The Nomad 1994 80 Project Car
- Thread starter Vulkyn
- Start date
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I see you did pack the Birfield with what appears to be a moly grease. Is there a reason you did not fill the entire knuckle with the moly rather than the light colored grease? I have not seen wheel bearing grease in that light color before, (usually it is green or red).
As the axle rotates, the grey moly grease will be thrown out and will mix with the other grease you have in the knuckle and reduce the effectiveness of the moly. Over long distances, the Birf's will heat up and some may liquify. As it cools, it settles in the bottom, then mixes again as it starts up.
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- #66
This seems to be a common practise with mechanics and Landcruiser owners. Talked to 3 so far all confirmed thats what they did 3 to 4 years ago with no issues.
This is the grease used, i am more inclined to your logic though.
There are also lubricant compatibility charts that you can find online.
Check the type of each of those greases to make sure they are compatible.
Lithium grease is the most common, with polyurea being next for this type of application. These two types do not play well together. If they mix, you end up with a cottage cheese looking glob that separates and clumps and does not do well for lubrication. Make sure both types are the same.
Also there is melting point and drop point. The two greases need to be similar in these two categories or one will separate from the other, and liquify and lay in the bottom and drip out the seal when hot.
The moly additive is able to take the high pressure of where the balls contact the axle bell and cage inside the Birf. Wheel bearing grease is not designed for that same high pressure and will allow faster wear due to grease getting pushed out of the contact area when accelerating.
Wheel bearing grease is designed for wheel bearings where there is rolling contact and as the grease heats up and liquifies, it will run back in and around the rollers and races. This is why the drop point and melting point are important for the application.
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- #68
According to specs, i need a NLGI-2 Lithium grease for the bearings (The one I got is LGMT 3/1 which is NLGI-2 Lithium based) I checked some videos as well and its the same.
Its operating temperature is up to 120 Degrees, the color is the only part that seems off but as far as i can tell everything else is within spec.
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- #70
Took the car offroading with 2 Fortuners, we went off road quite a bit.
The first destination was a pharos market place long ago a bazaar for gold exhange.
Apparently this was a huge lake area and boats where used to reach this very thriving area.
The first destination was a pharos market place long ago a bazaar for gold exhange.
Apparently this was a huge lake area and boats where used to reach this very thriving area.
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- #71
2nd destination was a fossil museum, strangly enough that area was a rain forest long time ago.
You could actually see water levels on small hills from erroision made by water.
Even had whale bonest meaning before even the rain forest the sea had actually reached all the way out there.
You could actually see water levels on small hills from erroision made by water.
Even had whale bonest meaning before even the rain forest the sea had actually reached all the way out there.
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- #72
3rd was Pharouh and Romanian tombs, they discovered a fullt preserved 3000 year old mummy last year with lots of papyrus scrolls which was all sent for translation need to find out what it said !
Apparently the oldest ever recorded paved road is there can't find the pic i took !!
Apparently the oldest ever recorded paved road is there can't find the pic i took !!
- Thread starter
- #74
So all in all, rocky was great after the diff rebuild. I felt the car is underpowered a bit and fuel consumption was a LOT.
1 litre did around 4.2 KM (trip was 300 km used around 75% of the tank.
The radiator was boiling when i arrived, heat gun check and temp guage where good seems i have a bad radiator cap.
The car also had some strange shifting patterns, will need to adjust that with mechanic.
Braking was good but pedal on occassion felt off having to push much further then normal , it was not always so will need to check air ingress in break system.
1 litre did around 4.2 KM (trip was 300 km used around 75% of the tank.
The radiator was boiling when i arrived, heat gun check and temp guage where good seems i have a bad radiator cap.
The car also had some strange shifting patterns, will need to adjust that with mechanic.
Braking was good but pedal on occassion felt off having to push much further then normal , it was not always so will need to check air ingress in break system.
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- Thread starter
- #75
I felt the brakes pedal not holding (i.e varies in both height and resistance of brake pedal) so I call the mechanic for repair.
The day i was scheduled to meet him there was almost no breaking power when i was taking the car from the garage. So much so i had to used gearbox to stop the car at very low speed even.
After cranking the pedal the brakes started holding, tested it a bit and it was ok. Drove very slowly to another nearby mechanic and he had a look.
The master cylinder has to much internal wear deforming its cylindrical shape, the rubber "stoppers" that pump oil seem to have worn down too much meaning its letting oil flow outside where it is intended to brake lines.
One of brake lines was replaced previously by a short one causing threads wearing out and leaking from the movement of the wheels.
Another sign of abuse is the broken brake disk a sign of excessive use with no break pads.
Brake line changed, master rubber stopers swamped as a temporary fix so i can drive it to Toyota mechanic and replace with original parts.
I will also replace Servo, master, brake line, brake discs, brake calipers and ball bearings.
Honestly this rig was extremally neglected by previous owner and its pissing me off.
The day i was scheduled to meet him there was almost no breaking power when i was taking the car from the garage. So much so i had to used gearbox to stop the car at very low speed even.
After cranking the pedal the brakes started holding, tested it a bit and it was ok. Drove very slowly to another nearby mechanic and he had a look.
The master cylinder has to much internal wear deforming its cylindrical shape, the rubber "stoppers" that pump oil seem to have worn down too much meaning its letting oil flow outside where it is intended to brake lines.
One of brake lines was replaced previously by a short one causing threads wearing out and leaking from the movement of the wheels.
Another sign of abuse is the broken brake disk a sign of excessive use with no break pads.
Brake line changed, master rubber stopers swamped as a temporary fix so i can drive it to Toyota mechanic and replace with original parts.
I will also replace Servo, master, brake line, brake discs, brake calipers and ball bearings.
Honestly this rig was extremally neglected by previous owner and its pissing me off.
It is especially annoying when the previous owners didn't even fix cheap items that are very important. However when you get it done, you should be good for several years.
- Thread starter
- #77
Yah that's the idea of taking everything bit by bit, but honestly this is a whole new level of neglect.
On the bright side of things, these cars are truly amazing .... with all this and they function extremally well still super reliable cars ....
That’s your/was brake proportioning valve.
It automatically adjusts brake bias front to rear based on load in the vehicle.
As weight in the rear increases and the vehicle squats an arm attached to the axle and the valve moves to adjust brake pressure to compensate for the weight to ensure even braking front to rear based on weight.
A lot of people eliminate them when they go bad. However, brake effectiveness may be compromised. An adjustable, manually, valve can be installed and through trial and error you adjust based on braking tests. You DO NOT want the rear brakes locking up, if they do there is the chance you will loose control as the rear of the vehicle will swing out!
