Not all. My hzj105 uses the same wheel nuts, but different torque for my alloys, and steel wheels.
The Legend of Spacegirl. One man tries to please his wife and his cruiser. (1 Viewer)
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Not all. My hzj105 uses the same wheel nuts, but different torque for my alloys, and steel wheels.
HZJ105, didn’t know that...
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- #43
I still have some clean up to do, but the paint looks amazing! Of course, I see every little blemish, but even then they disappear at a few feet!
I had to revisit my wiring, so I moved as much as I could to the driver side fender. Overall, I’m really happy with how it’s isolated and out of the way!
I had to revisit my wiring, so I moved as much as I could to the driver side fender. Overall, I’m really happy with how it’s isolated and out of the way!
With the relays hidden like that what do you do when you have to troubleshoot or replace a relay?
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- #45
These three relays are only for the front light bar and one pair of pod lights. So if a relay fails, it’s not going to require immediate attention. But the answer to your question is pull the fender. Which requires the grill, headlight, corner light all to get pulled. The cowling would also have to be loosened to get to THAT bolt as well.
How are the hood vents holding up? Any water damage or noticeable issues from the vents?
I had started with a open/open 93. As I was getting into, I kept finding little things that really put me off from restoring it. When this 96 came up for sale, I couldn’t have bought the lockers, armor, roof rack, another set of 35’s, and the other odds and ends for the same money. I had already bought a set of arb air lockers, and sold them for close to a 1/4 what the whole rig ran. It’s supposed to have had an engine refresh around 280k and it runs like a top. Have a few maintenance items to check off, but I don’t think I’m going to have to flush it any time soon
It’s been on my mind. I need to order up a fresh dizzy o ring and inspect my spark plug boots. I’m also going to go through the engine bay and hit up all the electrical connections with dielectric grease, and relocate my front diff breather and all my after market wiring to the driver side wheel well while I’ve got the fender off.
The side vents should be fine. Nothing much to hit on the passenger side. On the driver side it’s over the charcoal canister and ABS booster. It may drip on my fuse box, and if it does, I’ll be looking at some kind of deflector/gutter to divert it elsewhere. I image the starters going to see more water, but my starter cables are fresh. I’ll defiantly post my opinion after some weather testing.
- Thread starter
- #47
they are doing great! I need to rework some of my aftermarket wiring/breakers as they are seeing a lot more water than even “Amazon marine” quality breakers are designed for. I’m hoping blue sea breakers will hold up better.
My biggest complaint is where I put the vents, and howI cut through bracing. I’m considering buying a used hood and cutting it differently, with the vents a couple of inches forward to avoid that.
- Thread starter
- #48
Long time, no updates! Last year I bought a fair weather toy and splitting my car budget and time has left the LC a tad bit neglected. So, to update the thread, here’s a list of new work that’s been completed.
1st off, using an AGM battery, with stock charging doesn’t work. I noticed my year old Duracell 31m wasn’t holding enough charge to run my flashing yellows for an hour without the engine on and was dropping to 11 volts far quicker than it should. Did some research and AGM’s need a higher charging voltage than the trucks going to do on its own. I didn’t want to make a snap decision on a charge controller since solar is on my long term map, so I picked up a normal 31m and popped it in. During the course of that previously mentioned research, I also swapped back to stock terminal placement for safety in the event of a crash.
place mark for updated photo.
I also knocked out some maintenance items. New radiator hoses throughout. Fresh set of spark plug wires (oem) upgraded to a 130 amp alternater (new oem 1st gen Tundra) using photomans bracket. It’s a knuckle buster for large hands. I do recommend upgrading the wire to the battery up to 2 gauge and adding a 170a fuse. While stock wiring can handle moderate loads, my two year old played around and left the lights on in my truck. Had to jump it and the fusible link started smoking. So, upgrade that too! Here’s photomans link.
forum.ih8mud.com
Next up on the maintenance list is to replace the tired throttle cable and the sensor associated as I’m period getting a po510 code and scan gauge is only reading a range between 12-63 between idle and floored. Obviously, something isn’t right, and likely a pair of something’s.
Lastly, something with pictures!
I couldn’t stand having only one blown speaker. So, I picked up four Polk 6 1/2 speakers to fix that. Sadly, they are large, and all the speaker spacers just didn’t fit the way I wanted. So I grabbed the router and worked on making my own. 6 1/4 outer diameter with s 1/4 round over bit on the outside edge fit the stock location perfectly. I screwed in the MDF speaker into the door, reinstalled the door card and installed the speaker through the door card In the front doors.
the spacer, got a shade close to the edge but no effect on performance.
installed in the door
plenty of space without rattling
Now the rear doors were another story entirely. The stock 4” speakers were in a mount to push them away from the door. The hole inside the door is too small to fit the magnet, even with precise alignment. So, that was expanded. I initially attempted a hole saw. But without a method to keep it centered, the grinder, and finally the dremel was called into action. I cut along the factory lines, sanded the edges and hit with primer.
afterward, the door card was put back on, then I used the metra 82-4400 spacer. The offset larger holes where bolted through the door card, into the sheet metal, then the speaker was screwed to the spacer. I can take pictures of the back doors if anyone needs them. Speakers were wired with the factory plugs pulled off the previous set. All in all, massive improvement, no interference with door operation, nor with the windows.
next update should be sooner. Last child is due in a few weeks, and with baby leave coming, I’m going to be turning some wrenches.
Can we all appreciate a little Wits end 1FZ-FTE action......
1st off, using an AGM battery, with stock charging doesn’t work. I noticed my year old Duracell 31m wasn’t holding enough charge to run my flashing yellows for an hour without the engine on and was dropping to 11 volts far quicker than it should. Did some research and AGM’s need a higher charging voltage than the trucks going to do on its own. I didn’t want to make a snap decision on a charge controller since solar is on my long term map, so I picked up a normal 31m and popped it in. During the course of that previously mentioned research, I also swapped back to stock terminal placement for safety in the event of a crash.
place mark for updated photo.
I also knocked out some maintenance items. New radiator hoses throughout. Fresh set of spark plug wires (oem) upgraded to a 130 amp alternater (new oem 1st gen Tundra) using photomans bracket. It’s a knuckle buster for large hands. I do recommend upgrading the wire to the battery up to 2 gauge and adding a 170a fuse. While stock wiring can handle moderate loads, my two year old played around and left the lights on in my truck. Had to jump it and the fusible link started smoking. So, upgrade that too! Here’s photomans link.
Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp
In the hopes of eliminating any more confusion (mine) on this alternator conversion I will try to recap the story here. In hindsight I wish I had done this before when Brian (bjowett) turned the project over to me. Brian (bjowett) discovered the larger case 130/150 amp alternators would fit in...
forum.ih8mud.com
Next up on the maintenance list is to replace the tired throttle cable and the sensor associated as I’m period getting a po510 code and scan gauge is only reading a range between 12-63 between idle and floored. Obviously, something isn’t right, and likely a pair of something’s.
Lastly, something with pictures!
I couldn’t stand having only one blown speaker. So, I picked up four Polk 6 1/2 speakers to fix that. Sadly, they are large, and all the speaker spacers just didn’t fit the way I wanted. So I grabbed the router and worked on making my own. 6 1/4 outer diameter with s 1/4 round over bit on the outside edge fit the stock location perfectly. I screwed in the MDF speaker into the door, reinstalled the door card and installed the speaker through the door card In the front doors.
the spacer, got a shade close to the edge but no effect on performance.
installed in the door
plenty of space without rattling
Now the rear doors were another story entirely. The stock 4” speakers were in a mount to push them away from the door. The hole inside the door is too small to fit the magnet, even with precise alignment. So, that was expanded. I initially attempted a hole saw. But without a method to keep it centered, the grinder, and finally the dremel was called into action. I cut along the factory lines, sanded the edges and hit with primer.
afterward, the door card was put back on, then I used the metra 82-4400 spacer. The offset larger holes where bolted through the door card, into the sheet metal, then the speaker was screwed to the spacer. I can take pictures of the back doors if anyone needs them. Speakers were wired with the factory plugs pulled off the previous set. All in all, massive improvement, no interference with door operation, nor with the windows.
next update should be sooner. Last child is due in a few weeks, and with baby leave coming, I’m going to be turning some wrenches.
Can we all appreciate a little Wits end 1FZ-FTE action......
Do you have any more pics of the hood vents?
- Thread starter
- #50
Any particular pics you’re looking for?
As seems to be my way, it’s time for an annual update.
Wits end Turbo, installed and tested. LOVE IT! I had OTRAMM do the install, since they had already done one and am very happy with their service.
After letting the wife drive it the first two weeks after the install, I noticed a little wiggle. Inspection revealed three of the four tie ends were shot. Priced out OEM and upgraded Marlin Crawler and found the marginal increase for the Marlin Crawler set up was worth it, and would beef up the bars as well. What I did not know is the bars are shipped bare steel. The while I’m in their big hit, and I replaced the steering stabilizer with a new unit from OME. For those ordering these, it appears they paint them after the bushing is installed, so expect yellow pain to be cracking off the bushings. Sent the first one back for this and found the same issue on the second. Guess it’s how they are doing things. Went ahead and took care of some surface rust on the axle too.
Next item I tackled was a change to be drawer set up. My oldest kid took a dog when she moved out, and my wife made another kid. Two adults and a baby is the max capacity for the AluCab, so I needed to figure out a sleeping platform. Since it would be me sleeping down there, all the things I didn’t care about being uncomfortable with a center fridge set up, now we’re cared about. While I really enjoyed the center mount for ease of access, and how it separated my dogs, I needed to go with a more traditional setup. After speaking with Spacegirl, an updated fridge was authorized and we now have an ARB 63qt zero, single zone fridge. Since I had time, I wanted to update the materials used. The last one was exclusively 3/4” plywood. The new use uses extruded aluminum with a plywood top. The weight savings is about 30 lbs.
I decided on 32” depth from the tailgate this would allow for the fridge, two narrow drawers, and a storage area behind the seats for larger items. This holds camp chairs, or a playpen, or the bedding for sleeping in this out of the way storage option. It also can hold my hi lift jack when the truck is set up for around town use.
I have discovered, wrapping plywood with marine carpet makes things look way more professional and it feels really nice too!
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- #51
The space on the passenger side will be converted to hold a lithium house battery for the fridge. I’ve been looking for one that can discharge safely at a rate to feed the ARB twin compressor, and a charging controller to handle both batteries, but my personal life has impacted my time for research. As a result, all the wiring is run through my Wits End rear quarter panel mount. I’ve got a blue seas fuse box, and other goodies already in place there. The switches are Amazon mystery brand that were recycled off the last iteration.
The driver side cubby has a lift panel to access the bulk of storage, but also fits a pair of 1lbs propane bottles. I use the propane bottle with my camp stove, and one typically lasts us about 10 days at 2 meals a day. On the driver side, there’s a piano hinge at the back that barely clears the headliner, and rests on the folded down 2nd row.
The setup ended up being pretty comfortable. I got some bug nets for the back doors, and a rechargeable fan. Air flow was fine, and most nights I would cut it off around 3am as I was getting cold. Thankfully, it didn’t rain on us, overnight, during our trip. This will need to be addressed.
While I’m addressing things, I’m going to do some changes to the kitchen drawer, and need to line the drawer fronts better. The drawers were made the day before we left, and were rushed.
Overall, I’m very happy with the extruded aluminum. It’s light, no squeaks yet, easy to work with, and plenty strong for me. Im 265lbs for those thinking about the same.
The driver side cubby has a lift panel to access the bulk of storage, but also fits a pair of 1lbs propane bottles. I use the propane bottle with my camp stove, and one typically lasts us about 10 days at 2 meals a day. On the driver side, there’s a piano hinge at the back that barely clears the headliner, and rests on the folded down 2nd row.
The setup ended up being pretty comfortable. I got some bug nets for the back doors, and a rechargeable fan. Air flow was fine, and most nights I would cut it off around 3am as I was getting cold. Thankfully, it didn’t rain on us, overnight, during our trip. This will need to be addressed.
While I’m addressing things, I’m going to do some changes to the kitchen drawer, and need to line the drawer fronts better. The drawers were made the day before we left, and were rushed.
Overall, I’m very happy with the extruded aluminum. It’s light, no squeaks yet, easy to work with, and plenty strong for me. Im 265lbs for those thinking about the same.
- Thread starter
- #52
This post is all record keeping and no fun.
After the trip, I had more play in the front wheels than I like. When I went to check the bearings, I found the outer lock nut wasn’t even finger tight. I took it all apart and repacked the bearings after finding no signs of wear. I did find signs of wear on the brake pads. Then I found a seized caliper.
In my typical fashion, I replaced both front calipers, all new brake pads, and repacked the wheel bearings on both sides. Fresh brake fluid and she was good to go. I pulled the winch since I had an issue, and found the ground cable for the handheld controller was heavily corroded. I’ve replaced it, and set it up to share a ground with the winch itself. I’ve got synthetic winch line on order, and a set of Dobinsons MRA’s. While I’ve been a fan of Icon’s for a while now, I want a thicker shock to dampen this rig. My 2” slinky spec shocks are really pushing the limits of their size. The MRA’s supposedly have the largest diameter piston bore on the market at 66mm or 2.6” so I am expecting a substantial improvement.
After the trip, I had more play in the front wheels than I like. When I went to check the bearings, I found the outer lock nut wasn’t even finger tight. I took it all apart and repacked the bearings after finding no signs of wear. I did find signs of wear on the brake pads. Then I found a seized caliper.
In my typical fashion, I replaced both front calipers, all new brake pads, and repacked the wheel bearings on both sides. Fresh brake fluid and she was good to go. I pulled the winch since I had an issue, and found the ground cable for the handheld controller was heavily corroded. I’ve replaced it, and set it up to share a ground with the winch itself. I’ve got synthetic winch line on order, and a set of Dobinsons MRA’s. While I’ve been a fan of Icon’s for a while now, I want a thicker shock to dampen this rig. My 2” slinky spec shocks are really pushing the limits of their size. The MRA’s supposedly have the largest diameter piston bore on the market at 66mm or 2.6” so I am expecting a substantial improvement.
