Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (3 Viewers)

[grinchy]

Here's the Right Rear (2nd row door) DSP (5 in the map out above).

Basically I orphan the 2nd input (it isn't used in this DSP). Then the input is run thru a splitter, an eq (flat for now), a crossover (at 300 for now). The low goes thru high pass to drop the below 80hz, then hits the bass expander, a delay (none for now), past the on board potentiometer, and out to the woofer. the high isn't processed further, just a delay (none for now), the pot, and out to the Tweeter and mid.

The other channel is passed unmolested out for waterfall to the next DSP

Looks like posting .zip and sigma studio files is a no go, but if anyone else wants to play with this drop me a pm and I can send along.

Here's the Center and Sub DSP

DSP 1 thru 4 are pretty much just like DSP 5. It's copy paste time.

 

[grinchy]

I am toying with changing the waterfall so I can pass stereo around and use the spatializers. I'll probably run with this setup initially and if I think the spatializers will improve can try that later.

 

[grinchy]

Alpine PXE-8505s

Heres a newly released drop in replacement Amplifier. Full dsp. Center channel and 12 total outputs. 8 amplified channels. ready to roll with just an additional four channel amp.

$700 is more than home brew but this will certainly be easier to configure and control.

 

[grinchy]

I think I'm going with this plan. I have also gotten a powered splitter, so I can run in -> 4 boards (3 outputs each) and do it that way. It uses two less DSPs which is probably better, but the overall space doesn't decrease as the powered splitter takes it up.
I have all the parts incoming, but think I'll have too many short RCA and not enough mid-length, guess we'll find out when they get here and I can mock it up.

 

[grinchy]

86280-0W190

 

[grinchy]

From the FSM - has impedence test values

Audio

Front #1 - WFL+ P 10, WFL- V 8 (2 ohm) (F4)
Front #2 #3 - FL+ W 2, FL- B 6 (6 ohm) (F31)
Rear Set - RL+ W 3, RL- B 9 (6 ohm) (F31)
Rear #3 - RL+ B 4, RL- Y 10 (6 ohm) (F3)
Rear Header - LH+ W 2, LH- B 7 (6 ohm) (F4)

Front #1 - WFR+ LG 5, WFR- L 11 (2 ohm) (F4)
Front #2 #3 - FR+ W 8, FR- B 7 (6 ohm) (F31)
Rear Set - RR+ W 4, RR- B 10 (6 ohm) (F31)
Rear #3 - RR+ R 1, RR- W 5 (6 ohm) (F3)
Rear Header - RH+ W 1, RH- B 6 (6 ohm) (F4)

Center (Front #4) - C+ W 3, C- B 9 (6 ohm) (F3)
Sub - WF1+ W 1, WF1- B 6 (8 ohm) (F3)

I don't see any particularly hard to drive loads here . . .

 

[grinchy]

Subwoofer is pins 1 and 6 of F3

 

[grinchy]

 

[grinchy]

I think all the parts are in. After fighting with the USBi driver on my Mac/Parallels Win 10 setup for a few hours I have succeeded in programming the 1st board. The programming itself took about three minutes to follow the steps for the first time . . .

I've got all 6 DSP configs ready to roll in their basic 'fail safe' setup - time delays, generic filters, flat crossovers, no gain etc.

The DSPs are approx 2x2x1. Tiny for the power, but even at this size I am intensely worried about space for all 6 plus the 3 amps. This pic shows the daughter card. The DSP is the same size, and underneath. Pretty cool OOTB setup for OTS parts. It could be a lot smaller if I knew more about ordering the 2x10 pin master connectors on the DSP, which I could solder the output wires together or to RCAs directly.


*Edit - sorry, the way they stack the daughterboard is underneath, so you can see the top of the DSP board here

 

[grinchy]

All boards programmed. It took longer to assemble the daughter cards and boards together than to do the programming.

Wondom is the oem on these boards, with Dayton Audio doing a close derivative design. The newer Wondom series has the ICP3 (instead of ICP1 which Dayton has white labeled) as a programmer. It has a bluetooth chip with basic app control for things like the low pass and high pass by channel pairs, and volumes, gains. doesn't have an equalizer . . . yet. I expect one will show up soon. In preparation for the ICP1 BLE to get enabled, or if Dayton will answer email on cross compatibility with the ICP3, I have changed my DSP5 board to sit first in the chain and pass L and R, the idea being it could be used to remotely control the entire DSP set characteristics in a gross way (total gain primarily).

I also plan to have a passive 'volume' knob at the inputs, but more options is more better.

All that's left is pulling the seat, getting it all to fit, and soldering up the plugs on the speaker wires.

 

[grinchy]

Here’s how to put the nav in diagnostic mode.

when you are there is you see this it is bad

 

[grinchy]

I messed around with the settings and eventually did a memory clear. The dsp amp just disappeared. Which I think is pretty bad.
The amp is basically not communicating on the lan at all, not even a dtc of which it has several.

 

[grinchy]

So I pulled the seat and did voltage check on the 30amp power and 7.5 amp acc circuits. Both were a ok.

 

[grinchy]

In the second pic In last post I had cut the carpet a bit more in preparation to pull and amp. If you use the fsm it is called the stereo component amplifier.
There are just three 10mm bolts. Two on the console side and one on the door side. The door side has some forming plastic near the jamb, you can fit a 1/4” socket wrench and a long socket into this for the bolt. You can see through a slit by the door side front leg bolt.
Comes out pretty easy if you are willing to cut the carpet.

looks like there will be plenty of room for the three micro amps and the crossovers, as well asthe cabling. Space goes fast though so we’ll have to see.

 

[grinchy]

The stereo component amplifier is 5 wide by 14.25 long by 2 high.

 

[grinchy]

Made a frame to mount the amps too. Reused the factory amp brackets and bent up some random metal channel to match.

 

[grinchy]

One minor error on F31 mapping above. F31 not F3 for the rear woofer (2nd row)
D Rear #3 - RR+ R 1, RR- W 5 (6 ohm) (F31) (low) purple
. Here's a better shot with all the wires labeled for F3.


I have 7 pairs wired and only 5 to go. Once I got it moving it's about 4 minutes a pair, so the whole thing would take an hour if there wasn't kids, fetching dinner, putting on movie night, and then bedtime.

I hope to finish speaker wiring later tonight and maybe power up this weekend.

 

[grinchy]

Dayton audio has answered the query about how much power each of the DSPs can handle on the RCA channels. 2V. So the 10V splitter/power driver I have is definitely a no go. That means configuration 1 with six DSPs is on. I have a line driver which I can use to set input voltage instead.

 

[grinchy]

About three hours into the wiring. I am reminded how much a quality crimper helps. Have all the stub out wiring done on the amps, all the speaker harnesses on. Relay on the acc wire for the USB ports etc. will be doing mockup and audio test as soon as I solve the power and ground.

 

[04UZJ100]

Those pictures are giving me anxiety.