The Few, the Proud, Those with Sub Tanks (1 Viewer)

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I hope to install a sub tank. So far, all I have is the dual filler neck and a couple extra switches. For those lucky few who have everything, what set up are you using to transfer fuel from the sub to the main tank (switch,wiring,pump, etc)? I'm still in the idea phase, so any help would be greatly appreciated. :)
 
Bought the switch from Slee, only has a gfew left.

Got Georges ECU and built a harness using Georges write-up and Kevin (Boston Manglers) write-up. Kevin had the schematic for the whole harness.

Bought the tank along with the stock transfer pump. Both the write-ups have different setups
 
My setup is very similar to Boston Mangler's w/ George's switch and OEM sub-tank switch from Slee.
Transfer pump is an electric in-line pump from Napa that, so far, has worked great and is cheap enough to have and extra in the parts drawer.

Let me know if you have any detail questions as I know from experience that those pop up here and there.

Good luck.

Jeb
 
Where did you find the dual filler neck? I've heard that's the real long-pole.
 
My setup is very similar to Boston Mangler's w/ George's switch and OEM sub-tank switch from Slee.
Transfer pump is an electric in-line pump from Napa that, so far, has worked great and is cheap enough to have and extra in the parts drawer.

Let me know if you have any detail questions as I know from experience that those pop up here and there.

Good luck.

Jeb


Jeb-Could you post up a part number for this pump?

Alia176 has a slick pump he got at Carquest-it comes with a check valve-I'll keep bugging him for that part #.
 
This may be a dumb question, but can you use the fuel pump in an OEM tank?
 
Where did you find the dual filler neck? I've heard that's the real long-pole.

Mine came from man-a-fre, it is a later 80 model series so I needed longer pieces of fill hose, but it works fine.

Jeb-Could you post up a part number for this pump?


Napa Part #P74019 but if you get on the site, it shows a different pump. Mine looks like this:
pump.jpg
 
Originally posted by Jenny Cruiser
This may be a dumb question, but can you use the fuel pump in an OEM tank?

If you are willing to do a little work this can be done. I have a 44 gallon aux. tank. I just cut a hole in the top, made a flange the same as the stock one, and welded it on. In this particuler tank the stock fuel pump mounting bracket works without modification. The low fuel sensor should be lowered and I changed the length of the float arm to more realistically reflect the fuel level. Since both stock pumps have check valves built in, only the returns need to be switched when switching tanks/pumps. I have it wired up so when a tank is selected, the gauge that is in that tank is also selected. In my case I like to run off the aux. tank until almost empty. This eliminates the weight from behing the rear axle first so the cruiser is more balanced. It is nice to have a redundant complete system also. If I put a rock through a tank or have a pump failure I can just switch tanks/pumps and continue on.
Disclaimer: A person should know what they are doing before welding on a fuel tank.

Bill
 
If you are willing to do a little work this can be done. I have a 44 gallon aux. tank. I just cut a hole in the top, made a flange the same as the stock one, and welded it on. In this particuler tank the stock fuel pump mounting bracket works without modification. The low fuel sensor should be lowered and I changed the length of the float arm to more realistically reflect the fuel level. Since both stock pumps have check valves built in, only the returns need to be switched when switching tanks/pumps. I have it wired up so when a tank is selected, the gauge that is in that tank is also selected. In my case I like to run off the aux. tank until almost empty. This eliminates the weight from behing the rear axle first so the cruiser is more balanced. It is nice to have a redundant complete system also. If I put a rock through a tank or have a pump failure I can just switch tanks/pumps and continue on.
Disclaimer: A person should know what they are doing before welding on a fuel tank.


Bill

:eek:
I am humbled.
 
Oh, that's just the tip of his iceberg....;)
 
Yea, yea. We all know you are in a class ALL your own Dan.

No, no, no. I was referring to Bill (photoman). He is a bad-ass fabricator and builder of cool trinkets.
 
Mine came from man-a-fre, it is a later 80 model series so I needed longer pieces of fill hose, but it works fine.

They don't have them any more :crybaby:
 
Why not set them up as seperate tanks. That is how the diesels are, they do not transfer. You select which tank to run off.
 
No, no, no. I was referring to Bill (photoman). He is a bad-ass fabricator and builder of cool trinkets.

Sorry Dan, I thought you were referring to the intricacy of your sub-tank setup, which BTW, I borrowed a great deal from. Thanks.

They don't have them any more :crybaby:

Sorry, did you check with SOR? For some reason I thought they had the fill necks at one point in time.

Why not set them up as seperate tanks. That is how the diesels are, they do not transfer. You select which tank to run off.

I looked into that option but my :banana: skills only stretch so far.
Seemed more expensive and complicated than I needed.
Maybe I am wrong.
 
Why not set them up as seperate tanks. That is how the diesels are, they do not transfer. You select which tank to run off.

That's how Photoman set his up. Sounds like the way to go.
 
If you are willing to do a little work this can be done. I have a 44 gallon aux. tank. I just cut a hole in the top, made a flange the same as the stock one, and welded it on. In this particuler tank the stock fuel pump mounting bracket works without modification. The low fuel sensor should be lowered and I changed the length of the float arm to more realistically reflect the fuel level. Since both stock pumps have check valves built in, only the returns need to be switched when switching tanks/pumps. I have it wired up so when a tank is selected, the gauge that is in that tank is also selected. In my case I like to run off the aux. tank until almost empty. This eliminates the weight from behing the rear axle first so the cruiser is more balanced. It is nice to have a redundant complete system also. If I put a rock through a tank or have a pump failure I can just switch tanks/pumps and continue on.
Disclaimer: A person should know what they are doing before welding on a fuel tank.

Bill


My subtank (an old MAF Aussie 25 gal tank) has a parallel fuel system. It uses a circuit that; switches the low fuel and fuel level sensors to the tank selected from the dash control. There are parallel fuel lines (different colors) and a switched fuel valve mounted on the DS fender. A Mallory dual in-out HD racing fuel filter is mounted inside the DS frame rail - easy to get to and change.

I have mixed feelings about this set up. It is nice to have a redundant fuel system if one fails. It is a little more complicated than it needs to be - a transfer set up is much simpler. I do like to have the low fuel light and fuel level stuf switched when I select a different tank. I have been having problems blowing gauge fuses the last few days, and suspect that this system amy be rsponsible for a short. There is a long painful process of circuit continuity testing waiting in my driveway...
 

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