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Great shots and love the OG split wheels with the lift...

Thanks greg. Feels better. I've been wanting to get rid of those aluminum wheels that look like they belong on a Camaro since I bought the thing.
 
...Richen the idle mixture screw by 1/2-1 turn and idle quality (& RPM) will improve, and the idle speed can be reduced to 6-700.

Did this. Idles great. Big improvement. Thanks Jim!
 
It's time. Focused now on getting it trail worthy. Spent all my spare time last week on knuckle service and installing a lift kit from Kurt. Sitting on 33/10.5 - 15 Km2s and an OME Heavies, it looks like a Land Cruiser now instead of station wagon. View attachment 953340

Got a chance to put it to the test today:
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Hey atomicshawn-
where did you find the wheels in these shots?

THanks,
ibis
 
I'm not Shawn, but those are factory grey steelies from a 1975-1980 FJ40 or FJ55. There's still plenty of used ones stacked up in garages, or they can be purchased new from the toyo dealer (along w/ the hubcaps), but are now only available in black.
 
I really want to go with this look but I am not sure I want to use spacers. Did you have to install longer wheel studs?

x2 on the idle mixture - Jim gave me the same advice after getting my carb back from him, and it smoothed the idle out nicely.
 
Just use the solid axle minitruck or land cruiser wheels.

Heck, it's rare to find base steel wheels from IFS trucks. By then they were heading upmarket and they all have alloys or chrome wagons.
 
I'll probably just get a set of the factory land cruiser wheels from Beno. He has them at a good price. I do think a small spacer will be needed in the front to clear the calipers. The backspacing on them is slightly less than the factory 60 wheels.
 
I wonder what would be easier to procure; used steelies off an IFS pickup, or fj40/mini truck. Honestly, if I had a set of each, and I could chose either, I would probably choose the IFS wheels (w/obligatory spacers). The reason why is... and I'm probably going to get crucified for this but... I think the IFS wheels look better. There. I said it. There's just something about the flatter profile that is more aesthetically pleasing to me.

With the IFS wheel you do have to use spacers, and I know there is an argument about integrity, and there is obviously more stuff to break, but I've worked mine pretty good in the rocks and they seem to be holding up fine (knock on wood). And I've tried to get my head around the leverage argument, that the spacer offset creates addition pressure on bearings and suspension. But it seems to me if the wheel design just puts the tire back in the same position then it cancels that pressure out? But I don't know. I'm not a physicist.

If you want to go this route I think another option is the T-100 which I believe some years/models came with this type of steel wheel.

And to answer the question above, I didn't need extra long lugs.

More glam shots of wheels in the rocks:

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I am going with factory FJ40 steelies (the new ones come only in black now) and the same tires you have. I think all the steelies look great. The IFS wheels don't have the hub cap clips so it's a cleaner look. I am toying with the idea of using hub caps (I probably won't) and the clips don't bother me.
 
I've had a bunch of surplus jerry can holders in storage for a while. I decided to try them out and bolted them down. I'm pleased with how it turned out. One water, one fuel:

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After battling sloppy worn out terminals since I've owned this thing, new military terminals feel good. And a new Interstate AGM to go with...

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Nice idea about the can placement. I like that the mounts dont take up too much space when not in use.

Yeah the cans worked out well. I do a lot of outdoor stuff for work. I use the water jug all the time, putting out campfires, filing water bottles at the trailhead... I thought the cans would be in the way more. I can still fit my mountain bike in the back without dropping the seat or moving the cans. The 60 has amazing cargo room!
 
Smoked clutch and t-bearing sounding like it’s going to explode. Consequences of teaching several kids how to drive stick over the last few years (another reason the thread title is fitting).

Grindy 1st-2nd shift, and input bearing noise was there when I bought it, but getting worse over time. I planned to rebuild the 4-speed, but after pricing it all out ($800+ alone for parts to fix 1st-2nd grind) H55F seemed the better move.
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