Builds "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta (5 Viewers)

[Tank5]

I painted the seems with POR15, and need to clean the welds on the bottom edge and it will be ready for paint.

The roof panel is it pretty good shape, I did have to repair some holes drilled through by a PO but didn’t take any pictures of that. The roof already suffers from the oil can effect, so I started building a support to run through the middle of the roof. I am still fitting it in the picture but it seems like it should work. The plan is to make it removable so the roof can be easily serviced if needed.

 

[Tank5]

The roof support is sorted out. No more roof flex. Shaping the hat channel takes some time but I it turned out well enough. Should anyone wish to duplicate this roof support the hat channel is the same stuff I used to rebuild the tub floor and the product info and supplier is documented there.

 

[mccaleb77]

The roof support is sorted out. No more roof flex. Shaping the hat channel takes some time but I it turned out well enough. Should anyone wish to duplicate this roof support the hat channel is the same stuff I used to rebuild the tub floor and the product info and supplier is documented there.

Turned out great. I'll have to do this to my 45 roof as I have the same issue. Great work.

 

[Tank5]

I took a day off work to run some errands and get the upper cab back and roof painted.

I coated it with POR15 first, then red etching primer and last paint.

 

[Tank5]

I installed the doors with SMG hing pins. I have new weather stripping, felt and window gaskets to rebuild them with hopefully soon.

I got the top on but I have to make some adjustments as it does not fit right. I ordered all new roof and glass weather strip and gaskets mostly from City Racer. The front roof seal that goes over the windshield is giving me trouble. I cannot get it to compress enough for the roof latches to latch. I checked and I bought the correct part my model year. I got tired of wrestling with it tonight and will take a fresh look at it tomorrow.

Sorry for the crappy picture but it looks good with the top on.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Not sure which roof seal you are trying. I used this one on 3 different 45's with success.

Front Roof Weatherstrip for '66 to '84 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45

Weatherstripping that fits on top of the windshield to seal against the hardtop. Suits '66 onward Land Cruiser FJ40 and FJ45.High quality reproduction; equivalent to OEM part # 63161-60011.

www.cityracerllc.com

The other style was too awkward. I had both city racer seals to try on the first roof panel. Ended up using this one on each. Minor cut was made to clear the little hoop to hold the windshield to the hood latch but otherwise fit great.

 

[Tank5]

Not sure which roof seal you are trying. I used this one on 3 different 45's with success.

Front Roof Weatherstrip for '66 to '84 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45

Weatherstripping that fits on top of the windshield to seal against the hardtop. Suits '66 onward Land Cruiser FJ40 and FJ45.High quality reproduction; equivalent to OEM part # 63161-60011.

www.cityracerllc.com

The other style was too awkward. I had both city racer seals to try on the first roof panel. Ended up using this one on each. Minor cut was made to clear the little hoop to hold the windshield to the hood latch but otherwise fit great.

I am using the other style, 63161-60010. It says it is supposed to fit the 60-65 models. The gasket is very thick, and if I can make it work I bet it will do a great job closing that gap. Since I already cut it to fit I will wrestle with it for another night before I quit on it. Good to know the 60011 version will work though in the event I have to order it.

Edit: I just ordered the 60011 version, it is pretty cheap and wanted to get it coming, so I have it sooner if needed.

 

[Fishbulb]

Wow, I just went through this whole thread. EPIC!

 

[Tank5]

The new gasket 60011 version arrived yesterday and I got it installed. It worked perfect as best I can tell. The top is now latched and bolted down.

I rebuilt one of the doors and started the second. I am waiting on another vent window gasket to arrive to finish the other. I ordered comer glass gaskets that should be here this week, so I can install the glass in the upper cab.

I spent the weekend learning how to bend tube on a borrowed bender. I bent what I needed and just need to fit it and weld it up.

 

[eljefe83]

AWESOME! Glad to see all the progress!

 

[Tank5]

Painted and added the roof support. I put some 1/8 adhesive closed foam strip on the back side of it to keep it quiet and prevent metal on metal contract. It is a tight fit. Should keep the roof from flexing.

 

[Tank5]

Some may recall in an earlier conversation in this thread discussing roll over protection. I have been back and forth with what to do ever since discussing it not sure if I wanted a cage or a roll bar in the bed. There are some well built cages out there but ultimately I didn’t want one in the cab at least for now. I didn’t like the idea of a exocage. I needed something and this is what I settled on.

I built four mounting plates that straddle the ribs in the bed (didn’t want to crush them). The feet at the front of the bed straddle the main crossmember under the bed that bolts through the body mounts to the frame. The rear mounts fit perfectly between the rear crossmember rear sill support and ties them all together through a mounting plate underneath. I am using 1/2 bolts through 3/16 plate on the underside of the bed front and back to secure it. The bed itself is bolted down with 10 body mounds (6 more than the cab). I don’t intend to tie the roll bar it into the frame for now.

The entire roll bar and bed rails are made of 1.75 DOM. I have to pull it out and finish some of the welds but I am pretty happy with what I came up with. Part of the reason for this design is to add some rigging points to each corner leg to allow me to secure stuff in the bed. I am hoping to eventually make some clamp on cross bars that attach to the horizontal rails to create a platform for adding a roof top tent or basket for gear or what ever.

I am looking at adding 6” L-track to each leg for a versatile mounting system. Is there any other modular or adjustable cargo systems that mount nicely to roll bars anyone would suggest?

Edit: I found and ordered some clamp on points I am going to try instead of the L-track system. Since the new mounts clamp on I can move them where ever I want giving me more versatility.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Depending on what you expect this roll bar to do….In the unfortunate (and hope never happens) roll. Anchor points can rip out of the bed from the underside. When i did my son’s FST rollbar, I sandwiched 1/2” plate between bed metal top and bottom. Provides more surface area to spread the load in crush or tug situations. Best option is to tie it to frame which i am still thinking about. Looks like your looking at lighter duty. Thought i would share.

 

[Tank5]

Depending on what you expect this roll bar to do….In the unfortunate (and hope never happens) roll. Anchor points can rip out of the bed from the underside. When i did my son’s FST rollbar, I sandwiched 1/2” plate between bed metal top and bottom. Provides more surface area to spread the load in crush or tug situations. Best option is to tie it to frame which i am still thinking about. Looks like your looking at lighter duty. Thought i would share.

I agree, my write up may not have been clear but the feet bolt through 6x6 3/16 inch plates on the underside of the bed. If I get into a wreck with this “Spam Can” that rips those plates through the bed floor I don’t expect I will fair very well in such a crash anyway.

I didn’t build this to be a crawler or do I intend to push it to find it’s limits. My goal was to overbuild it for my intended use, so I can drive it to the trail, have fun and drive it home. If I roll it on the trail I expect this should hold up. The truck will be wrecked but I won’t be squished. If I drive off a cliff I don’t expect a proper cage would save me in that scenario either.

This is not supposed to be a hard core wheeler which is why I didn’t put this build in the hardcore section. This just my idea of fun trail rig. Mild wheeling if that is a term is probably what I a want to do.

I don’t know that I ever shared my intended use for this, so your thoughts are valid.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Its a beaut!!!

 

[Mike Shull]

Ditto! I can’t wait to see this truck on the trail!!

 

[whitey45]

Fwiw, my buddy rolled his 40 getting onto a freeway with a 6 point cage we intalled in highschool 30 years ago!! Bolted to the tub with small washers!!! It tweaked a little but held steady and he walked away without a scratch!!

 

[Tank5]

Well my original thought was to mount a spare to horizontal tube at the front of the bed. I tossed a tire up in that spot and it pretty much blocks the view out the rear window.

I think I will have to go with plan B and look at mounting it flat on top of the drawer system.

 

[SipLife]

Well my original thought was to mount a spare to horizontal tube at the front of the bed. I tossed a tire up in that spot and it pretty much blocks the view out the rear window.

I think I will have to go with plan B and look at mounting it flat on top of the drawer system.

View attachment 3353912

What about mounting it at a slight angle like some Baja trucks do? Takes up slightly less bed space than mounting completely horizontal and keeps the rear window clear. Could also be done on top of drawers.

 

[Tank5]

What about mounting it at a slight angle like some Baja trucks do? Takes up slightly less bed space than mounting completely horizontal and keeps the rear window clear. Could also be done on top of drawers.

View attachment 3353929

The drawer system is 11 inches tall, mounting on top of it at an angle would still block most of the view. Not sure will work but I will experiment after the drawer is in the bed.