuum tube total going from the fuel rail. Looks so much better under here now.
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I lied. I grabbed that other vacuum Port off the top of the intake and put my dissy and charcoal cannister in that using a T
Anyone have any reasons why that’s not OK?
This is about as simple as I can make this 3FE. Lots cleaner than before.
RPMs pull nicely to redline and it seems to still make power above 3500 better with the bigger head. Now I have to get some miles on it.
Gonna change the oil to make sure I’ve got all the rebuild stuff out of it and I’ll DD it all next week and see what shakes loose
Still can’t find a home for these grounds though.
Anyone have any reasons why that’s not OK?
This is about as simple as I can make this 3FE. Lots cleaner than before.
RPMs pull nicely to redline and it seems to still make power above 3500 better with the bigger head. Now I have to get some miles on it.
Gonna change the oil to make sure I’ve got all the rebuild stuff out of it and I’ll DD it all next week and see what shakes loose
Still can’t find a home for these grounds though.
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- #598
I figured out one ground. Back of head to firewall. Still no home for the one with the plug. Oh well.
Had a small punch list to do today to make me happy to start driving it.
Added a ARB plug to the rear so I can take this guy camping soon.
Also added a Blue Sea 12v plug for
My new console fridge.
Changed the oil. Found Out the hard way the valve cover was not tight enough
Reinstalled the paint over powered heat shields and the front splash guard under the crank.
Little things.....
Had a small punch list to do today to make me happy to start driving it.
Added a ARB plug to the rear so I can take this guy camping soon.
Also added a Blue Sea 12v plug for
My new console fridge.
Changed the oil. Found Out the hard way the valve cover was not tight enough
Reinstalled the paint over powered heat shields and the front splash guard under the crank.
Little things.....
That radio looks like it might need some "help" at some point.
...sorry I just want to make sure you don't run out of ideas here.
...sorry I just want to make sure you don't run out of ideas here.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Needs FluidFilm™ dousing
