Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter grinchy
- Start date
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- #22
to be fair, the 20 included mount and balance. I couldn't believe they didn't whip out a tpms computer to pull the codes either.
afterward i found out that the tundra sensors won't work anyway.
I don't mind using programmable sensors and one set pays for the computer.
what other ghetto bead break techniques are there?
afterward i found out that the tundra sensors won't work anyway.
I don't mind using programmable sensors and one set pays for the computer.
what other ghetto bead break techniques are there?
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- #24
that's way better than the rube Goldberg I had in mind with a strap and the stock bottle jack
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- #25
Made a static bubble balancer to check balance on my road CL set. They checked out, so on they went today.
Busted my 25 year old 'two ton' floor jack trying to lift the rear. Had to break out the Lexus special. It worked, and brought back lots of bad scissor jack memories from the 80s. Just one more spin. And another. And another.
The 275/65x18 Michelin LTX look better to my eye than the 20s .Ride better too. They're about an inch taller.
I didn't swap out the Tundra TPMS, going to run with a warning light while I continue to work on the M/Ts.
Added Trail Tailor front recovery points. They look nice.
Looked at the pads and rotors while I had the wheels off. Going to have to do everything. Barely any lining left on the front pads. Probably going to do front bushings and bearings too while I'm in there.
Busted my 25 year old 'two ton' floor jack trying to lift the rear. Had to break out the Lexus special. It worked, and brought back lots of bad scissor jack memories from the 80s. Just one more spin. And another. And another.
The 275/65x18 Michelin LTX look better to my eye than the 20s .Ride better too. They're about an inch taller.
I didn't swap out the Tundra TPMS, going to run with a warning light while I continue to work on the M/Ts.
Added Trail Tailor front recovery points. They look nice.
Looked at the pads and rotors while I had the wheels off. Going to have to do everything. Barely any lining left on the front pads. Probably going to do front bushings and bearings too while I'm in there.
- Thread starter
- #26
Put in the Hikari LED Hi, Low, and LED marker lights tonight. The high beams are a real tight fit into the housing. I fought with the driver side a long time before I remembered I had some Silicone grease from a plumbing project. Put some on the gasket, and some on the wing pegs and it went right in.
I think the LEDs are probably 3x as bright. This poor photo doesn't do it justice.
Peeking out in the dim are the new red recovery points.
I think the LEDs are probably 3x as bright. This poor photo doesn't do it justice.
Peeking out in the dim are the new red recovery points.
Glad to see the Hikari’s working well. I just bought mine and delivery will be soon.
Did low beams plug and play? And did you get version 1 or 2?
Did low beams plug and play? And did you get version 1 or 2?
The Hikaris are plug and play
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- #29
I used Cree Hi Philips Lo. They fit fine but both High beams were a bear to get turned. Some silicone grease did the trick. I'm sure there is a spring clip in the housing I didn't understand how to finagle.
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- #30
reminding myself what's up as I get easily confused - h11-low beam. hb3-high beam. H11 - fog. DRLs use high beam. Philips lumileds in low-beam (projector). Cree LED in high beam (reflector). Cree LED in Fog (reflector) (on order)
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- #31
My tire graveyard. See that - it's four rims waiting to be refinished! First dismount -> 1 hour. Last dismount -> 10 min.
4 rotors and 8 pads in house. Front wheel bearings due at some point next week, along with the one man bleeder.
4 rotors and 8 pads in house. Front wheel bearings due at some point next week, along with the one man bleeder.
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- #32
Did the rear brakes today. Apparently I’m a snail paced mechanic. Had plans to meet up,with @tbisaacs , but my daughter had a conflict.
Hammered on the rotor for a while, then remembered some rotors have help me out threaded holes. These rears did, and I had a random fitting bolt in my misc collection. Good times!
First one was 3 or 4 hours, second an hour. I built a floor jack, wrenched with my kids, and worked on fitting the max cheater bar I could into the wheel well. Needed it for 7 of 8 bolts.
I used generic rotors off Amazon. These https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F2XNYJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
all dolled up with slots and holes and black coating. Also got semi metallic pads and looking forward to being able to stop again.
Next weekend it’s the fronts, including new wheel bearings.
Hammered on the rotor for a while, then remembered some rotors have help me out threaded holes. These rears did, and I had a random fitting bolt in my misc collection. Good times!
First one was 3 or 4 hours, second an hour. I built a floor jack, wrenched with my kids, and worked on fitting the max cheater bar I could into the wheel well. Needed it for 7 of 8 bolts.
I used generic rotors off Amazon. These https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F2XNYJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
all dolled up with slots and holes and black coating. Also got semi metallic pads and looking forward to being able to stop again.
Next weekend it’s the fronts, including new wheel bearings.
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- #33
On the tire front, yesterday saw me actually use the rotozip I should never have bought 10 years ago. It can really spin a sanding disc. But in the end it was too fiddly and time consuming. I’ll have to pay to get them blasted. I did see a really cool wheel treatment over the weekend though so that is nice. I have ideas!
Those rotors looks great 
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- #35
I am fervently hoping the powder coat makes for easy future maintenance. I've never sprung for what i assume are cosmetic features (drilled and slotted) before. I am stoked to get an aggressive brake pad.
- Thread starter
- #36
Picked up four more matching rims on CL today. Got them for free and they’re in good shape. Excited as now I can mount the muds. I’ve given up refinishing the other 4.
Front wheel bearings and hubs in house, just need the dust caps and caliper bracket bolts.
Diff seals in house. Ordered parts for an oil change, I’m tired of the nanny reminder on the mfd.
Front wheel bearings and hubs in house, just need the dust caps and caliper bracket bolts.
Diff seals in house. Ordered parts for an oil change, I’m tired of the nanny reminder on the mfd.
- Thread starter
- #37
Started to move over the tpms today. It was a mini adventure.
I did get one out and in the new rim and bubble balanced.
Some learnings: a larger floor jack isn’t as good as a smaller one for breaking the bead. The smaller diameter pressure point is key.
Put on the tpms sensor before mounting the tire, an LT tire is much harder to flex then a P tire
I included some pics of my home made bubble balancer, which was about $20 in bolts and bubbles.
I did get one out and in the new rim and bubble balanced.
Some learnings: a larger floor jack isn’t as good as a smaller one for breaking the bead. The smaller diameter pressure point is key.
Put on the tpms sensor before mounting the tire, an LT tire is much harder to flex then a P tire
I included some pics of my home made bubble balancer, which was about $20 in bolts and bubbles.
- Thread starter
- #38
A closeup before weights added.
Let us know how that works out with the rest of your lighting upgrades.
I find that the LEDs in the fog position make a huge difference.
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- #40
@TeCKis300 I will. I wanted to put them in today but spent an extra hour relearning how to change engine oil.
Glad I did it myself so I could fix all the mistakes made my others. There where two washers on the drain pan plug from previous changes, and the plastic filter housing had previously been chipped off with an air hammer, it was also torqued wayyyyy too tight. So was the filter plug.
New metal filter housing, new TRD filter, and 7.5 quarts of Valvoline 0-20w high mile full syn implanted. Won't have to fiddle with this for another year.
Glad I did it myself so I could fix all the mistakes made my others. There where two washers on the drain pan plug from previous changes, and the plastic filter housing had previously been chipped off with an air hammer, it was also torqued wayyyyy too tight. So was the filter plug.
New metal filter housing, new TRD filter, and 7.5 quarts of Valvoline 0-20w high mile full syn implanted. Won't have to fiddle with this for another year.
